about to tear apart my hubs, what am I missing?

[jms]

1998 Discovery

Started making some nasy grinding noises from the front driver's side wheel. I assume it either has to be bad bearings or a bad cv joint, obviously I would rather have it be the first.

I plan on tearing it down to the point where I can inspect the CV joint and then reasembling with new bearings no matter what just because I'm allready in there and if it needs a new CV then so be it I guess.

I am about to purchase the following parts and just wanted to make sure I am not missing anything first.

1x Hub Gasket: PN#571752
1x Lock Washer: PN#FTC3179
1x Hub Oil Seal: PN#FTC4785 (I am seeing three but my research tells me this is the right one, am I right or wrong??)
2x Bearing Sets: PN#RTC3429 (one for the outer and one for the inner, they are the same right?)
1x Stub Axle Gasket: PN#FTC3648

Would all that stuff cover it parts wise and are all those parts numbers right? If I wind up needing new CV parts I'll worry about getting them later, for now I'm just crossing my fingers and hoping that bearings will do the trick.

Thank you,
James

 

[D Chapman]

Your parts list seems complete. To fix it, you will need the following tools:

13mm, 12 point socket
Snap ring pliers
Hub nut tool (2 1/16" socket)
17mm socket
and maybe a dead blow hammer to get the hub off the CV stub shaft. Sometimes these can get stuck on by rust and debree.

Also, you will need either grease or thick oil to refill the swivel ball, and bearing grease.

Things that may help in the process include, hand cleaner, shop towels, case of beer, cigar, and a punching bag.

 

[jms]

Thank you,

I have all the tools (well I'm ordering the hub tool with the parts) and have the genuine land rover swivel ball grease on hand as well. I've got a shop manual too so I'm not terribly worried about getting it all back together.

Oh, am I going to loose any differential oil or anything when I pull the axle out with the CV joint? Trying to figure out how all that works in my head, nothing I have read says you have to top it back off after doing this job but I was unsure if it was so obvious that no one bothers to mention it. Sorry I'm just a little paranoid because the discovery is currently my only mode of transport and once I have it taken apart I won't have the ability to go anywhere for more parts and/or fluids.

If I can just get another confirmation or two on those part numbers I guess I will go ahead and order everything tomorow.

 

[D Chapman]

You should not loose any diff oil. But, it's not a bad idea to change it while your dirty, 15 minute job.

 

[jms]

good point

 

[AlanB]

Bearings are Timken Set 37 available at any autoparts place, alot cheaper than ordering through the rover parts places.

 

[jms]

Thanks, I just picked up a Timken set locally and am now just waiting on the seals and hub nut tool.

Okay now for something else..... aparantly its my Disco's week to start misbehaving. I drove to work today because I really had no other choice and it isn't driving that bad just a little noisy plus its only 5 miles. Anyway sometimes when I hit the breaks now the pedal feels very soft, it goes down alot further than norma, I still get stopped and if when I feel its soft and I pump it again real fast it goes back to being firm. I wouldn't imagine this could be related to the griding noise coming from the wheel but I would also sort of like to think the rover isn't suffering from to problems at once (though I guess stranger things have probablly happened )

Thanks guys.

 

[neil30076]

After a short drive with a lot of braking, check each front wheel, is one much hotter that the other?
Jack up each front wheel , and give it a good spin. Listen for noises.
Sounds like you have a seized wheel bearing that is overheating, overheating the brake rotor, and cooking the brake fluid, and making the brakes mushy!
Been there, seen it, done that!

 

[antichrist]

Perhaps someone else can say for sure if they will fit your application, but on my 95 I used the Defender style double lip oil seal (RTC3511). Offeres better protection.

 

[jms]

thanks neil, yeah I'm pretty confident the bearings are toasted in there hence my first question. The hub is getting hotter than the others but I never thought about it heating the brake fluid as well. Makes sense, hopefully fixing the first problem will indeed fix the second as well.

Antichrist (great screen name - assuming you took it from 'the gods must be crazy'), I allready ordered the grease seal but I will try and remember that for the future.

 

[AlanB]

Here's a write-up on the front bearing replacement:

http://www.4x4wire.com/rover/maintenance/front_axle/wheel_bearings/

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Yes definately if the bearings are going bad, this will affect the braking. Just before one of my front bearings went south, I expereinced the same soft-pedal issue. Replaced the bearing and braking was back to normal. U R not alone.

 

[FIVESPDDISCO]

the funny bolts that holds the calibers on are 12 point 1/2 inch wrench. not revers torks i have a set if you want to buy them. never use.

 

[gardrover]

Along these lines,

Does anyone know about on the rear hub assembly what size the nuts that attach the sensor ring to the rotor are?

they have to be nyloc nuts right?

 

[antichrist]

snip
Antichrist (great screen name - assuming you took it from 'the gods must be crazy'), I allready ordered the grease seal but I will try and remember that for the future.

Friends dubbed my Air Portable that when they saw the tags Vermont gave me.

 

[neil30076]

sockets needed

The nylocs are 10 or 11mm and should be replaced, not reused, the caliper bolts are 13mm and you need a 12point socket to avoid rounding the edges of the bolts, you also need a 17 mm socket, and if you are replacing rotors, a 19mm socket. You will need a good long breaker bar.
good luck
neil

 

[bri]

The nylocs are 10 or 11mm and should be replaced, not reused, the caliper bolts are 13mm and you need a 12point socket to avoid rounding the edges of the bolts, you also need a 17 mm socket, and if you are replacing rotors, a 19mm socket. You will need a good long breaker bar.
good luck
neil

ID=6mm, 1.0 pitch, OD 10mm on the ABS sensor ring stud nuts. n Yes nyloc.

 

[jms]

okay, its torn apart but as you can see the inner piece of the inner bearing is still on the stub axle and unfortunatly it seems like it wants to stay there.

Any advice on how I can get it off, it really seems to be stuck.

 

[bri]

Hmm. Well, since I have not dealth with this particular stuck item, I am not exactly sure, but if that is the inner portion of the bearing stuck on there you do not necessarily care about its condition when it comes off. Did the bearings just drop out? At the same time you do no want to damage what is beneath it. You might try carfully wrenching it off or if necessary cutting partially through it (note-- partially) to get it off.

Also, I have heard that you should replace bearings, not reuse them. What if the bearings look fine? Should you reuse them? Do they need to go back in the exact same spot?

Are the races replacable? Should you replace them while in there?

Brian

 

[jms]

its off now but the stub axle isn't salvagable. I started another thread about this: http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4135