1998 Disco cant get fuel in tank.

[jimjet]

i have been here and asked before.
my problem has gotten worse i cant get fuel into the tank.
one of guys/gals sent me a technical bulletin that addressed a trickle valve? in the filler neck.
i have had this to land rover 3 times while still under waranty for this snag.they replaced the pump sending unit twice trying to tell me the tank was full when i try to fuel it after driving 300 miles.
they know of no technical bulletin.
if anyone has info i would appreciate it.
also has anyone gotten around this by removing the valve or modifiying in some way.

jim

 

[El_Cid_2000]

I'm still having filling up issues as well in my 97'. It takes me about 10 minutes to "fill up" my tank with about 15.5 gallons. No matter how long I run a tank of gas to empty I can only put those 15ish gallons in. Also, my gas needle only goes to a touch above 3/4 of a tank. On average I get about 230 miles out of that "full" tank. My owners manual indicates that I should fill up with 24.3 or .4 gallons but I've never been anywhere close to that. Any ideas?

Thanks, and sorry for the partial hijack,
Michael

 

[Bannon88]

Jim,


I had the same exact problem. When I went to the dealer they fix the problem.
I got out the invoice sheet and it states.

Fuel system campaign
Perform fuel system campaign
B217 Hydro carbon fuel leak recall
Install split ting on filler neck

Part number.... WLO000010...............Retaining ring


Before this service it would take forever to fill the tank. Now I have and haven't had any fuel filling problems. I don't know if this will fix your Disco, but it should have been done.

 

[jimjet]

michael
your having the sender / fuel pump problems.which i think is separate from the fillup issue.
L.R. replaced my pump sender twice telling me my truck was full when it was realy empty.

there is as i said a T.B. related to a trickle valve that seems to control the fuel going into tank.

some one here has the info.

jim

 

[jimjet]

Brian
i THINK the fuel campaign your referenceing was for the filler neck comming away from the body spilling fuel behind body panel.i am not realy sure though.
according to my documents i have had that mod/campaign done.
the T.B. that was sent to me was for 2003 for a trickle valve I THINK??

thanks guys

jim

 

[stevenr]

I don't have an answer for you, but I can relate. I have found that some gas stations work better than others, I have found that the biggest thing is to not get so low on fuel ie: running on fumes, before fillup. I have an do on occasion get low enough to fit 23 gallons of gas, but I know that I am running the risk of only being able to put $5 before it's spewing out and not letting anymore in.

Sorry, no help, but thought I'd share.

-Steven

 

[jimjet]

steven
it gets worse.
thats how it started for me .on empty it would not take fuel.put in 5 bucks go for a drive , back to station and its ok.i lived with that for a while.

now it wont take fuel at any point 3/4 1/2 tank does not matter.

i found the bulletin at alldata tec190403 but i cant get the nitty gritty without paying 24 bucks.
it was sent to me from a member last time i asked.

jim

 

[Bannon88]

I'll email Chris in STL, he usually has all the tech bulletins.

 

[jimjet]

Brian
Thank you very much.

jim

 

[Ray Yates]

If I remember correctly, there is a TSB out on this problem involving the trickle valve, besides the one on the filler neck issue. The LR part number for the fix is: VUB502530. (This replaces just the valve, fittings and hoses, rather than the whole fuel filler neck. Around $40, as quoted to me by the dealership here in Monterey, CA.) I had a similar problem, and had resigned myself to tearing into the fuel system to replace the valve. On a hunch, though, I first poured an enitire bottle of LR's own fuel system conditioner into the tank through the vent port at the top of the neck, figuring this might clean out any residue making the valve stick. ( It's the little opening you see when you remove the cap to fuel up.) It worked! No more premature shut off at the pump, at least for the last few months. Your milage may vary (pun intended), but this may be worth a try. Probably any fuel system cleaner would work (SeaFoam?); I just happened to have a bottle of the Official stuff around.
It's also true, though, that there are pumps and there are pumps. I've noticed more issues with the type utilizing the telescoping rubber shroud around the filler spout than the ones with just a straight spout and gasket. It also seems to help if you point the spout straight down the filler neck when you start to pump.

Ray

 

[jimjet]

thanks ray
i wii give it a try
jim

 

[Rocky]

i have been here and asked before.
my problem has gotten worse i cant get fuel into the tank.
one of guys/gals sent me a technical bulletin that addressed a trickle valve? in the filler neck.
i have had this to land rover 3 times while still under waranty for this snag.they replaced the pump sending unit twice trying to tell me the tank was full when i try to fuel it after driving 300 miles.
they know of no technical bulletin.
if anyone has info i would appreciate it.
also has anyone gotten around this by removing the valve or modifiying in some way.

jim

Is your truck involved the the D1 tank recall? Maybe a chance to rebuild the entire assembly for free

 

[ChrismonDA]

I have a 1998 and noticed escpecially on hot days if the vehicle has been sitting in direct sunlight my vehicle will not let me put in more than a couple gallons at a time. I will then wait till later in the day after the vehicle has been in the shade and fill up without problems. I do not know if this could be related to the TSB noted in the earlier post.

 

[Errant]

Mine only does it when I'm in a hurry! Seriously though, it seems to only happen when the level is really low. And men are always trying to help out "here little girl, lemme show you how it's done." It's incredibly frustrating.

 

[jimjet]

hey guys and gals
thanks for all the input.

im traveling on business at this moment.
when i return i will try the fuel treatment down the breather tube as posted above.

i have seen and read the T.B. and it definately relates to my / our problem.

i want L.R. to cover it as they charged my warranty company for two sender / pump units
and insisted i had a full tank when trying to fill up.although i just returned from a long road trip.
total B.S.
they cant seem to find the T.B. but alldata.com has it.
if it was up to me i would go with marine fuel line and throw away the trickle valve.

jim

 

[Chris-St Louis]

Brian and Jim...

Sorry, I was out of town for a 4 day weekend. Go tyour Email, Here is the TSB.

No: 19/04/03/NAS
Ref:Issue: 1
Date: 12/05/03


Trickle Valve Replacement Procedure

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:

Discovery (LT) All

SITUATION:

MIL ILLUMINATION OR DIFFICULTY FILLING FUEL TANK

The customer may complain of difficulty adding fuel to the tank due to the fuel delivery cut off. The MIL may also be illuminated because of Diagnostic Module Test Leakage (DMTL) pressure leakage can result in fault codes P0455 or P0446 logged. The cause of these events may be a faulty or leaking trickle valve. The trickle valve has not previously been available for service repairs.

RESOLUTION:

INSPECT AND IF INDICATED REPLACE TRICKLE VALVE

Should a customer complain of the premature shut-off symptom or MIL illumination with the P0455/P0446 fault codes, follow the leak test procedure below and if indicated replace the trickle valve.

PARTS INFORMATION:

VUB502530 Trickle valve Kit Qty 1

AS400 WARRANTY CLAIMS (CANADA ONLY)

17.90.02/01 Time 0.70 hrs.
Perform Evaporative Leak Test

19.55.31 Time 0.70 hrs.
Install trickle valve

17.90.89/26 Time 0.20 hrs
Perform TestBook/T4 DMTL test

FAULT CODE: Y

DDW WARRANTY CLAIMS:







DDW requires the use of causal part numbers. Labor only claims must show the causal part number with a quantity of zero.

Normal warranty policy and procedures apply.
Material allowance is included in labor operation.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

LEAK TEST

NOTE: Applying a soapy solution to the trickle valve when the system is pressurized may assist with the diagnosis and confirm the source of the leak.

1. Using service tool LRA-19-005A (Evaporative Emissions System Tester) establish if the leak is coming from around the anti-trickle valve.

2. If the leak is coming from the anti-trickle valve, refer to the replacement procedure.

3. If the leak is not coming from around the anti-trickle valve then further investigation will be required. This repair procedure does not apply.


REPLACEMENT OF ANTI-TRICKLE LEAK

1. Refer to RAVE section 19.55.07 and remove the fuel filler tube.








2. Remove the two hose clamps securing the vent pipes to the trickle valve. (A in Figure 1)

CAUTION: Removal of the locking screw and careful attention to the clockwise release of the trickle valve nut are required to avoid damage to the filler neck assembly.

3. Remove the trickle valve M4 locking screw. (B in Figure 1)

4. Unscrew the M22 nut clockwise and remove the trickle valve.








NOTE: Figure 2 illustrates the correct orientation of the trickle valve. The vent pipes must be angled at approximately 45?to the center of the fuel filler tube.

5. Install the new trickle valve and O-ring.

6. Tighten the nut to 3 to 4 Nm (2.2 to 2.9 lbf.ft).

7. Install the trickle valve locking screw and tighten to 1.5 to 1.8 Nm (1.1 to 1.3 lbf.ft).

8. Install the vent pipes to the trickle valve and secure with the new hose clamps supplied in the kit.

9. Connect TestBook/T4 to the vehicle and load disc Archive 21 or later.

10. Follow the on-screen instructions and select "Diagnostic System".

11. Clear any fault codes.

12. Follow the on-screen instructions and select "Petrol Engine".

13. Follow the on-screen instructions and select "Sub System Test".

14. Follow the on-screen instructions and select "Evaporative Leak" to carry out the DMTL test.

15. After the test is complete check for any fault codes to ensure no further problems exist.