97 d1 running warm, clogged cats?

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
I just replaced the radiator & thermostat and am still getting readings in 210 degree range at the termostat housing. (normal driving speeds with or without a/c)

my 96 d1 readings are usually in the 185 degree range for the same type of driving.

I know that the cats are coated with carbon (i am getting the codes that the cats are bad), but would this cause it to run hot? and how can i check....I have read check vacuum at idle and at increase rpm and if you get a drop (back pressure) in the reading probably clogged cats. What line should i connect to for this check?

I am debating removing or replacing the cats???? pros and cons....this truck is a hunting rig and is mainly used in the mtns on private land....
 

agbuckle98

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
1,831
1
Are you sure the water pump is circulating coolant properly? I had a water pump where the impeller just fell right off, but the pump looked perfect from the outside, no leaking at all.
 

Jaime

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
641
0
NJ
Is it possible that you had a mental fart and put the thermostat in backwards?
 

archaeology_student

Well-known member
Jul 31, 2007
141
0
Vancouver, B.C., Canada
What about the fan not kicking in? My '95 D1 has started red-lining lots in the last two days (requiring a lot of pull-overs and popping the hood). Coolant level looks fine... going up any inclines has the needle climb into the top of the gauge.

I noticed that the fan is not coming on all the time, nor staying on. It only came on when I put the vehicle in park at a stall, but the moment I shut the engine off the fan stopped. My '99 D1 has the fan stay on even after I've shut the engine off.

Any suggestions?
 

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
i also replaced the clutch fan....also the twin electric fans work when the a/c is on and were coming on when i was climbing in the mtns. prior to replacing the radiator.

I will double check the thermostat.

i am pretty sure the water pump is working...i have a coolant flush port on the lines to the heater core and when i started it up after refilling the coolant i forgot to put the cap on this line and it started spraying coolant out the line...so i assume the pump was working fine.
 
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garrett

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2004
10,931
5
53
Middleburg, VA
www.blackdogmobility.com
agbuckle98 said:
Are you sure the water pump is circulating coolant properly? I had a water pump where the impeller just fell right off, but the pump looked perfect from the outside, no leaking at all.

I have a feeling this is what has happened to my DI. It heats up within a few minutes. Radiator is good, t-stat is new, fan clutch is new and it doesn't leak anywhere. I actually HOPE that's what it is. Cheap and relatively easy fix.

Fucking rovers.
 

RRCNicky

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2006
533
0
Had a similar problem with my 95 RRC...ended up dropping a 160 degree thermostat in it from Autozone and problem went away. Masked or cured, I don't know, just know it quit getting hot!
 

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
i am getting the p0420 code ...Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

the cats are fairly new, but one of the new 02 sensor came unplugged and it ran rich in open loop for some time until i figured it was the connection.

so clogged cat (bank 1) = running warm?

it also does not like to run over 70 mph...it does have 32's with hannibal roof tent and stock gearing.
 
B

bluejayrover

Guest
How many miles?? May need to be re-cored. My first radiator went with about 80K on and now the current one has just over 120K on it. I hear its pretty typical for them to go. I still have my first one so I can do a custom re-core on it for high temps which we need here for those Death valley trips.

BTW. I hardly ever hear my fan come on my 95 D1 except with the AC on. One day it came on and never went off until I pulled the fuse. Put the fuse back in and it seems fine. It never is on when the engine is off, so I knew that was a strange one.

Good luck!
 

agbuckle98

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
1,831
1
tomelroy said:
it also does not like to run over 70 mph...it does have 32's with hannibal roof tent and stock gearing.
well no shit, it's surprising you can get to 70 at all! in fact, with 32's and stock gears, you're doing more like 75 - 77 mph.
 

varova87

Well-known member
Mar 21, 2006
3,558
0
Texas
agbuckle98 said:
well no shit, it's surprising you can get to 70 at all! in fact, with 32's and stock gears, you're doing more like 75 - 77 mph.

sorry, I call BS on this.

my 97 d1 had an ARB front, 32" BFGs with steel wheels, and at least 100 lbs of tools, gear etc in the back at all times. on camping trips, the hannibal was loaded with a tent and more gear.

fully loaded and stock gearing I could run 80 all day long on the interstate, even up to 85 to pass with no problem.

why i ever sold that thing for this POS D2, i'll never know...

bottom line, if a 32" tire and a rack/tent combo stop you at 70 mph, you have other problems.
 

agbuckle98

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
1,831
1
varova87 said:
sorry, I call BS on this.

my 97 d1 had an ARB front, 32" BFGs with steel wheels, and at least 100 lbs of tools, gear etc in the back at all times. on camping trips, the hannibal was loaded with a tent and more gear.

fully loaded and stock gearing I could run 80 all day long on the interstate, even up to 85 to pass with no problem.

why i ever sold that thing for this POS D2, i'll never know...

bottom line, if a 32" tire and a rack/tent combo stop you at 70 mph, you have other problems.
this is just a testament to the INCONSISTENCY of the Rover build quality. My '98 D1 sucks balls on the highway, but my '95 LWB (which I no longer have :banghead: ) seemed to have a bottomless well of torque no matter what it was loaded with or what speed you were going.