3 Bearing vs 5 Bearing

[61rover]

Back in 1990, I installed a late IIA engine in my '61 Series II to replace the Ford 289 that was in it. I drove it every day for almost 12 years. I parked it a few years ago and then this winter I started a complete restoration. Here is my dilema:

I have a 3 bearing engine from a '59 that would be correct to the '61. I've gone to pretty great lenghts to keep it Series II correct. I'd like to use this engine. Are there any critical parts that are truly NLA? The engine is complete and I have an 8:1 head that is already set up for unleaded. Should I do it? Or should I go with the 5 bearing and strip the emissions to make it look older?

 

[Leslie]

There's another bit of a critical thing here.... not that the 5-bearing would be wrong to use, but let's talk about the earliest 3-bearing versus most of the rest of them......

From the SIIA through the introduction of the 5-main, ie, most of the 2.25's out there are a 3-main engine. But, there was a bit of difference between the earliest II engines and the last of them. While both are 3-mains, the water-pump was different, it fits a bit differently, may very well have interference if the head's going to be changed or has been skimmed, has a bit of a different rear main seal that is prone to leakage.

The '59 engine will definitely be an early one, whereas the original engine in the '61 may have been a 'normal' 3-main instead of one of the last of the early ones.

'Typical common sense' says that the 5-main would be better than the 3-main, right? Well, w/ Rover, what happened, they decided to thin the block walls down (less material, lighter weight), but in order to maintain enough strength, had to convert from a 3-main to the 5-main. But, even that wasn't enough, so they had to add the ribbing on the sides of the block to strengthen it. So, while a 5-main is fine, if I had my druthers, I'd be fine sticking with a well built 3-main.

Since you have a new head for the 3-main, you could change water pumps to go with the later kind.

But, now that I'm thinking about it.... if your current engine is out of a IIa, it should be a 3-main instead of a 5-main......

 

[61rover]

You are correct. I had a brain freeze this morning and was fixated on bearings since they seem to be the NLA parts. The issue is early 3 vs. later 3.

 

[Leslie]

IMHO.... FWIW.....

I can understand wanting to stay reasonably close to original. However, you aren't attempting a 'concours' vehicle to replicate as it came off the assembly line for a showing at Pebble Beach, correct? I would have no qualms about using a later 3-main, and save yourself the head of the rear main, the water pump, etc. etc.

 

[61rover]

How do you feel about using the early ancilaries (Vented valve and oil fill, no PCV, etc on the later block to give it more of an early look?

 

[Leslie]

I say, do what makes it run best..... I've got little of those bits left on mine...

Don't get me wrong, less emissions is good, but, a well-running engine would be a better thing than a poorly-maintained engine that has all of that stuff on there.....

If you want it to look earlier, sure, go right ahead, use the open vented oil cap and the rocker cover cap, etc.

I've got a PCV valve on mine, it's not the large factory disk, it's a little in-line one off the shelf at a parts store, you hardly notice it. I put it in to reduce some of the fumes.

Other things where I'd vary...... a negative-earth vehicle is more practical; it would have originally been positive earth, but that'd be a bit of a hassle to deal with. Well, maybe not, if you don't mind sticking with a generator and don't have any ancillaries (radio, CB, etc.) that would require it to be grounded on the negative side instead of the positive side. I would probably go with an alternator, too... they're just so much more practical to have.

 

[RPGreg2600]

I agree with putting an alternator in. I put one in mine after going through about 5 generators in 2 years.

 

[91 PBP 5079]

I would get a PVC system. It will help keep the moisture out of the crank case and the nasty fumes out of the inside of truck. I installed one on my 62.
Also make sure you have a latter style thermostat housing with a 180 deg thermostat. To cold of a thermostsat will cause miosture in your crankcase also.

As for the rest of the emision systems installed on the early 70's engine definitly dont us it. Watch out for that goofy retard type distributer hopfully the have all been thrown away by now.

 

[Jason T.]

For some reason my '65 has an earlier SII motor in it. The head, front cover and water pump are all different than the IIa motor. Not sure, since I've never had it open, but I think the bearings and crank are different also. The later head will fit your SII setup but the later waterpump will not fit the SII front cover. However, the SIIa front cover and waterpump will be a direct swap. The rebuild kits for the SIIa waterpump work for the SII pump also. I'm sure someone see's the value of a true SII motor but if mine ever needs anything major done to it I'll just swap it for a later motor.
Jason T.

 

[Ren Ching]

Jason

I have a set of std big end bearings for the SII engine if you ever need em.

Dave

For some reason my '65 has an earlier SII motor in it. The head, front cover and water pump are all different than the IIa motor. Not sure, since I've never had it open, but I think the bearings and crank are different also. The later head will fit your SII setup but the later waterpump will not fit the SII front cover. However, the SIIa front cover and waterpump will be a direct swap. The rebuild kits for the SIIa waterpump work for the SII pump also. I'm sure someone see's the value of a true SII motor but if mine ever needs anything major done to it I'll just swap it for a later motor.
Jason T.

 

[Jason T.]

Thanks Dave, no offense but I hope I never have to take you up on the offer though!
Jason T.