A-frame ball joint

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Sergei

Guest
Hi

I am looking for hands-on experience on replacing a-frame ball joint. While i found this http://www.comcen.com.au/~blumx/techDIY.htm , with help from search engines, I'd still like to hear experiences on how to do it and how it went.

Looks like it could be potential cure for clunk that i keep getting even after putting new driveshafts and tightening and replacing bolts and bushings in front. Plus truck got 10 yrs on it, so i think its good time for replacement there anyway.

Thank you in advance :)
 

marc olivares

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,535
0
i've found it to be easier to take the whole upper arm out first.
remove the arms from the center ball joint section.
remove the retaining bolts for the ball joint (may have to grind off and re-drill)
press out joint. and install. the worst part may be separating the arms, as the bolts get hella rusty. a little heat and a lot of PB blaster will help.


marc
 
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Sergei

Guest
Thanks Marc!

Leigh - it sounds like nasty bang, when you deccelerating with brakes too hard or accelerating from stop too hard. It also sometime clunks when you doing more or less sharp turns and road isnt flat surfaced. One of potential causes is that damn thing worns away enough to wiggle. I am not willing to sit under truck and watch a-frame wiggling, so i figued that i might as well replace joint, since its old anyway, and it might be cure for this nasty sound. Only other source i can think of for my truck is slack in differential, so shaft moves before differential starts. But according to many people (thanks Curtis for reply on EE board, btw) such slack is normal and should be there.
 
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ShaunP

Guest
The A frame ball joint is the cause of much of the slack in the Drive train of a Disco. I find that Australian cars need them at about 100k km thats 60k miles for you blokes. The way to change then is to un bolt the houseing from the a frame, drift it out of the axle mount and press the joint out of the houseing. Sometimes you need to heat the housing. I'm not sure if you can buy Maxi-Drive joints in the US,if you can these are the ones to use. They are greasable and adjustable, they last much better than OEM. Maybe Maxi-drive would mail you one from Australia, price is $120 AUD.
 
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Sergei

Guest
Thanks Shaun. I am getting to that conclusion too, but still havent got around to install replacement - got adjustable BM-made one from DAP-Inc.

I will sniff around local shops to get someone to do that replacement for me, since i still need to replace bushings on rear arms and frame. If someone will get it done for like 150$ i would gladly pay, since i remember how much pain it was to deal with front bushings (had them all replaced by myself).
 
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beemer

Guest
Loose A-arm ball joint

Sergei, i spent some time, drilled and tapped the A arm cap and all tie rods then added zerk fittings. On lifetime joints the factory does not cut a groove around the ball for grease to pass into the grease sack. You have to compress the joint ( unseat) then grease will go thru to the sack. At 94K everything is tight. Cheaper to prevent than replace. Carl...o&o>...
 

LRWheelman

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2004
93
0
56
Stoutland,MO,USA
Hello Sergei, The Dap adjustable/greasable joint is the one to use. Just get comfortable under the truck, remove the A-frame, take it out & fix it. Where did you get your rear driveshaft? No vibe, I hope, eh? Cured mine to about 110 MPH. Couldn't bring myself to test above that! Good Luck, and Thank You! LRW.
 
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Sergei

Guest
Now thats a reanimated thread :)

Joint been replaced since :) Not that it helped much, but it made me feel better.

Lonnie - me rear shaft is made by TW :) Of course they got new design for u-joints like 2 months after i got mine, but hell - its still better than nearly disintegrated rubber in flex blob.
 

LRWheelman

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2004
93
0
56
Stoutland,MO,USA
Sergei, Thank You! I've heard the "Woods" drive shafts are the best! I'm gonna need to look @ front one shortly. Congrats on a-frame joint R&R, did you do it yourself? If so, was it a PITA? Yep, thats another gonna need for me. If You have a moment, I would like to pick your brain about a non Rover related problem (My J.A.Pan truck) that I believe You may be able to answer? Thank You, LRW.
 
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Sergei

Guest
It was not big PITA, thankfully very same month LE issue had full job described quite nicely with pictures :)
But it was dirty and sweaty, as most of those under-body jobs.

Shafts from TW - dunno about best, but they do have very good CS (they literally worked overtime to help me with few moments when i thought there are issues with shaft) in addition to be pretty fast on building and shipping. And prices arent that bad either. So i got front one from them as well :)

About japan truck - just shoot me PM or email, and i will try to answer :)
 
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timbo

Guest
when I had mine replaced, the shop couldn't get it out because it was rusted in. Thus, they took it to a place with a big press, and still couldn't get it out. Then they took it to some engineering joint with an even bigger press and finally got it out. Still cost me what they quoted by mouth though. it's a great place that values the customer.