A little brake help please...

[bigred]

I don't even really know how to describe this shit...

DII - Brakes squealed on the way home from an off road trip last weekend. On the way home from work mid week, they suddenly went out - pedal to the floor. I parked it and didn't have a chance to look at it until just now. It seems that somehow, on the right front wheel, the clip on the inside pad broke or came loose. The pad slid out of the caliper, and got wedged down between the rotor and the frame that the caliper bolts to. (this would probably explain the smoke I saw when I parked it ). The upper piston is now loose, and feels like it is just being held in by the boot, and the boot on the bottom piston is torn. When I try to push the top piston back into place, it just squirts brake fluid all over the place.
Two questions - First, how can I get the pad out from between the rotor and that frame? I tried beating it out with a screwdriver and sledge, and it didn't budge.
Second - Will I now be needing a new caliper in addition to the pads I was ready to put on? BTW, the backside of the rotor doesn't look too bad for some reason.

Thanks.

 

[Herkvet]

It sounds like something more than just that clip failed for the pad to dislodge from it's guide channels and slip out of the caliper.
IMHO--I'd replace the whole caliper. Can you get the caliper off?

 

[I HATE PONIES]

I would think there had to be a lot of play somewhere to push the caliper pistons back far enough to let a pad fall out. Have you checked the wheel bearing, mounting bolts ect ect. To get the pad out you will have to take the caliper off and then remove the caliper cage bolts. If it wont come off try turning the hub backwards while you hit it. If you are getting brake fluid from the caliper you will need a new one or rebuild the one you have. When the brakes went to the floor the piston was pushed out of the caliper because there was no pad there. It is nearly impossible to just put it back in without it leaking.

 

[bigred]

It doesn't feel like there is any play anywhere. I don't know what happened. To replace the caliper, will I end up having to bleed the whole brake system?
What's the best source for calipers for a dII? Rovers North?

 

[I HATE PONIES]

If the brakes were pumped or pushed and released while the piston was out of the caliper then you will probably need to bleed the entire system. Its a quick and easy job that is well worth the effort for the peace of mind. Just follow the rave cd and do each step in order.

 

[garrett]

check here for calipers: www.rockauto.com you would have to send your core back, but if they are Cardone remans they are plenty good to use. Advance and some of the other places carry Cardone as well. they run about $51 for a DI. not sure on DIIs.
just disconnect the line at the caliper and get that thing off and have a look at what happened.
you can easily bleed the whole system in 15 min with your wife in the drivers seat.

 

[bigred]

Cool. Thanks G. I think my wife would prefer to toss my piece off of a cliff at this point..

 

[garrett]

which "piece"? $55 at Rock Auto for the part. not bad. maybe local would be the same.
i just had my passenger side manifold replaced with gaskets, y pipe gaskets and some welding on the exhaust done to my '99. fan cluth today and power steering pump after that.
first real work done on the truck, so i am not going to bitch now. maybe later.

 

[bigred]

There always seems to be something wrong. If it weren't my daily driver it wouldn't piss me off so much. It would love to be able to have a local rover mechanic that I could drop my truck off with and have everything fixed, tightened, and straightened. My next mod may be a campfire in the back seat.

 

[gmookher]

I suppose if the pads wore down to just the metal plate it could happen that the pad slipped out but afaik most calipers are designed for safety reasons to ensure the pad cant twist itself out in that space. Thats a serious safety hazard, I'd tale a picture of what happend for my own records, and probably let the folks at LRNA know too.

I have used both the cardone and the dealer parts on my 'other car' and while the cardone stuff fit and worked, it was NOT the same part, different casing and all, smaller, dinkier. In that car's case, I needed stock at a minimum, and ended up paying more for better. In the case of a rover it probably doesnt matter.

I'd take this opportunity to look at the other 3 brakes too, and depending on how long its been, not a bad idea to bleed all four corners and put fresh fluid in the master if you depend on the rigg and plan to keep it. any local shop can do this.

 

[bigred]

Finally got the pad out from between the rotor and cage. It looks as if the rotor is gouged to shit now. Where is the best source for new rotors and is it actually worth it to do the cross-drilled? I don't think that heat build up has ever been an issue for me. Also, does anyone know the what type of screw it is that holds the rotor on?

 

[bigred]

Also, will I need to bleed all 4 corners if fluid has leaked out of this one caliper, or can I just bleed that corner?

 

[bigred]

Anyone?
NAPA going to do me allright?
They've got premiums as well. Anyone know if it makes a difference?

 

[Kacers]

The screw on the rotor is a #4 pozi-drive. Or use the biggest philips bit you have.

I am sure opinions vary on rotors. I haven't heard much bad about DBA - thats what I'm buying. I'd avoid the parts store 'generic' stuff.

You likely need to bleed all 4 brakes if you drove it until they were gone.

AndrewT

 

[bigred]

Thanks Andrew.

 

[JohnMc]

Ever consider salvaged parts? I purchased a rotor from a salvage yard as a replacement for about $85 delivered. Installed the caliper and bled the entire system on a Saturday afternoon. Caliper arrived well packaged and obviously tested. Has been working well ever since (two years now).

Afterwards, I rebuilt the original caliper with a kit I purchased from the dealership. Kit cost me $120 and all I got was new pistons, rings and clips.

JohnMc

I use www.car-part.com in my search for salvaged parts.