Looking at a 1999 4.0SE with about 130000 miles. Eas has been switched to coils, has other records. Doesn't come with a door lock remote, only keys. What scares me is having the Rover get "super locked" and having to tow it to the closest dealership to unlock it, which is about 2 hours away from me. If it doesn't have a remote, is there any chance of me super locking it by using the key to lock and unlock the doors? Is there anything else that would cause it to super lock. This will be a big factor in whether or not I make an offer on it, which by the way, what would a fair price be?
1999 Range Rover "super lock"
- Thread starter benny
- Start date
A while back I looked into getting my Disco modified to disable the super lock mode. PT Schram, who knows a thing or two, advised me to take my truck to the dealership where they can reprogram the brain to never go into super lock. Granted, my truck is a D1 which has different electronics than a Bosch P38, so things could be different. Call a dealer and see if this is a service they can provide. If it is, then you can try to negotiate for a better price from the seller.
crown14 said:
I thought you could get a DI to superlock if you reprogram the ECU to divide by zero, OH SHI-
you can turn the key to lock in the door twice to the right to superlock it.
I would spend the $200 and get the key. talk the seller down for the cost of the keys. i think you could get screwed without it. The MY1999 and up seems to be less susceptible to loosing the engine ECU and BECM communication sync though. I've never been stuck anywhere with mine because of that issue. I have one working key I keep in my pocket to lock the doors with the push button. I keep the broken key inside to start it. its been working fine for 2 years like that.
The broken keys battery door is stripped out. I cannot get it out to put a new battery in it.
I would spend the $200 and get the key. talk the seller down for the cost of the keys. i think you could get screwed without it. The MY1999 and up seems to be less susceptible to loosing the engine ECU and BECM communication sync though. I've never been stuck anywhere with mine because of that issue. I have one working key I keep in my pocket to lock the doors with the push button. I keep the broken key inside to start it. its been working fine for 2 years like that.
The broken keys battery door is stripped out. I cannot get it out to put a new battery in it.
Couple of years ago I got locked out of my 99 HSE. Sucked cause of the cold rain and all. Only 1 key and no fab. Alarm blaring and wouldn't start. Ripped the door apart and whack the lock pad/box in the door while my buddy was turning the key. It worked. Then I paid the $237 for a new key from rover. By the truck and enjoy
I think its a good idea to program the B.E.C.M. to not superlock . Even if you have all the keys working propperly . If the battery goes dead while its superlocked your screwed . My first question to people who want me to get in a P38 is "what window do you want broken ? "
I need to do this on my 01, I had the settings set to Australian market on my 97 (thank you PT Schram)
If anyone knows how to disable the gearbox shift interlock (fitted to NAS and Japanese market) i would appreciate any info.
If anyone knows how to disable the gearbox shift interlock (fitted to NAS and Japanese market) i would appreciate any info.
Rover Mac said:
Well to answer my own question......
The BECM on my 01 RR P38 has been showing fuse failure 12, 13, 14, and 15. No problem with the fuses, no sunroof, tailgate, interior lights, rear door remote unlock or right side front lights.....
All that was missing was the shift interlock not unlocking.
which of course happened
Checked brake light switch and I had brake lights, BUT the RR was stuck in park
The answer was in the workshop manual, Automatic gearbox section, selector lever assembly.
Under step 4 there is a note
North American and Japanese vehicles are fitted with a gear selector interlock mechanism. To move selector lever from "P", activate interlock solenoid manually with a 3mm screwdriver.
With lever in park on the left side of the lever you can see the solenoid pin , push it in with a screwdriver and you can change gear.:victory:
Unplugging the white solenoid electrical connector did not improve matters,
To remove solenoid undo 4 allen bolts from top of selector mechanism and cut 2 thin black wires to solenoid and remove.
so is that the lock that is supposed to keep it in park unless you press the brake pedal? Hope you don't have kids in it while its running. i can imagine a Jeff Foxworthy moment.