1995 Disco 5 speed manual learning curve
- Thread starter joeblack5
- Start date
Thanks discoclay, read you article about the electric power steering pump.
Mine is leaking , or something leaking in that area. As soon as my plates are in I will take it to the carwash and see if I can rid of some of the oil and grease.
Here is a better picture of the headlight protector..
Mine is leaking , or something leaking in that area. As soon as my plates are in I will take it to the carwash and see if I can rid of some of the oil and grease.
Here is a better picture of the headlight protector..
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Unfortunately, the normal leaker is the lower seal on the steering box itself :-(
Though the reservoir can leak as well as the high pressure line coming out of the pump [IME]. One other leaker is (are) the O-rings on the lines going into the steering box... those things get destroyed!
Though the reservoir can leak as well as the high pressure line coming out of the pump [IME]. One other leaker is (are) the O-rings on the lines going into the steering box... those things get destroyed!
Finally, success.. most often the car did not want to start ,crank ,crank, crank, some sputtering. Gasoline smell everywhere..Then let it sit for a while and sometimes it fired up and ran fine..
First I suspected fuel pressure, so now I made a gauge.. and guess what , a nice solid 30psi. No leak down in twenty minutes..
So then the temp sensor, fired up after disconnect but the sensor tests good.. haha, fooled again.. checked for spark and it seemed weak to me.. sometimes inconsistent.. i dug a bit further and notices that when i operated the distributor by hand ( play in the centrifugal advance) in front of the reluctor sensor that when i pushed towards the sensor i had spark and when i pushed the distributor shaft play away from the sensor i had no spark.. the gap between the teeth and the sensor was about 0.040",...1mm.. reduced that to 0.5mm. and.....repeatable start even with a bad battery and very slow crank.... Yes, I am happy..
Wel now it is running I tested and pulled the vacuum tube to the fuel pressure regulator, and indeed it went up to 40psi.. good progress.
No I can move on to the steering pump, finalize the "new" exhaust pipe and the next section of the rotted floor.
First I suspected fuel pressure, so now I made a gauge.. and guess what , a nice solid 30psi. No leak down in twenty minutes..
So then the temp sensor, fired up after disconnect but the sensor tests good.. haha, fooled again.. checked for spark and it seemed weak to me.. sometimes inconsistent.. i dug a bit further and notices that when i operated the distributor by hand ( play in the centrifugal advance) in front of the reluctor sensor that when i pushed towards the sensor i had spark and when i pushed the distributor shaft play away from the sensor i had no spark.. the gap between the teeth and the sensor was about 0.040",...1mm.. reduced that to 0.5mm. and.....repeatable start even with a bad battery and very slow crank.... Yes, I am happy..
Wel now it is running I tested and pulled the vacuum tube to the fuel pressure regulator, and indeed it went up to 40psi.. good progress.
No I can move on to the steering pump, finalize the "new" exhaust pipe and the next section of the rotted floor.
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I have a 96 D1 that when I purchased it the power steering fluid leaked out amazingly fast. I replaced all the hoses. I believe the reservoir connections were the worst due to being dried out and very compressed under the clamp. That helped a lot but I still had a leak. I wasn’t driving it much as it needed a lot of other mechanical work. I completed all the other mechanical work and started driving it more. It wasn’t long before it was leaking excessively again. The lower seal on the pump completely failed one day. New power steering gearbox solved that and now it is completely leak free. The power steering pump, 156,000 miles, doesn’t leak at all.
If you decide to tackle the steering gearbox I recommend a Defender guy that rebuilds them and is very knowledgeable about how to do it, much more than I would expect a commercial rebuilder.. He has done a great many for Defender folks (same gearbox) and I have only heard praise.
Thank Terry,
The power steering reservoir is empty, just from sitting..it is very oily and dirty around steering box. As soon as I have my plates( already waiting 6 wks) then I will go to.car wash and see if I can clean it up to get a good view.
Today I welded a " rear exhaust pipe"
Still have to make the mounts.
The power steering reservoir is empty, just from sitting..it is very oily and dirty around steering box. As soon as I have my plates( already waiting 6 wks) then I will go to.car wash and see if I can clean it up to get a good view.
Today I welded a " rear exhaust pipe"
Still have to make the mounts.
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I have a minor leak in another D1 that I can tell is from the lower steering gearbox seal. I have heard from credible sources this stuff works really well. When you have ruled out other leaks, maybe give this a try. I just purchased a bottle but haven’t tried it yet.
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I had a worn out distributor as well. The slop was **substantial**. The advance was toast as well.
That pressure buildup due to the biasing valves will likely be far too much psi to resolve the lower seal leak without rebuilding the box:-/
That pressure buildup due to the biasing valves will likely be far too much psi to resolve the lower seal leak without rebuilding the box:-(
That was my thought but the Defender guys report using this stuff and years later still no leaks from that seal. I have never thought much of any leak sealer product but after years of positive feedback from the Defender crowd, for $12 I am going to give it a try. As soon as I get some carb cleaner I’m going to clean off the box throughly so I can see if it actually stops the leak.
Here is a post discussing it. There are more like it on other rover forums but I think this post is from a forum run by the same people that run this one.
What Steering Box to Buy?
I need to replace my steering box. The leaks are getting bag enough where it is a steady drip when parked out of the input seal and the sector shaft seal. I've never replaced any seals in a steering box and I'm not ruling out that as an option. In the past I've had really bad luck with...
nas-row.com
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It can't hurt your driveway any more than it already is :-D I just know from my own experience that no manner of "stop leak" worked on my steering box.. May it was just *extra* shot 
Thanks folks, went to the manual carwash and washed most of the gunk of the steering box and below.
Used a bottle of leak stop but it runs out pretty quick. That is 10 to 20 miles. Sometimes very fast and sometimes a little slower. It is the upper seal at the shaft that goes to the steering wheel.
Found a couple of articles about changing this seal while the box is in the car but nothing really detailed.
The steering is good, no backlash or noises as long as it has liquid. I can feel no radial play in the input shaft.. the dust cover disk is in place.
I am not familiar enough with how this box works but I assume there is no working pressure on this seal.
Anybody has a link to a good article on replacing the top seal?
Thanks johan
Used a bottle of leak stop but it runs out pretty quick. That is 10 to 20 miles. Sometimes very fast and sometimes a little slower. It is the upper seal at the shaft that goes to the steering wheel.
Found a couple of articles about changing this seal while the box is in the car but nothing really detailed.
The steering is good, no backlash or noises as long as it has liquid. I can feel no radial play in the input shaft.. the dust cover disk is in place.
I am not familiar enough with how this box works but I assume there is no working pressure on this seal.
Anybody has a link to a good article on replacing the top seal?
Thanks johan
I haven't had to change that one.. but it seems like a blessing compared to the lower seal. :-
Here is the parts list and diagram from the jagrover page:
I have a PDF of the shop manual but it's ~1000 pages and not small. Here are a couple [possibly] relevant pages:
Here is the parts list and diagram from the jagrover page:
I have a PDF of the shop manual but it's ~1000 pages and not small. Here are a couple [possibly] relevant pages:
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Thank you for that diagram.. I had to read up again how a power steering box works. It seems that the outside , lower and upper seal only have the static oil pressure from the height difference of the oil reservoir. That explains that over time the reservoir empties out. The other one would be that the oil return line is restricted.. not sure if there is a filter in it.
Thanks, Johan
Thanks, Johan
There is a design problem with this steering box. That lower seal may only have "static" pressure when shiny new.. but after a while the high pressure biasing valve gets worn and fails to seal all the high pressure.. which then blows into that lower chamber and past the seal.
This is the primary reason these boxes leak out the lower seal. And because rebuilding/replacing that biasing valve is a high end endeavor, many rebuild shops don't replace these when they go through the rest of the box.
Ok, I see. looked up the working again but it looks like the lower seal gets the full pressure in one direction of the steering.
Cost of these boxes is thru the roof.
Found an article about jeep jk boxes in defenders..
Those are a dime a dozen..
I will attempt the top seal and study more about the hacks.
Johan
Cost of these boxes is thru the roof.
Found an article about jeep jk boxes in defenders..
Those are a dime a dozen..
I will attempt the top seal and study more about the hacks.
Johan
Please drop that article link here!
I am very interested... a side project I'm working on uses a rover chassis and besides the huge lash in the LT230, the steering box is really the Achilles heel of the whole project.
I am very interested... a side project I'm working on uses a rover chassis and besides the huge lash in the LT230, the steering box is really the Achilles heel of the whole project.
Sorry for the late response, there are no articles strange enough. Only a story .
Spectre Land Rover Defender
Created by the custom shop Himalaya, this Defender is a Land Rover like you've never seen before—complete with a Chevy V-8 and a Jeep steering box.
Headshot of Ben StewartBY BEN STEWARTUPDATED: MAY 30, 2019
Johan
Spectre Land Rover Defender
Created by the custom shop Himalaya, this Defender is a Land Rover like you've never seen before—complete with a Chevy V-8 and a Jeep steering box.
Headshot of Ben StewartBY BEN STEWARTUPDATED: MAY 30, 2019
Johan
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Well started tearing into the input shaft
Removed air filter and MAF, took sparkplug wire of plug.
The aluminum u joint was pretty tight to the aluminum steering shaft.
Had to loosen both u joint at the box and u joint at the fire wall to get enough slop to move the shaft assembly of the steering box.
Used a adjustable wrench in between the steering box and the aluminum u joint to get some prying surface. The input steering shaft has spline is smaller then the diameter so you won't bigger up the dust seal that much.
Then I prayed the dust seal of. It has a thin rubber lip that forms an axial seal with the front of the steering box.
Now have to get the circlip out.
I measured the seal and it appears to be 32x22 mm thickness unknown. Ordered a viton seal 5 mm wide. The thinnest one.
The blue seals I see in the cheap kits seems to be an axial wiper seal although it is sold as radial seal??
Anyhow will try. I hope that although the shaft looks good my thinner seal gets on a slightly different position the where the original seal wore likely a groove in it.
Tbq
If anyone has a seal set and can confirm the input shaft seal dimension that would be great because I can not find it.
Happy thanks giving for the folks in the USA.
Johan
Removed air filter and MAF, took sparkplug wire of plug.
The aluminum u joint was pretty tight to the aluminum steering shaft.
Had to loosen both u joint at the box and u joint at the fire wall to get enough slop to move the shaft assembly of the steering box.
Used a adjustable wrench in between the steering box and the aluminum u joint to get some prying surface. The input steering shaft has spline is smaller then the diameter so you won't bigger up the dust seal that much.
Then I prayed the dust seal of. It has a thin rubber lip that forms an axial seal with the front of the steering box.
Now have to get the circlip out.
I measured the seal and it appears to be 32x22 mm thickness unknown. Ordered a viton seal 5 mm wide. The thinnest one.
The blue seals I see in the cheap kits seems to be an axial wiper seal although it is sold as radial seal??
Anyhow will try. I hope that although the shaft looks good my thinner seal gets on a slightly different position the where the original seal wore likely a groove in it.
Tbq
If anyone has a seal set and can confirm the input shaft seal dimension that would be great because I can not find it.
Happy thanks giving for the folks in the USA.
Johan
