Can anyone list out all the parts needed to make the front/rear 10 spline to 24 spline axle shaft conversion for an '89? Going to start the search for some D1 parts and want to make sure I get everything I need. Searched the site but didn't find the specifics.
'89 10 spline to 24 spline conversion
- Thread starter sutton_brian
- Start date
I dont think you can use the disco stuff because you dont have ABS in your Range rover. If you do use it you will need to make spacers or something. I could be wrong.
The front 10 spline stuff isn't so bad. For the rear maybe you can go to a Great Basin Rovers HD shaft/hubs.
What are your reasons for wanting to go to the 24 spline stuff?
Rob
The front 10 spline stuff isn't so bad. For the rear maybe you can go to a Great Basin Rovers HD shaft/hubs.
What are your reasons for wanting to go to the 24 spline stuff?
Rob
I
ISUZUROVER
Guest
Can't use disco stuff because of ABS??? never heard that one before...
Rear
A 1989 RR should already have the narrow spindles already, so the disco 24 spline rear should bolt straight in (if not you will need to install the spindles and hubs from the disco as well.
Front
I think that the disco's kept the 10 spline front inners till about 1993/94, but after that they switched to pathetically weak and tiny 32 spline CV inner axles, so it wouldn't be an upgrade to fit a disco front end. If you want to strengthen the front, fit some AEU2522's and aftermarket 24/23 spline inner shafts and aftermarket front hub flanges.
Rear
A 1989 RR should already have the narrow spindles already, so the disco 24 spline rear should bolt straight in (if not you will need to install the spindles and hubs from the disco as well.
Front
I think that the disco's kept the 10 spline front inners till about 1993/94, but after that they switched to pathetically weak and tiny 32 spline CV inner axles, so it wouldn't be an upgrade to fit a disco front end. If you want to strengthen the front, fit some AEU2522's and aftermarket 24/23 spline inner shafts and aftermarket front hub flanges.
B
Black Mustache
Guest
I talked to John about this not too long ago, and if I remember correctly, it should be just diff and axles, spacers or not. Doing the whole axle would be more work, if you have to start cutting bolts and such like my RRC. May need the flanges, but Drew at the dealership can tell you for sure. After the 230, I will be watching for this option for myself if I can find the stuff on the cheap, otherwise lockers will go in.
Cutting bolts? what bolts?
The four differences between the '89 RRC and D1's rear suspension (that I can remember) are -
- Boge self-levelling strut (but that doesn't bolt to the axle, to the A-arm only),
- D1's axle has provisions for rear sway bar that '89 RRC does not,
- rear shock mounts use nylock nuts on D1, not cotter pin like RRC, and
- if the rear axle is from pre-mid-97 D1, the pinion will have rotoflex-specific flange.
The four differences between the '89 RRC and D1's rear suspension (that I can remember) are -
- Boge self-levelling strut (but that doesn't bolt to the axle, to the A-arm only),
- D1's axle has provisions for rear sway bar that '89 RRC does not,
- rear shock mounts use nylock nuts on D1, not cotter pin like RRC, and
- if the rear axle is from pre-mid-97 D1, the pinion will have rotoflex-specific flange.
B
Black Mustache
Guest
i'll make it even easier!
- Boge self-levelling strut (but that doesn't bolt to the axle, to the A-arm only), JUNK IT
- D1's axle has provisions for rear sway bar that '89 RRC does not, JUNK IT
- rear shock mounts use nylock nuts on D1, not cotter pin like RRC, and
- if the rear axle is from pre-mid-97 D1, the pinion will have rotoflex-specific flange.
Now yer talkin'
p m said:
- Boge self-levelling strut (but that doesn't bolt to the axle, to the A-arm only), JUNK IT
- D1's axle has provisions for rear sway bar that '89 RRC does not, JUNK IT
- rear shock mounts use nylock nuts on D1, not cotter pin like RRC, and
- if the rear axle is from pre-mid-97 D1, the pinion will have rotoflex-specific flange.
Now yer talkin'
cutting bolts that are so rusted, they no longer wish to be moved. Most everything I have done recently has involved shearing/cutting the responsible bolt off, as they are rusted together. I know if I went after the connections on my rear axle it would be some quality time with a cutting tool, but maybe that is just my truck
That is why I said swapping guts may be easier.
That is why I said swapping guts may be easier.
I agree leave it alone. Maybe worth it in the rear axle but not the front. Just my opinion. Not a bad idea if you buy a locker for the rear but cant afford good axles yet. I think it will work despite the ABS but call Bill at GB. Gordo
I
Iron Boots
Guest
Rob is correct. You'd need to use, at the least, the outer section of the Disco donor as the axles are a tick longer (3/8?) In fact if you look on GBR's site, the upgrades are different part numbers.
I actually bought a set of GBR 24 splines and drive flanges from a budd and learned the hard way it didn't work.
Not sure if it's the ABS reluctor rings that make the ABS axles longer or not, but they are for sure longer.
RJ
I actually bought a set of GBR 24 splines and drive flanges from a budd and learned the hard way it didn't work.
Not sure if it's the ABS reluctor rings that make the ABS axles longer or not, but they are for sure longer.
RJ