93 LWB Issues, Questions, Various headaches

[Greg French]

Brought my "new" 93 LWB home Saturday. Spent all day Sunday working on it. Got some pressing issues that I need help with.

1. The "0-!-0" light is on. Manual says this is the viscous coupling for the automatic CDL or something. How do I tell what exactly is wrong with it?

2. ABS light is on. PO gave me some new ABS sensors. Could the ABS fault be causing the VC to fault?

3. Check Engine light came on. No OBDII port. Is there a way to know why it came on? How do I reset it?

4. Oil light is on, but there is plenty of oil in it.

5. AB coil conversion has been done. Is there a step-by-step instructions link on how to use the compressor at will (for a tire inflator, etc)

6. I am still a little confused as to how the 4wd works on these. From what I understand, the VC locks the CDL whenever it is needed. If this happens, the 0-!-0 light comes on. Isn't there also an electronic locker in the rear? How/when does this work? Do I have this right?

There is probably more, but this will get me started. Thanks!

 

[simon]

3. Check Engine light came on. No OBDII port. Is there a way to know why it came on? How do I reset it?

OBD1 has the display under the driver's seat, OBD2 is after 1996, check the code
go to www.rangerovers.net for more info.. for the rest of your questions

good luck.

S.

 

[cptyarderho]

some models have an oil level sensor in the oil pan, mine is (was) on the right. Are you sure your oil pressure is okay? This could be referring to the oil pump?

 

[sven]

1. The "0-!-0" light is on.

What light are you talking about?

 

[Greg French]

The orange one at the top that has the 0-!-0 symbol in it. Any idea what it is?
How do I tell if the oil pressure is ok?
I will be changing the oil tonight. Hopefully that will fix it.

PO said the heated windscreen switch shorts out the oil light. He demonstrated it to me, but the light went out once he turned off the engine. Mine is on all the time since I got it home.

 

[Kyle]

Both your lights are related. Sounds like the ABS pump isnt pumping up. Can you hear a electric motor running under the hood ?

 

[scrover]

Brought my "new" 93 LWB home Saturday. Spent all day Sunday working on it. Got some pressing issues that I need help with.

1. The "0-!-0" light is on. Manual says this is the viscous coupling for the automatic CDL or something. How do I tell what exactly is wrong with it?

2. ABS light is on. PO gave me some new ABS sensors. Could the ABS fault be causing the VC to fault?

3. Check Engine light came on. No OBDII port. Is there a way to know why it came on? How do I reset it?

4. Oil light is on, but there is plenty of oil in it.

5. AB coil conversion has been done. Is there a step-by-step instructions link on how to use the compressor at will (for a tire inflater, etc)

6. I am still a little confused as to how the 4wd works on these. From what I understand, the VC locks the CDL whenever it is needed. If this happens, the 0-!-0 light comes on. Isn't there also an electronic locker in the rear? How/when does this work? Do I have this right?

There is probably more, but this will get me started. Thanks!

I'll start with #6. It sounds like the "0-!-0" light is the ETC (rear only, electronic traction control) warning light which, as Kyle said is directly related to the ABS (same system). While the VC could also be locked, it's not related to that light. The ETC warning light on a '93 is only supposed to come on when the ETC has been constantly triggered for an extended period of time - mine has never come on. Some-thing's up with the ABS/ETC if both lights are on. Get it checked ASAP - you can loose brakes almost completely if the pump stops pressurizing the system (I did ) When you first start the truck, the pump should run for 45 seconds. After that, about every 5 or 6 pumps of the pedal, it should run again for about 5 seconds. If it's just bad sensors you're in luck. BTW If the VC is locked, you'll hear the tires squealing on a slow tight turn - do a u-turn in your street - if it's seized you should take out the front propshaft until you can fix it.

I have a .jpeg of the pin wiring for the compressor. I'll see if I can attach it. I wouldn't bother if I were you. The pump is so feeble and low duty cycle it would fry before you got one tire up.

Oil light? Don't run the engine 'til you figure out why

The fault code display is under the passenger seat. Take off the lower side panel and you'll see it. You can detach it from the bracket and leave it facing back-wards so you can read it anytime just by looking behind the seat.

Hope that helps

SC

 

[Greg French]

I do hear an electric motor running when I first start it up, which runs for 30-45 seconds. I noticed it again this morning when I was stuck in traffic- not moving...foot on brake pedal. It sounds like it is coming from the Driver's side dash area. Is that the one you are referring to? I think the pump is working because the ABS sometimes kicks in on dry pavement. My disco did this, so I just pulled the fuse. This one I would like to fix, as it also controls the rear locker. I'll change the ABS sensors and see if that fixes everything.

VC seems to be fine, or at least not locked, as it doesn't act funny on pavement. I re-read the manual last night. That light has nothing to do with the VC. It all is starting to make sense now.

Is there a light that comes on to let you know when the CDL is locked?

Also...Cruise control does not work. I checked all of the vacuum lines, and all seem to be ok. Any other ideas?

Thanks so far!

 

[simon]

Some-thing's up with the ABS/ETC if both lights are on. Get it checked ASAP - you can loose brakes almost completely if the pump stops pressurizing the system (I did )
SC

I'm also new to this RRC thing (I just got a 1995 LWB with a wonderfull marketing bait of 25year edition I know it's bull but I like it )... when you say "almost completely" if you are on one of those very steep trails (not that there are anything like that here in Miami) going down and this happens... you would be almost dead? or completely dead? so there is no back-up to this electric system? should I keep my trusty manually (almost) everything disco?

thanks

S.

 

[simon]

This one I would like to fix, as it also controls the rear locker

Greg the RR does not have a locker in the rear, it is ETC for the rear only, meaning that the ABS pulses the brakes in the rear 2 wheels when tire spin is present to send the power to the other wheel that has more grip.

S.

 

[Greg French]

Right. That's what I was referring to. Not really a locker, but more like a locker than my Disco. That light is supposed to come on when the rear ETC kicks in, or when there is a fault, right?

 

[Roverlady]

Greg, we fixed our cruise control by checking ALL the fuses...previous owner/owners had different or wrong powers in some places. That's an easy place to start...

Good luck

 

[scrover]

I do hear an electric motor running when I first start it up, which runs for 30-45 seconds. I noticed it again this morning when I was stuck in traffic- not moving...foot on brake pedal. It sounds like it is coming from the Driver's side dash area. Is that the one you are referring to? I think the pump is working because the ABS sometimes kicks in on dry pavement. My disco did this, so I just pulled the fuse. This one I would like to fix, as it also controls the rear locker. I'll change the ABS sensors and see if that fixes everything.

VC seems to be fine, or at least not locked, as it doesn't act funny on pavement. I re-read the manual last night. That light has nothing to do with the VC. It all is starting to make sense now.

Is there a light that comes on to let you know when the CDL is locked?

Also...Cruise control does not work. I checked all of the vacuum lines, and all seem to be ok. Any other ideas?

Thanks so far!

Yes, that's the brake pump buzzing when you start up and every once in a while. The only back up is the accumulator which is what gives you however many presses of the pedal you get before the pump kicks in again. Once it gets down to only a couple of presses between the pump running, you need to change the accumulator - you should get ten brake applications on a fresh accumulator. Not a locker BTW, you have the same open diff. as your Disco - it's ETC on the rear wheels - kind of reverse ABS.

There is no light for a locked VC. It's not a mechanical lock like an LT230 - it's more like a fluid clutch.

For the cruise control, there is a small vacuum device in the front driver's side behind the headlamp; check the hoses going to that thing.

SC

 

[Blueboy]

Lwb

Greg,

man, do yourself a favor and QUICKLY buy a real LR RR LWB workshop manual.

it will be become your best resource on your RR.

everything you have asked about on how the OEM systems work or how to fix them are in there.

believe me, there will be a point in time when you'll be very thankful its in your Rover.


Jaime

 

[Random]

I hope this will be some help to you. I recently bought a 93 LWB and had to go throught same questions you've got now.


#1. The Electronic Traction Control light (0-!-0) will light up for the first 10-30 seconds on start up. It should go off after 30 seconds. If it does not, it again indicates some form of a problem, my guess would be the rear ABS sensors are either bad, or the ABS sensor "ring" is not installed inside the rear brake rotors.


#2. The ABS light stays on until you go over 5mph (forward only). If it stays on after 5 mph, then it's indicating some form of ABS fault. This also means the ETC will not work [(0-!-0) as you put it]. Again, check the ABS sensors and check inside the rear discs for the ABS sensor ring.
http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Tech/Maintain/Diagnosing_ABS/diagnosing_abs.html

#3. As others have stated, there is a diagnostic unit under the passenger seat. It will flash the "code" on startup. Codes can be looked up here.
http://www.rangie.com/articles_latest.php?id=385&



#3. The "brake" light will light up, and stay lit untill the ABS pump has presurized the system. DO NOT attempt to drive, or even press on the brake pedal until the BRAKE light goes off. The ABS pump will continue to work even after the brake light has gone off. That's normal, but DO NOT press the brake pedal until that light goes out. (you can raise/lower the ebrake handle, but just don't press the brake pedal)

#4. See sensor failures here (lots of great info)
http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm

#5. (posted by others)

#6. The Center Diff is filled with heat sensative viscious "goo". When the Center Diff "slips" this creates heat. The heat turns the "goo" into a solid, effectivly locking the center diff. This works GREAT on paper, and fairly well in practice, but they do go bad with overuse. The ETC basically works like ABS. When the ECU detects wheel spin on one rear wheel, it will apply brake pressure to that wheel, to send power/force to the other rear wheel. It ONLY works on the rear wheels. When the ETC system becomes "active" the (0-!-0) light will go on, and then go off once traction is equalized for both rear wheels.

 

[LMRW]

just a thought! all the tyres of the same type? do all the tyres have the same wear in the tread? ie if on tyre is new and the other is 50% wore then this difference in diameters may cause a problem.
spanish sure help me out in figuring the abs problems with my 92rrc. i was quoted a 2000.00 dollar repare to rectify the abs fault and remedy the dash warning light! i did the diagonistic my self and retreived the codes, problem; one wheel sensor out of phase and one faulty brake light switch!
defitnally get a shop manual if you dont all ready got one!
good luck with it!