take a picture of your frontend and post it. it might give us a better idea of whats causing it.
4" Lift Pan Hard Rod ?
- Thread starter SANDDISCO2
- Start date
rover4x4 said:
i did the same thing because my shocks hadn't come in yet. rear took twenty minutes. front took an hour. really it was that bad, and plus i had to reseat the front driver spring.
rgetting the front springs in and bolting in the front shocks were the most difficult part of the job.
If your steering wheel is to the right just let the drag link out a little to center it. It has nothing to do with the pan hard...
WillTN said:
why bother helping the guy with the correct answer...he is not going to read it anyways:rofl:
he is intent on cutting his panhard and changing stuff that does not need to be done on a puny little 1.75" lift
Muskyman, thanks for your help. You make this forum a pleasure and by the way you talk I am sure your lift is very huge.
I just need to know if its ok that my axle is shifted over just a tad? I can correct the drag link but I want to fix it the right way.
I just need to know if its ok that my axle is shifted over just a tad? I can correct the drag link but I want to fix it the right way.
Ok, I just measured from the bottom of the spring to the top of the spring. It is exactly 13.5". I believe stock should be 8 5/8". I am starting to wonder if the springs were really OME 762??
Ok, now that i am over 4" do you guys understand that my pan hard rod is pulling the axle towards the driverside?? I just want to know if thats ok? and just get the drag link adjusted? This is all I need to know. Thanks all
Ok, now that i am over 4" do you guys understand that my pan hard rod is pulling the axle towards the driverside?? I just want to know if thats ok? and just get the drag link adjusted? This is all I need to know. Thanks all
SANDDISCO2 said:
LOL I hope it is after putting on a lift. You need to lengthen your drag link to correct the wheel. The panhard is fine.
With a 3" lift on a DII, your front driveshaft will encounter the crossmember in it's stock location. Probably not during daily driving, but if you extend those springs past the lengths of your stock shocks, you will cause damage. The stock Woodheads dont like to be topped out - find an alterative set(search), and complete your suspension lift. Dare I ask what is going on in the rear of your truck??
How do you not know what springs you purchased?
How do you not know what springs you purchased?
the right way is to simply adjust the drag link like has been said over and over.
cutting, moving yada yada yada is not needed on your lift.
just enjoy it dont over think it, many many guys have been down your road and if something else was needed you would be hearing about it.
cutting, moving yada yada yada is not needed on your lift.
just enjoy it dont over think it, many many guys have been down your road and if something else was needed you would be hearing about it.
Thom is exactly right in regards to your alignment issues. This shouldn't be too hard to correct.
i agree that front cross member is a major issue tweek it out and your f you drive shaft in the a, itl land rite in the yoke. and you are going to pull shocks in two. im sure you can hear it when you hit bumpsn the road i couldnt imagine if you took it off!
Mongo said:
yes I agree 100% he needs shocks and he said he is removing the front cross member .
but the panhard is just fine is my point.
Mongo, Thom - I think we are all on the same page.. He needs new shocks, needs to adjust his draglink, and needs to do something about his crossmember.
I'll tell you that I ran with RTE's 3" lift for 30k+ miles without my front crossmember. Is this the right solution? No. Did I have any ill-effects? No. I wheeled the shit out of it. I did go through a couple of motor mounts, however due to the overall mileage of the vehicle, I can't definately attribute the mounts to the lack of a crossmember. It's too easy and cheap not to get the spacers for the crossmember - and then you 'shouldn't' need to worry.
I'll tell you that I ran with RTE's 3" lift for 30k+ miles without my front crossmember. Is this the right solution? No. Did I have any ill-effects? No. I wheeled the shit out of it. I did go through a couple of motor mounts, however due to the overall mileage of the vehicle, I can't definately attribute the mounts to the lack of a crossmember. It's too easy and cheap not to get the spacers for the crossmember - and then you 'shouldn't' need to worry.
If he has to replace the shocks anyway, he may as well waste the stockers until he finds the ones he wants to replace them with. With a 3" lift he still has a couple of inches before they top out.
If it rides fine, then it should be nothing to worry about. There have been a few people that have run 762 up front. The spring rate is high but its a progressive spring, not that great for steering response.
If it rides fine, then it should be nothing to worry about. There have been a few people that have run 762 up front. The spring rate is high but its a progressive spring, not that great for steering response.