1995 British Racing Green Range Rover 4.0 with 141,800 miles. Old Man Emu shocks and coils (761 fronts, 781 rears.) RockRover sliders and RockRover front diff guard. It has 245/75 Firestone Destination MT’s on steel wheels. The truck also comes with a set of 4 stock alloy wheels with 235/70 Toyo Open County AT’s so you can switch back for street use. I am also including my collection of spare parts, like a serpentine belt, spare transmission ECU, water pump, hoses, relays, crankshaft sensor, oil filters, fuel injectors, spark plugs, etc. You’ve got everything you need to go off-roading the day of purchase.
I purchased this vehicle in October of 2004 from the previous owner who lived in Seattle. Prior to that, it was a California company vehicle so there is no rust or corrosion. During my ownership I’ve maintained it meticulously and ran Mobil1 synthetic fluids in the engine and Amsoil synthetic in the differentials. This truck has been used primarily for camping and offroading, so expect some pin striping. Where it lacks in flash, it makes up for in mechanical ability. I would frequently be in the middle of nowhere, so I made sure this truck was going to get me home again. As such, I often replaced parts before they failed which is why this list is so long.
What I’ve done to it in 4 years:
DieHard Plantinum battery, 2 months old (essentially rebadged Odyssey battery)
Ford Racing high flow fuel injectors
Magnecor 8mm plug wires
Head gaskets replaced at 110,000 miles
Replaced oil pressure sensor
Radiator replaced last year
Replaced front wheel bearings
Replaced mid-muffler. Replaced rear muffler with straight pipe
Replaced heater core o-rings and temperature sensor
Replaced all radiator and cooling hoses
Replaced oil cooler lines
Brembo rotors with Ferodo brake pads
SilBlade wipers
Replaced pressure relief valve o-ring
Replaced water pump
Replaced A/C Trinary switch
Reinforced fuse box circuit board to solve Relay #7 burnout issues
Replaced AC evaporator (that was no fun)
Rear shock relocation brackets to prevent shocks from overextending.
Brake controller with 4 and 7pin trailer wiring.
Auxiliary power outlet in back (used for my Engel).
Wired for Sirius and Garmin V GPS external antennas
The stereo tape deck has been bypassed and hardwired with a ¼” plug for my Sirius satellite radio or iPod.
Issues or what still needs to be done:
Some oxidization on roof and the paint on the hood is getting dull.
The dash is warping on the passenger side. I’ve held down the rest of the warping by using bolts.
The sunroof does not work. The driver’s side rail is broken. However, the sunroof is closed and does not leak.
Headliner is sagging. I’ve always planned on pulling it out and Rhino lining it, but never got a chance.
Passenger side blend motor sticks sometimes on startup, causing it to “click” for a few seconds.
Will need an A/C recharge before next summer. (I replaced the AC compressor with used one, but I foolishly did not replace the o-rings. There is a slight leak coming from there.)
Rear passenger side grab handle is broken.
Price:
This is tough, because there aren't too many P38's set up for offroad use that I can use for price comparison. There are many that say they offroad....but they don't. So I am thinking $3100 is fair? I've got plenty of pictures, so let me know what you want to see.
I purchased this vehicle in October of 2004 from the previous owner who lived in Seattle. Prior to that, it was a California company vehicle so there is no rust or corrosion. During my ownership I’ve maintained it meticulously and ran Mobil1 synthetic fluids in the engine and Amsoil synthetic in the differentials. This truck has been used primarily for camping and offroading, so expect some pin striping. Where it lacks in flash, it makes up for in mechanical ability. I would frequently be in the middle of nowhere, so I made sure this truck was going to get me home again. As such, I often replaced parts before they failed which is why this list is so long.
What I’ve done to it in 4 years:
DieHard Plantinum battery, 2 months old (essentially rebadged Odyssey battery)
Ford Racing high flow fuel injectors
Magnecor 8mm plug wires
Head gaskets replaced at 110,000 miles
Replaced oil pressure sensor
Radiator replaced last year
Replaced front wheel bearings
Replaced mid-muffler. Replaced rear muffler with straight pipe
Replaced heater core o-rings and temperature sensor
Replaced all radiator and cooling hoses
Replaced oil cooler lines
Brembo rotors with Ferodo brake pads
SilBlade wipers
Replaced pressure relief valve o-ring
Replaced water pump
Replaced A/C Trinary switch
Reinforced fuse box circuit board to solve Relay #7 burnout issues
Replaced AC evaporator (that was no fun)
Rear shock relocation brackets to prevent shocks from overextending.
Brake controller with 4 and 7pin trailer wiring.
Auxiliary power outlet in back (used for my Engel).
Wired for Sirius and Garmin V GPS external antennas
The stereo tape deck has been bypassed and hardwired with a ¼” plug for my Sirius satellite radio or iPod.
Issues or what still needs to be done:
Some oxidization on roof and the paint on the hood is getting dull.
The dash is warping on the passenger side. I’ve held down the rest of the warping by using bolts.
The sunroof does not work. The driver’s side rail is broken. However, the sunroof is closed and does not leak.
Headliner is sagging. I’ve always planned on pulling it out and Rhino lining it, but never got a chance.
Passenger side blend motor sticks sometimes on startup, causing it to “click” for a few seconds.
Will need an A/C recharge before next summer. (I replaced the AC compressor with used one, but I foolishly did not replace the o-rings. There is a slight leak coming from there.)
Rear passenger side grab handle is broken.
Price:
This is tough, because there aren't too many P38's set up for offroad use that I can use for price comparison. There are many that say they offroad....but they don't. So I am thinking $3100 is fair? I've got plenty of pictures, so let me know what you want to see.
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