3" Rovertym Lift + Tires
- Thread starter nola000
- Start date
I had factory natos on my d2... Not p38 steelies. Lp you csn take the chance but of sold mine to someone ditching the other ones because of vibrations. Fwiw
Can you provide me with facts to back this up?[/QUOTE]
I don't have written proof at hand, but my 2000 still runs the TC when I have the diff locked. My buddies 04 does the same, but his TC is FAR more aggressive.
P.s I had to drive by the dealership today and I stoped in for a free car wash. And just for shits and giggles I asked the service department how much they would charge to plug my truck in and check the logged ABS faults. They replied $175, I respectfully declined. Then he got defensive, so I told him I could by a scanner for less than that. So the service manager and the lead tech swore up and down that the rswsolution ABS amigo was a scam. Moral of the story, sometimes people just make shit up.
I don't have written proof at hand, but my 2000 still runs the TC when I have the diff locked. My buddies 04 does the same, but his TC is FAR more aggressive.
P.s I had to drive by the dealership today and I stoped in for a free car wash. And just for shits and giggles I asked the service department how much they would charge to plug my truck in and check the logged ABS faults. They replied $175, I respectfully declined. Then he got defensive, so I told him I could by a scanner for less than that. So the service manager and the lead tech swore up and down that the rswsolution ABS amigo was a scam. Moral of the story, sometimes people just make shit up.
No. this is from Rovertym's website:nola000 said:
Discovery I 2? Coils
?RR4-2 Front
?RR1-2 Rear
Discovery I 3? Coils
?RR4-3P Front
?RR1-3 Rear
Discovery II 2? Coils
?RR4-1 Front
?RR1-2 Rear
Discovery II 3? Coils
?RR4-3P Front (mine are RR4-2, I think they are the old, non-progressive ones)
?RR1-3 Rear
you can see how the springs for the front of a D2 are 1" shorter than for a D1. That is because the front spring bucket is located about an inch lower on D2s than on D1s.
The proper springs do lift a little unevenly with the stock spring perches but it looks fine if you (1) use D1 spring perches in the rear (they lift it something like 5/8" over the D2 spring perches or (2) just add a spacer under the stock D2 spring perch in the rear.
wheelen disco said:
I understand. I hooked mine up today to the testbook, but didn't have enough time to go to through abs stuff as I was troubleshooting cruise control. Land rover bulletin say's my programming specs are out of whack and to replace ECU
So maybe there is something just wrong with mine. Sorry I junked up your thread.
Thanks mbrummel
@achapman
Money isnt the issue in so far as Im just not interested in spending it on goodies for my truck. The only reason Im doing anything to my stock Disco right now is because of the urgency of the condition of my stock tires. I figure since Im going to spend the money on new tires I should get my dream tire size, dream springs and dream rims instead of a stop gap solution. At a minimum my dream tires would require me to buy my dream rims and apparently springs too. But the more I dream the more I realize Im going to have to get deeper into the suspension, and my pockets. All this just to change my tires. I guess I should stop dreaming
@shawn b
thanks
@SLATZ
I did a search but there was no consensus. It seems some get away with just 32/33s, and a 2" or 3" and no problems, others have problems with breaking axles, weak torque on stock gearing, busted CVs, caster issues, radius arms, etc. I want somebody with a Disco II to tell me...yes I have 32s/no lift, 32s/2", 32s/3", 33s/no lift, 33s/2" or 33s/3" on stock everything else and no problems. I get mixed results with the above.
@achapman
Money isnt the issue in so far as Im just not interested in spending it on goodies for my truck. The only reason Im doing anything to my stock Disco right now is because of the urgency of the condition of my stock tires. I figure since Im going to spend the money on new tires I should get my dream tire size, dream springs and dream rims instead of a stop gap solution. At a minimum my dream tires would require me to buy my dream rims and apparently springs too. But the more I dream the more I realize Im going to have to get deeper into the suspension, and my pockets. All this just to change my tires. I guess I should stop dreaming
@shawn b
thanks
@SLATZ
I did a search but there was no consensus. It seems some get away with just 32/33s, and a 2" or 3" and no problems, others have problems with breaking axles, weak torque on stock gearing, busted CVs, caster issues, radius arms, etc. I want somebody with a Disco II to tell me...yes I have 32s/no lift, 32s/2", 32s/3", 33s/no lift, 33s/2" or 33s/3" on stock everything else and no problems. I get mixed results with the above.
Last edited:
@SLATZ
I did a search but there was no consensus. It seems some get away with just 32/33s, and a 2" or 3" and no problems, others have problems with breaking axles, weak torque on stock gearing, busted CVs, caster issues, radius arms, etc. I want somebody with a Disco II to tell me...yes I have 32s/no lift, 32s/2", 32s/3", 33s/no lift, 33s/2" or 33s/3" on stock everything else and no problems. I get mixed results with the above.[/quote]
I have OME 3" lift from Lucky 8 and 285/75/16 with stock axles thou I have installed TT lockers front and rear. I did have to install extended brake lines and Adj Panhard. I needed the panhard after installing the lockers because of wicked pulling. I do get alittle rubbing on really hard hits but otherwise I am very happy. I also have stock driveshafts without any issue. A buddy went with the RTE 3" and needed to get driveshafts along with everythig else I mentioned since the RTE springs yeilded an additional 1.5" lift. Good luck with everything.
I did a search but there was no consensus. It seems some get away with just 32/33s, and a 2" or 3" and no problems, others have problems with breaking axles, weak torque on stock gearing, busted CVs, caster issues, radius arms, etc. I want somebody with a Disco II to tell me...yes I have 32s/no lift, 32s/2", 32s/3", 33s/no lift, 33s/2" or 33s/3" on stock everything else and no problems. I get mixed results with the above.[/quote]
I have OME 3" lift from Lucky 8 and 285/75/16 with stock axles thou I have installed TT lockers front and rear. I did have to install extended brake lines and Adj Panhard. I needed the panhard after installing the lockers because of wicked pulling. I do get alittle rubbing on really hard hits but otherwise I am very happy. I also have stock driveshafts without any issue. A buddy went with the RTE 3" and needed to get driveshafts along with everythig else I mentioned since the RTE springs yeilded an additional 1.5" lift. Good luck with everything.
I have an 04 DII, RTE 3" Springs, fox 2.0 remote res shocks. DI spring seats in the rear with a 1" spacer levels it out...with just DI seats in the rear it still LOOKS low. Its actually even but the way the lines of the truck are it makes the rear look low.
I DO have the front radius arms and the panhard rod. Don't cheap on the lift and leave these two out...it will make a difference on how the truck tracks down the road. Also replace your front driveshaft with a greaseable one. Other than that I am on stock open diffs, axles, stock watts linkage, cv's, etc. I haven't broken anything yet, knock on wood.
Have 275/70/18s and a set of 34x10.5 (almost a 33) swamper on black steel wheels from Atlantic British. If you want to go bigger on a tire I would at least regear. However, If I regear I'd like to go ahead and put in lockers as well.
this is a picture of stock DII rear spring seats and no spacers
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo8/leeawalden/My Truck/3inRTElift040.jpg
This is it with DI seats and 1" spacer
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo8/leeawalden/My Truck/ALPINE20RADIO20016.jpg
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo8/leeawalden/My Truck/710871053_qGiaw-X3.jpg
Like its been said you don't NEED radius arms and panhard rod and a front driveshaft, but highly highly suggested. to make the sucker drive down the road, you really need springs shocks and brake lines.
I DO have the front radius arms and the panhard rod. Don't cheap on the lift and leave these two out...it will make a difference on how the truck tracks down the road. Also replace your front driveshaft with a greaseable one. Other than that I am on stock open diffs, axles, stock watts linkage, cv's, etc. I haven't broken anything yet, knock on wood.
Have 275/70/18s and a set of 34x10.5 (almost a 33) swamper on black steel wheels from Atlantic British. If you want to go bigger on a tire I would at least regear. However, If I regear I'd like to go ahead and put in lockers as well.
this is a picture of stock DII rear spring seats and no spacers
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo8/leeawalden/My Truck/3inRTElift040.jpg
This is it with DI seats and 1" spacer
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo8/leeawalden/My Truck/ALPINE20RADIO20016.jpg
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo8/leeawalden/My Truck/710871053_qGiaw-X3.jpg
Like its been said you don't NEED radius arms and panhard rod and a front driveshaft, but highly highly suggested. to make the sucker drive down the road, you really need springs shocks and brake lines.
This is a little OT but is there any difference in ride height between a rr4-3 and rr4-3p spring? I have a set of the non-progressive rr4-3 springs that I am looking to install soon with some rr1-3 rear springs and wanted to know if it yielded the same results as the rr4-3p/rr1-3 combo
I'd call rovertym. I could measure perch to perch on the progressives, but don't know what perch to perch is on the non progressive springs.
@SLATZ
@leeawalden
Thats the kind of response Im looking for and the pictures are GREAT!!!
Thanks guys/girls.
@leeawalden
Thats the kind of response Im looking for and the pictures are GREAT!!!
Thanks guys/girls.