3" Lift?

Dreed

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
407
0
Huntsville, Al.
Okay, so I really want a 3 inch Rovertym lift. I've got the two inch with OME shock absorbers. If I go three, I know I get into the issue with my drive shafts, etc. Has anyone done this lift without replacing drive shafts. If I'm going to do the lift I'm sure I need to do it right but...I ain't gotsa no money! My 265/75/16 tires are getting thin and I'll be getting into buying new tires soon so this would be the ideal time to switch to a 3 inch, i.e. 285/75/16's.

Davis
 
B

barefoot

Guest
eibach? wonder what the actual lift is......

yes, there are ppl who run 3 in and get away with it stock...though, seemingly far and few in between. however, its not so much the shafts that you have to worry about as the pinion angles which, in turn, kill the u-joints....also, these ppl prob do not offroad much...unless you count flexing out on parking curbs.

bb-q mutton anyone?

enjoy me!
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
1st off, what do you drive? A 3" lift with a D2 is a bit easier then a D1. You will need extended brake lines and have to re-route the abs cables. But this won't matter if you're keeping the OME's, with a 2" lift they already top out.
If you have a roto flex it may wear a bit faster. The u-joints will be fine, just replace them with greaseable Neapco or Precisions. Pinion angles really aren't that bad on the D2 with 3"s.
I'm currently running 285/75-16's with no problems, if you have sliders you may have to shorten them a bit front and rear.
Noted this is on a D2. If you're running a D1 your truck will explode and consume itself in a fiery death with 3"s.
 
L

lrcb40

Guest
Not forgetting that the caster angle will be thrown off some. RTE will sell you some remachined swivel housings or you can fit some 'cranked' radius arms.
Andy
 

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
I had the OME 3" and recently switched to RTE 3" on my D2.. I have a tom woods front driveshaft, but stock rear DS with rotoflex... no issues.. Just keep a spare rotoflex around incase.. they are easier to swap out then u-joints...
 

Dreed

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
407
0
Huntsville, Al.
Hey guys thanks for the input! Sorry for not clarifying, I've got a D2.

Rovercanus/rmuller: What shock absorbers do ya'll suggest? What do you run rmuller?

lrcb40: Do you think the new caster angle would be enough to cause any very noticeable drifting?

Thanks for everyone's input!


Davis
 

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
I run *gulp* procomp +2s .. its only been about 2 weeks but they havent been bad. I'm going to do some heavy wheelin' for a week come this saturday so we'll see how they hold up..
 

Dreed

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
407
0
Huntsville, Al.
rmuller said:
I run *gulp* procomp +2s .. its only been about 2 weeks but they havent been bad. I'm going to do some heavy wheelin' for a week come this saturday so we'll see how they hold up..

haha I won't tell anyone! I'm just afraid that I'm going to have to spend more money than I want.
 

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
Well, heres the quick breakdown of the minimum you need:

RTE 3" Springs - $295.00
RTE Extended Brakelines - $88
Procomp ES9000 +2 - $189.00 (make sure you get the poly bushings also, DAP includes them)

You'll need to remove your front cross member, and reroute your ABS lines..

so you can have a 3" lift for $572.00

Of course, there are alternative, more expensive, but probably better ways of doing it:
- rear spring retainers
- rear shock drop kit
- bilstein 7100s
- crossmember spacers

etc...
 

LiftedDisco

Well-known member
Mar 7, 2006
46
0
As noted many times previously, these rigs are not consistent.

I have a 4" lift on my D1 (all spring, no spacers). Stock front driveshaft, swapped in a u-jointed RRC rear from the boneyard to replace the rotoflex stocker.
No pinion correction, no rotated trailing links, no drama. I fabbed up some different rear brake line brackets to maximize the stock line length and left the front stock. Factory brake hoses, OME MD shocks all round.

That was 75,000 miles and three trips to Moab ago. You can call Golden Spike a parking lot if you want.
All universal joints are still stock from the factory, even the one that came from the RRC.:rofl:

My point is that many folks have done lifts half as high and had significant problems.

Just do it! You might not have any problems at all.

It's a Rover thing, even we don't understand.;)
 

stevogabe

Active member
Nov 8, 2006
43
0
im saving up for the 3" rte lift. disconomad is my inspiration. i have the same year and model :drool:

 
D

drjohnso2

Guest
Yes I have to say I really dont much care for D2s but disconomad's is one nice ride...good footsteps to follow
 

WillTN

Well-known member
Oct 14, 2004
1,858
0
Franklin, TN
www.tnrovers.com
rmuller said:
Well, heres the quick breakdown of the minimum you need:

RTE 3" Springs - $295.00
RTE Extended Brakelines - $88
Procomp ES9000 +2 - $189.00 (make sure you get the poly bushings also, DAP includes them)

You'll need to remove your front cross member, and reroute your ABS lines..

so you can have a 3" lift for $572.00

Thats what I'm currently doing.

Those of you all with that suspension did you have to mess with the ACE?
 

stevogabe

Active member
Nov 8, 2006
43
0
we should have a sticky for all these basic lift questions with min and recommended setups to follow, from RTE, OME, or else where. :justdoit: