4.6 Bosch cam, search anxiety

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
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I'm rebuilding a Bosch 4.6 using 4.0 pistons. What cams have people used? Does anyone make a cam for the Bosch V8 that doesn't need machining to work?
Did a search but didn't seem to get any definitive answers.
If possible I would buy it as a set with gears, timing chain and lifters.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
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i built exactly that with a crower 53229 cam. havent installed it yet but the cam is a drop in. waiting for the current 4.0 to let go or hit 250. whichever happens first
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
Thanks! That's exactly what I am looking for.
A lot of what I searched talked about having to have the cam machined.
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
Now, is there a kit that includes lifters timing components and cam?
I thought D&D had one but everything I pull up for them refers to Fords. Also RPI doesn't seem to have comprehensive information on their website.
 

My6speedz

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2015
134
1
NC
Yep summit for lifters, actually, I got mine from Jegs but same thing.

D&D for cam and timing set

D&D can do it all for you if you want to just make one call and be done.

If you get the upgraded timing chain from him it will come with a different style cam as they have to be used together. It eliminates the cam retainer, well doesn't eliminate it, but the factory crescent shaped retainer is no longer needed. I got my studs as well from him because I couldn't track down the part number for the Buick kit without the extra row and trusted he would have the right ones.

Come to find out they don't make a separate kit without the extra studs, I learned I had been searching high and low for something that didn't exist when the ARP box in my order from D&D had all of them in there. Guy at ARP told me it was likely just a hardly used number and to search the catalog since it wasn't online. I felt like a tard for wasting a couple days on that one.

I wanted to go 227 really bad for lots of smooth responsive torque, but once on the phone he basically told me to trust him and go with the 229. He also talked me out of buying new valve springs so I felt like he was pretty honest.
He don't answer e-mails in my experience, but he will help you on the phone. One of the few vendors that promised to call back and did it once when I had a question for him and I called right before lunch lol.
 

Mike26

Well-known member
Jan 29, 2008
244
1
Dallas
Crower 53229 is the way to go. Robert helped me build my 4.6 and thats the way to do it. Little bit more noise and more vibration over the factory set up, but not bad at all

I did not however do the 4.0 pistons on the 4.6 crank. I just stuck with the 4.6 pistons. I was under the impression that the computer would retard the timing with that high of compression on a D2
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
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Come to find out they don't make a separate kit without the extra studs, I learned I had been searching high and low for something that didn't exist when the ARP box in my order from D&D had all of them in there. Guy at ARP told me it was likely just a hardly used number and to search the catalog since it wasn't online. I felt like a tard for wasting a couple days on that one.

not only do they make that separate kit, but you can order it from jegs or summit. i chose summit for the set i ordered because i like their please dont touch stickers
 

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KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
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Fort Worth, TEXAS
There is two different head stud kits. The old style studs are shorter than the gems/Bosch kit with fewer studs....

Ymmv as its been a while since i looked all that up.
 

My6speedz

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2015
134
1
NC
not only do they make that separate kit, but you can order it from jegs or summit. i chose summit for the set i ordered because i like their please dont touch stickers

The one I got with from D&D was the 124-4007 kit.

Wonder why it is so much cheaper?

Maybe he was confused when I Asked him because I asked for a Buick kit without the top row, should have said Rover. Oh well.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
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On Kennith's private island
I don't understand how you can do a "drop in" cam from a box store but not get the timing cog from D&D??? Seems to me there would be no benefit of a "hotter" cam without adjusting the timing.

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robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
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id love for you to explain how advancing or retarding the 229 profile is of any benefit to a rover.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
id love for you to explain how advancing or retarding the 229 profile is of any benefit to a rover.

I don't know. Maybe because you're adding .027 lift and that changes everything? Just an idea...

Wally,
When I did my 4.6, I went with the 260* cam. This cam is borderline acceptable without doing some valve work. I was getting a tad bit of spring bind. If I remember correctly I used some Chevy valve springs which were a little stiffer, but do not recall messing with the seats. That motor would pull 6,000rpms, run 70mph over Afton with my small trailer behind it and on 35" tires, and got about 7mpg. I bet that motor would be a rocket in your truck.

Call Mark for your cam, lifters and timing set. You'll get the correct timing cog and spacer for your cam sensor to be compatible for the new cam.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
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364
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I don't know.

well now you do, it doesnt benefit them. playing with the cam timing made a 4.2 and 229 profile cam fall on its face. straight up is the way to install them

if you must spend extra money on proprietary parts dnd isnt bad, but if you like saving money and using oe parts jegs/summit and a genuine gear are the way to go
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
well now you do, it doesnt benefit them. playing with the cam timing made a 4.2 and 229 profile cam fall on its face. straight up is the way to install them if you must spend extra money on proprietary parts dnd isnt bad, but if you like saving money and using oe parts jegs/summit and a genuine gear are the way to go

I'll trust Mark over you. Thanks.