97 disco 1 SD need help

[Disoteka]

Project car. Been sitting for 4 years

took out the fuel changed the pump new plugs and wires

it starts but has a rough idle

exhaust smells nasty with white smoke. Throwing a P1313 code. Low oil pressure light on.

i am going to change the oil and drop the pan to see if any sludge is clogging up the pump.
But other than that I cleaned the MAF and it still shows 0%.
Before I start pouring money into this project am I missing something simple here

 

[boxster]

How many miles? Did you do a compression test? Can you install an oil pressure gauge to verify psi. If you can get fuel pressure tool to verify fuel pressure.

 

[boxster]

How many miles? Did you do a compression test? Can you install an oil pressure gauge to verify psi. If you can get fuel pressure tool to verify fuel pressure.

Pull the spark plug wires while running to isolate misfire.

 

[Disoteka]

How many miles? Did you do a compression test? Can you install an oil pressure gauge to verify psi. If you can get fuel pressure tool to verify fuel pressure.

I am going to do a compression test.
Going to rent or buy a fuel and oil gauge
Will update soon.
Thank you

 

[DiscoClay]

Also: Drain the tank... put clean gas in it.. and hardwire the pump to cycle some fuel with LOTS of injector cleaner... continuously.

I suppose you can rig this via the fuel pump relay. Or just make an externally powered plug for the fuel pump.

Any varnish in that fuel system can gum up the injectors and possibly the regulator (leading to stuck injectors.. )

 

[Disoteka]

Also: Drain the tank... put clean gas in it.. and hardwire the pump to cycle some fuel with LOTS of injector cleaner... continuously.

I suppose you can rig this via the fuel pump relay. Or just make an externally powered plug for the fuel pump.

Any varnish in that fuel system can gum up the injectors and possibly the regulator (leading to stuck injectors.. )

Update:

i have fuel pressure
I have spark
Took out the brand new spark plugs and noticed them all look good.

going to look at the reluctor ring.

on the OBD2 scanner the MAF still shows 0%

 

[DiscoClay]

By off chance, did you check the injectors? There is an injector tester called a Noid tester..there are a zillion cheapo chinese noid kits on amz (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-5612-11-Piece-Noid-Light/dp/B000OUX9R2 ).. its basically just an individual test light that checks to see if your injector is getting the firing signal from the 'puter. It does NOT test the actual injector.

 

[kris812]

FYI on torque pro app, I get about 0.2 at idle and 1.2 WOT on my MAF sensors.. Ya I have several of them now. Used is your friend, new ones are NOT!!!

Have you tried it without the MAF plugged in?

 

[DiscoClay]

I also had a bad TPS.. it was worn out (physically) in the middle of the range... was good on the idle side and above about 1/4 throttle.. boy did that throw the computer outta wack

 

[roverchef]

Did you ever run a compression test?

 

[DiscoClay]

Nope. It didn't act like low compression. And I imagine my engine has pretty loose compression at this point: 200k miles. I'm looking at piecing together a 300 buick based stroker to do a full rebuild at some point. But, I want to rebuild or buy an another r380+lt230 as well. At that time, an eaton or air locker for both front and rear diffs also. Not an overnight project.

On the engine, it seems the part that needs to get sorted (in my head, anyways) is the block and crank front and rear config..

The Buick 300 crank is compatible with the 3.5/3.9/4.2 block but.... I really like the idea of a well-sleeved thor 4.6 with cross-bolted mains and distributorless ignition. The problem is the "long snout vs. Short snout" issue. Also, the Buick has a thicker rear crank flange.. so the depth [fore-aft] pushes the flywheel back [causing starter depth issues] and apparently the rear main seal needs a solution as well.

I think these could all be sorted with a good custom crank cutter... and I live in Nascar County so... I should be able to find someone to shower with Benjamins...

In the currently active front driveshaft thread there is a good description of the reason for all the lash in the lt230 output shafts.. I wonder if there's a modern fix/mod/upgrade for that? .

Anways back to the problem at hand!

 

[Disoteka]

I got it running but still have that code p1313
And now it has a loud “rover tick “. I really like this Rover 96 disco nonsunroofs and it’s white my fav.

thinking of just pulling the engine. And taking my time with it.

i am going to spend more time on my 95 disco.
Thank you all for the help

 

[DiscoClay]

Non Sunroofs. Yeah, that cures 2/3 of the rust (or more). The injectors are pretty loud. I always thought that was not just the valve slapping or the coil flexing.. I figured its due to the single large squirt hitting the top of the intake valve.

Sometimes the ticking is that damned vacuum pump/solenoid on the charcoal can. I don't know much about it, so I may be butchering that description.. but it gets pretty "ticky" sometimes.

As imperfect as the 14CUX+distributor is.. I do like it's simplicity.. though it would be really handy to remap it on the fly based on my actual configuration and usage model, without having to pay a nice British fellow ~$600 for an ancient $5 PROM mapped with assumption and experience.

 

[Knightspirit]

I got it running but still have that code p1313
And now it has a loud “rover tick “. I really like this Rover 96 disco nonsunroofs and it’s white my fav.

thinking of just pulling the engine. And taking my time with it.

i am going to spend more time on my 95 disco.
Thank you all for the help

I have a '99 SD - white also! And I have the same ticking - comes and goes. Haven't tracked it down yet. Working on a new motor - so not a priority at this point, but sure wish I knew what it was...

 

[boxster]

My thoughts on the ticking sound is worn out valve train parts, cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, low oil pressure and there’s the slipped liner issue however if there’s no overheating disregard it. My 97 D1 has 320,000 and still runs with the tick.

 

[DiscoClay]

The injectors are loud. The carbon filter can has that valve[pump?] On it that can tick really loud.

If the ticking is at:
1. full engine speed [rpm] or more then it could be a rod bearing, or an accessory
2. Half engine speed then it could be lifter-pushrod-rocker-valve or injector
3. If it's not aligned with engine speed then it could be that canister valve/pump (i don't rem what it is, but its on top of the can on the starboard side inner fender on the NAS version]. You can unplug it and it will shut up.. though that may cause fuel tank pressure problems? Maybe someone can correct me on this.

 

[DiscoClay]

My thoughts on the ticking sound is worn out valve train parts, cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, low oil pressure and there’s the slipped liner issue however if there’s no overheating disregard it. My 97 D1 has 320,000 and still runs with the tick.

Right! The Sliding liner problem.
One other possible culprit is the outer oil pump rotor/gear.. I've read that they can break [often into multiple pieces].. when they do, they [admirably!!] continue functioning but with lower pressure.. these can click.

 

[Disoteka]

Update did a compression check and #1 zero pressure #5 zero compression.

 

[DiscoClay]

yikes. that's a bottom end reboot then?

 

[LRDONE]

Update did a compression check and #1 zero pressure #5 zero compression.

Kinda looks like a head gasket if you ask me. The whole bank is low.