95 RRC LWB Braking Issue

[RRCNicky]

...piecing together a cheap RRC LWB and have most of it in order except for a braking issue I'm trying to diagnose. I have a regular issue where:

- the TC and Anti-lock lights are on, but truck brakes (other than obviously lacking both of those safe-guards).

- the TC and Ant-lock lights go OFF, then I have to worry.
1) Going over any bump, I can hear relay behind instrument cluster clicking away
2) Even without any bumps, still clicks randomly
3) while relay is clicking, If i try to brake, pedal is hard and I have to really jam on it for any braking - the pedal pulses really hard when I do this. I can stop, but I have to keep crazy far back from anyone in front of me.

So close to having this thing as dependable as a truck this old can be, want this taken care of ASAP. I've had a 95 RRC SWB for 7 years and never had this issue pop up. It just died, so I have a truck I can easily cannibalize if need be.

Thanks for any suggestions...

 

[gabriellaconi]

Your pedal pulsing is your ABS kicking in. Its not letting you lock the tires. I had this problem, and it was particularlly scarry on steep down hills. I evacuated the system, refilled it, and bled all the lines. The problem seems to have gone away...For now

Le us know what you find out. Good luck

Gabe.

 

[pdxrovermech]

tap all your sensors in. it woudl also be smart to check for play in the hubs since that would cuase the sensors to wiggle out. or you could just convert it to a regular booster set up in a day.

 

[p m]

or you could just convert it to a regular booster set up in a day.

That would be a shame, wouldn't it?
95 Classic brakes are light years ahead of Disco vacuum-booster set up... when they work.

You can disable the ABS without losing brakes - I'd have to dig up Rave to see what would be the best way.

 

[Flyfish]

You can unplug all of the abs sensors and just be left with power brakes.

I did that when I swapped to HD axles/cv's. (abs & non-abs cv's is dangerous!)

Stops great and I don't have abs trying to do its own thing.

Plus it takes about 30 seconds to try it out.

 

[crown14]

Check the codes, one of your rear sensors probably needs to be pushed back in. Try a search I had a similar issue once and made a thread.

 

[RRCNicky]

Thanks guys - I did a check of all the sensors and they are fully plugged in, I'm going to try and pull them all and reset them, see if that helps (might leave them out short term if need be). Swapping the brake fluid is on the cards too...

The lady who owned this truck before abused the hell out of it. In the last week it's been my daily driver and I have had to swap rear diff (she'd worn the gears flat!), swap front axle (CV totally exploded), pulled bad airbags and put in coils and put a new muffler and piping in (missing heat shield + blown center muffler = fire pit in rear floor). Also had to replace rear upper gate, lower gate, bumper, wheels and tires and clean out the remains of must have been 300 trips to McDonalds by the number of straws in the truck!

Oh, and I got it for $300 from the dealer - it was stuck in park and she took it there to get it fixed, when a parking brake solenoid didn't fix it, she abandoned it. I ripped out the shift interlock and problem solved.

Now if I can just get it to stop when I hit the brake pedal!

 

[crown14]

No not plugged in, pushed in...

How to check the fault code:

http://flrc.erovers.com/2007/10/14/troubleshooting-abs-light-on-rr-classic-and-disco-1s.aspx

 

[RRCNicky]

Thanks for the link - I was loose with my lingo, meant pushed in...

 

[Ferryman]

Hi guys, sorry for popping in but this sounds like a lack of brakepressure.
How's the pump? Does it stop after -say- 10 seconds when ignition is switched on?
How's the accumulator, depressurized?
Without these you need an elephant's foot to stop the RRC.
Apart from the McD. straws these could be a reason for the lady to leave it at the dealer's.(pretty expensive parts)
Tony.

 

[p m]

Hi guys, sorry for popping in but this sounds like a lack of brakepressure.
How's the pump? Does it stop after -say- 10 seconds when ignition is switched on?

IIRC, 45 seconds is acceptable.