1996 disco 1. Not turning over. No fuel

[Disoteka]

So I was gifted a 1996 Disco. Been sitting for about four years in a field. First mistake I connected the battery wrong blew the 100 amp fuse. Replaced the fuse. Turns over but doesn’t want to start.
no fuel pressure at the rails and no fuel coming out of the fuel filter line. I disconnected the lead into the pump to see if gas comes out but no gas.

can’t hear the pump noise when turning the key on. I am going to try to take out the pump and bench test it

and pointers. ? Where is the relay. I heard different locations. RHD firewall and front passenger kick panel. I have the hard copy RAVE manual

thanks for your help

 

[LRDONE]

So I was gifted a 1996 Disco. Been sitting for about four years in a field. First mistake I connected the battery wrong blew the 100 amp fuse. Replaced the fuse. Turns over but doesn’t want to start.
no fuel pressure at the rails and no fuel coming out of the fuel filter line. I disconnected the lead into the pump to see if gas comes out but no gas.

can’t hear the pump noise when turning the key on. I am going to try to take out the pump and bench test it

and pointers. ? Where is the relay. I heard different locations. RHD firewall and front passenger kick panel. I have the hard copy RAVE manual

thanks for your help

As long as it isn't an immobilizer problem, Check for 12v at the fuel pump connector when you cycle the key on. The pump primes when the key is cycled, unless you have long test leads you'll need a hand having someone cycle the key because it only runs for a few seconds. If you don't have power at the pump, move backward through the system in this order. Fuel inertia switch, relay, fuse. Just go until you find power and check for continuity between each component.

Fuel inertia switch is located on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay. Follow that wire to the relay which isn't far from the inertia switch on the passenger side engine bay. And lastly, the fuse lives in the fuse panel.

I don't have a specific wiring diagram for a 96 but I have to believe it's close enough to my 98 to use this information.

 

[Gordo]

Try running battery power to the white and purple wire at the pump, then u will know if it works assuming the ground is good. Is there a red light on in the center of the instrument panel? If so u have an immobilizer issue to sort out. I can’t recall if mine turned over when immobilized or not but it definitely wouldn’t start.

 

[Disoteka]

As long as it isn't an immobilizer problem, Check for 12v at the fuel pump connector when you cycle the key on. The pump primes when the key is cycled, unless you have long test leads you'll need a hand having someone cycle the key because it only runs for a few seconds. If you don't have power at the pump, move backward through the system in this order. Fuel inertia switch, relay, fuse. Just go until you find power and check for continuity between each component.

Fuel inertia switch is located on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay. Follow that wire to the relay which isn't far from the inertia switch on the passenger side engine bay. And lastly, the fuse lives in the fuse panel.

I don't have a specific wiring diagram for a 96 but I have to believe it's close enough to my 98 to use this information.

Thanks a bunch. Just bought a multimeter on prime days.

 

[kris812]

So you being NEW to disco's I'm assuming you aren't aware of the immobilizer or what it even is. I'll keep it REALLY simple and just say you MUST ALWAYS unlock the vehicle with the alarm FOB to be able to start it.. You won't get fuel or crank without it!

Without a FOB, there are codes you can type into the drivers door key by unlocking and locking the key. The master code for our USD discos is either 1515 or 5151, took me a couple try's until I got one of those to work and wasn't sure which code or way to start first left or right. I think the dash light blinked or did something and then I started it really QUICKLY.. You must start it after the code very quickly, but after this procedure you can start it and drive it normally.. I later got FOBs programmed as I think after a battery swap this happened again.

Otherwise like others have said, check for voltage at the pump inspection panel. I'll BET my money that the fuel feed tubes and wires inside the fuel pump assy are broken and toasted. Lastly I'll also bet that the fuel tank fill VENT tube is also cracked after sitting that long. As me how I know; having changed it and pumps 3 freaking times now (don't let your Rover sit on empty gas tanks!). I also buy the Cheap Ebay fuel pump assembly's that work fine, and carry an old spare working motor just in case!

 

[Disoteka]

Took out the fuel pump you were right tubes are toast. What’s a good replacement. Don’t want to spend 500 bucks on a pump.

 

[discostew]

Fuel Injection Corp

fuelinjectioncorp.com

These guys will sell you a pump with the tube and a couple clamps.pretty sure this is the one you need.

 

[Blueboy]

Atlantic British has one for $250.00
ESR3926
Also check RockAuto.

 

[terryjm1]

Last one (complete assembly) I purchased was from Lucky 8. I only have about 2000 miles on it but so far no issues. . If you do a search of this forum I am sure there is a post discussing replacing just the internal pump part or the whole assembly. There is a GM part number for just the internal pump. However, in mine, it sat for years building up a lot of corrosion and I needed the whole assembly.

 

[Blueboy]

Last one (complete assembly) I purchased was from Lucky 8. I only have about 2000 miles on it but so far no issues. . If you do a search of this forum I am sure there is a post discussing replacing just the internal pump part or the whole assembly. There is a GM part number for just the internal pump. However, in mine, it sat for years building up a lot of corrosion and I needed the whole assembly.

And the whole assembly is much easier to install!
Not sure who told me or if I read it somewhere, I always keep gas level above 1/4 tank to keep the pump cool.

 

[kris812]

How about 50$ for an Assy?? They're ALL just plastic tubes and china motors after all..

Fuel Pump for Land Rover Discovery 3.9L 4.0L for Range Rover 3.9L 4.2L ESR3926 | eBay

<li> </li> <li> √Fuel pump related reference model</li> <li> 1996-1999 Land Rover Discovery V8 4.0L 1994-1995 Land Rover Discovery V8 3.9L 1994-1995 Land Rover Range Rover V8 3.9L 1994-1995 Land Rover Range Rover V8 4.2L</li> <li> </li> <li> √Causes of fuel pump failure Fuel pumps...

www.ebay.com

I've used these and they work fine.. Only downside is reusing the ferels on the lines if it doesn't come with them..

Like I already said, replaced these assy and vent tubes 3 times already! FYI, the Tank must be dropped to change the 12AN fill vent tube.

IF YOUR ROVER SITS FOR LONG, MAKE SURE IT SITS ON A FULL TANK TO AVOID THIS!!

 

[Tugela]

Minor addition at this point in the conversation: when shopping for fuel pumps make sure to buy the non-AEL version. In 1997 Land Rover started swiching the Disco fuel system to an AEL (advanced evap loss) design. Needless to say, the newer version is not compatible with the older one, so a pump for a 1998 D1 will not work on a 1996 D1. Retailers that don't specialize in Rover parts may not understand this distinction. Another good reason to buy from Lucky 8, Rovers North, Atlantic British, or other reputable specialists.

Something else to consider: I bought a used fuel pump from @WILL.TILLERY (whose number you should keep on speed dial) to keep on hand as a trail spare.

 

[discostew]

I just did one on a GEMS P38. I used a different one. I think it was a direct replacement for a BMW 3 series or something. I just looked for one rated at 40psi and went with that. It was about 125 if I recall.
The connector is different on a lot of pumps. But you can buy the pigtail, the one I got came with it

 

[rover4x4]

So you being NEW to disco's I'm assuming you aren't aware of the immobilizer or what it even is. I'll keep it REALLY simple and just say you MUST ALWAYS unlock the vehicle with the alarm FOB to be able to start it.. You won't get fuel or crank without it!

Without a FOB, there are codes you can type into the drivers door key by unlocking and locking the key. The master code for our USD discos is either 1515 or 5151, took me a couple try's until I got one of those to work and wasn't sure which code or way to start first left or right. I think the dash light blinked or did something and then I started it really QUICKLY.. You must start it after the code very quickly, but after this procedure you can start it and drive it normally.. I later got FOBs programmed as I think after a battery swap this happened again.

Otherwise like others have said, check for voltage at the pump inspection panel. I'll BET my money that the fuel feed tubes and wires inside the fuel pump assy are broken and toasted. Lastly I'll also bet that the fuel tank fill VENT tube is also cracked after sitting that long. As me how I know; having changed it and pumps 3 freaking times now (don't let your Rover sit on empty gas tanks!). I also buy the Cheap Ebay fuel pump assembly's that work fine, and carry an old spare working motor just in case!

Does anyone care to elaborate on these key fob codes? I have a 96 SD thats giving trouble when starting. its a crapshoot, shop said it was related to the inertia switch, fuel pump seems to be getting power...

 

[boxster]

Does anyone care to elaborate on these key fob codes? I have a 96 SD thats giving trouble when starting. its a crapshoot, shop said it was related to the inertia switch, fuel pump seems to be getting power...

I believe codes are for Emergency Key Access
Maybe take it to a shop that can pin point the root cause. Sounds like a security alarm system fault.

 

[kris812]

The codes allow you to start and drive your Rover without a key FOB to disarm the alarm. EKA as boxster said.
The RED dash light is the tell-tell sign of alarm issues.
NO FOB, MUST use EKA on battery swaps etc.
Each truck has its own EKA code, (didn't work on mine) but the 1515 or 5151 is the Dealer code as far as I know.