99 Discovery 1 SD Questions

[danibarra]

Hi, some questions and looking for advice. I purchased a 99 Disco 1 SD and it has its issues which I knew and will be addressing. When purchased it turned on, and "drove" but would not idle correctly. Brakes would need to be slammed to the floor for the car to stop. Towed the car back to my place, but was forced to park it on the sloped driveway at that time.

Goal is to move it to a flat level to begin fixing the main issues. So, my dashboard is like a Christmas tree and will address each issue. I got a new battery (which is not connected at the moment), and when I start the car it begins with a high idle at 3k, and then dies within 4 seconds. Before, the car would just high idle at 3krpm and would adjust when in drive. I will do adaptive value resets to and etc to fix this. Also, I do have a light ticking coming from the engine which I will tackle when the time comes.
Other lights on are srs, oil light, anti lock, and battery light.

That being said, will be taking alternator out and testing at Autozone to make sure its not faulty. If so, I am undecided if I should move the car to the backyard where it is flat but requires a little bit of driving or attempt to do it on the sloped driveway. Maybe add some Marvel Mystery Oil before moving car to the backyard.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[German Gruner]

I would at first check oil indicator pressure issue. Ticking noise can be produced by oil pressure absence.
Regards

 

[danibarra]

I would at first check oil indicator pressure issue. Ticking noise can be produced by oil pressure absence.
Regards

Okay, I will do oil change first with 15w-40w and going to add Glowshift adapter to check oil pressure and for future usage.

 

[Tugela]

If you don't already have one, buy an OBD-2 Bluetooth dongle (like the OBDLink LX), pair it to the Torque app on your phone, and that will open a window into understanding what's going on with the vehicle. You can read codes, see live sensor data, etc.

Most likely culprit for the antilock light is a sensor. Those are inexpensive to buy and easy to replace.

 

[danibarra]

If you don't already have one, buy an OBD-2 Bluetooth dongle (like the OBDLink LX), pair it to the Torque app on your phone, and that will open a window into understanding what's going on with the vehicle. You can read codes, see live sensor data, etc.

Most likely culprit for the antilock light is a sensor. Those are inexpensive to buy and easy to replace.

Yeah, I have the OBD Link LX with codes that I got from the Torque app being P1314, P1190, P1316. I already got new spark plugs and wires ready to be installed.

For anti lock light, I most likely will disable ABS with the issues I have been reading up on the Discovery 1. Hopefully a brake bleed is all that is needed since car sat for almost 2 years to fix brake issues.

 

[Tugela]

Yeah, I have the OBD Link LX with codes that I got from the Torque app being P1314, P1190, P1316. I already got new spark plugs and wires ready to be installed.

For anti lock light, I most likely will disable ABS with the issues I have been reading up on the Discovery 1. Hopefully a brake bleed is all that is needed since car sat for almost 2 years to fix brake issues.

Good stuff. Consider replacing the flexible brake lines while you're at it. If they're the originals, it's long past time. Braided stainless are supposed to reduce line flex but I can't tell the difference. The fluid flush and bleed will help.

 

[danibarra]

Good stuff. Consider replacing the flexible brake lines while you're at it. If they're the originals, it's long past time. Braided stainless are supposed to reduce line flex but I can't tell the difference. The fluid flush and bleed will help.

Thanks for the advice. I will be getting 2 plus inch braided once I move truck to backyard. I will also be lifting truck later down the year. Brake lines hopefully should be good enough for this small travel.

Going to order the sandwich adapter right now and an oil pressure gauge.

 

[kris812]

Focus on oil pressure first!

If you can't get pressure, might need rebuild or more work; so best to start here!

As for the braided brake lines I 100% agree. I noticed a difference, however one of my old lines was expanding...

High idle, vacuum leaks!

Dieing after 4 seconds... Fuel pump.. most likely the tube inside is cracked that feeds up from the pump.. You'll start and immediately run out of fuel pressure.. Ask me HOW many times I've had this tube brake!

 

[danibarra]

Focus on oil pressure first!

If you can't get pressure, might need rebuild or more work; so best to start here!

As for the braided brake lines I 100% agree. I noticed a difference, however one of my old lines was expanding...

High idle, vacuum leaks!

Dieing after 4 seconds... Fuel pump.. most likely the tube inside is cracked that feeds up from the pump.. You'll start and immediately run out of fuel pressure.. Ask me HOW many times I've had this tube brake!

Yeah, already ordered my engine re build parts.

Doing everything as precaution as previous owner didn't specify any engine rework. Just want to get fresh oil in so I can move car to backyard to actually be able to work on it on a level surface.

I don't think it is fuel pump as previous owner told me its new, but will check all that area as pre caution, car was not dying before new battery and adaptive reset. Going to be a fun project though!

 

[danibarra]

UPDATE

I just did an oil change with Rotella t4 15W-40 and oil light went out.
Did this to be able to move car to backyard and noticed battery light went out. Other than that, I did a quick brake bleed as well.

Things I noticed when I drove the car to the back. I switched MAF sensor to OEM and cleaned the IACV and reset adaptive values. Still high idle, but will blame vacuum leak until I dive into the engine.

My car shoots to 3k rpm and stay around 2-3k rpm when on drive and 1.2k on reverse with hardly any brakes. I still have to slam brakes to floor to get some light stoppage. Luckily no cars around when I had to drive on the street to my side entrance.

Now I got my car on a level surface and will begin engine overhaul and look over everything.

Main goal for the upcoming months will be to get engine overhaul complete, correct idle and working brakes.

 

[DiscoDonwen]

Did you find anything out for high idle? My car goes to 2500 rpm when in park. In drive it sits about 1-1.5 rpm. But braking is not fun

 

[kris812]

Did you find anything out for high idle? My car goes to 2500 rpm when in park. In drive it sits about 1-1.5 rpm. But braking is not fun

If your braking is bad, and high idle.. I suspect a bad hose going to the brake booster, or a bad booster itself.

Fix the idle, might fix brakes at same time..

 

[danibarra]

Did you find anything out for high idle? My car goes to 2500 rpm when in park. In drive it sits about 1-1.5 rpm. But braking is not fun

I have the exact same problem as you, high RPM around 2500-3000 in park and in drive it sits at 1-1.5 rpm and car does not stop.

I am currently giving the engine a refresh build as the previous owner did not really provide any maintenance records and engine bay look shotty. So I am replacing lifters, pusher rods, cam shafts, new gaskets, water pump, and oil pump just to be safe. Also replacing radiator and hosing, and just ordered new plenum hosing, and vacuum lines. For brakes, I ordered 2+ inch stainless lines for the future lift and will see if that helps once I bleed all lines. I might have a bad booster but not sure as I just moved my car to my backyard to begin working on it and did not really investigate the braking issue, but my master cylinder is holding the brake fluid so I will be checking brake booster when the time comes.

If you want, you can message me to keep contact and I will update you as I progress to see if I fix issue.

 

[kris812]

Hold the brake down while starting the truck.. If pedal goes down more, booster is working..

Turn off key/engine with the brake pedal down, pedal should go UP on your foot.. If so booster is good.

I mean it's a simple test.. other thing to do is get a vacuum pump and make sure booster holds vacuum..

Or you have hissing noises inside when WOT or punching it.. That's a booster leaking..

 

[StangGT5]

This probably isnt your leak, but I have to share an experience I had with a Discovery 1 with a vacuum leak and hard brakes. The previous owner's mechanic replaced a master cylinder.

I pulled the MC to replace the booster and found that the "mechanic" did not reinstall the rubber o-ring between the MC and the booster. That's all the problem was, a cheap piece of rubber.

 

[danibarra]

Thanks for the tip @StangGT5 ! Will be checking it out once I start putting everything back together.

 

[kris812]

I'm actually in the process of changing my master cylinder right now.

My ghetto man test for that o-ring was to wrap a wet towel around that master to booster flange and check idle speed and short-term fuel trim.

To note when I reinstall this master again, I'm putting black wheel grease on that o-ring again.

 

[kris812]

It's also worth checking to make sure that there isn't two o rings in there. Your ring will get stuck in the booster, And sometimes the Masters come with the o-ring already on them. So I can see how a double o-ring would happen

 

[danibarra]

Good to know @kris812 ! Hopefully my booster is good, but time will tell. Need to get this engine refresh done.

 

[kris812]