about to whip out my front shaft

[jamsandwich]

haha i couldnt resist a cheesy title.

im about to pull my front drivesaft from my d2 to get it rebuilt with greasable joints.

what do i need to mark on the shaft as i need to lock the t case and 2 wheel limp to go to work tommorow and bring it there?

does it need to line back up somehow, im kinda new, any help would be great

 

[netjaws]

you shouldn't mark your shaft.

 

[PHARAOHDISCO]

Nothing. But as an extra precaution you could get your driveshaft rebalanced after the rebuild. I have never done it though, but some do. You could just mount it back after the rebuild and should you sense any vibrations, just take it out again and have it rebalanced.

 

[jamsandwich]

really?

RAVE says "if same components to be refitted, reference mark propeller shaft and mating components."

also, what is the best replacement for the non greasable joint in a d2?

 

[justinhaaga]

if you are rebuilding it you need to mark the flange postions so when you put it back on the balance is "perfect" if a shop is doing it they will know this... you could have it rebalanced but it's not really nessicary.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

precision 344 is the correct joint

 

[UK 4X4]

If you have no vibes before.....then mark and re-install in the same position.

if you have vibes now.....try it 180 deg off, you never know you may be lucky.....

 

[scottjal]

Mark it. I was cheap last time and just took a spray can and put a strip across the flange, U joint, slip sleeve and other U joint and flange.

 

[edthediscoman]

You are going to be fiddling with your shaft anyway, therefore while youve got your hands on it, be safe and keep it in the same position, so next time you use it, you won't have excessive wobble. (or a bend you didn't have before!)

 

[flyfisher11]

really?

RAVE says "if same components to be refitted, reference mark propeller shaft and mating components."

also, what is the best replacement for the non greasable joint in a d2?

I like spicer but don't have the part # sorry!

Good Luck!

Mike

If your not getting the info you want call Bill at Great Basin Rovers. He will advise you correctly and knowing you are a working college student will probably gladly offer his advise.

 

[rovercanus]

You are going to be fiddling with your shaft anyway, therefore while youve got your hands on it, be safe and keep it in the same position, so next time you use it, you won't have excessive wobble. (or a bend you didn't have before!)

Um, Ed, what exactly are you talking about here big guy?

 

[jamsandwich]

i have vibes at 45-50mph so should i just get it rebalanced?

sorry im such a dumbass, im learning

 

[DannyDisco]

i have vibes at 45-50mph so should i just get it rebalanced?

sorry im such a dumbass, im learning

Mark everything where you remove a u-joint and realign those marks as you put it all together. After you put in the new u-joints find a driveshaft shop and have it balanced anyhow. It'd be a good idea to get a u-joint style rear driveshaft, put in new u-joints and have it balanced as well to get rid of as many vibes as possible.

Some driveline shops have balancers that have a variable speed, if so use the formula:

shaft rpm=[(mph*88)/{(tire dia/12*3.1415)}]*axle ratio

If I typed that in correctly it should get you into the ball park of the shaft's rpm at any given mph that's giving you a vibration. Let the guys at the shop know this to help them find the exact balancing point. If they have the chassis style balancer than just give your truck to them, no one here in town has one so they might be hard to find. Any good machine shop should be able to do it as well.

 

[jamsandwich]

now i need emergency help.

im stripping the nuts using a 14mm and 9/16 wrenches. i pb blasted last night.

whats the trick to getting these off?

am i using the wrong wrench?

 

[bigred]

That's the right size.. try a socket on the front with a box wrench holding the backside.

 

[NHESS81]

More PB blaster too...soak it, let it sit there--word of warning, you may want to make sure your CDL is locked before you take off the front shaft...not sure though, but I took off my rear and for whatever reason, couldnt get it locked up, so it had to sit in the garage for 3 days while I fought with the pilot bushing....and be careful, when you do unhook the shaft, the truck might try to move--chock all four wheels on both sides just to be safe, I unlatched my rear and the damn thing twisted in my hand and started to roll back as the 'parking' brake was effectively removed (by taking off the rear)...just be careful, and work slowly....

 

[TxDII]

If you end up rounding off some of the nuts, Sears sells a set of nut removers that will work. There are two types of these kits, one is shallow and the other is deep. I bought both, but only shallow sockets worked. They cost about $20 for the set. It's worth it though.

 

[jamsandwich]

yeah my neighbor mentioned these. i stripped 2 nuts pretty bad and gave up in fear of damaging the rest. i'll go get those as the place greg mentioned wont take the shaft off for you. i'll end up getting new nuts too im sure.

 

[flyfisher11]

Get at least grade 8 w/ self locking nuts (delrin insert)

Be Safe and chock that beeeotch!

Mike

 

[jamsandwich]

got it off, ive been working 70 hour weeks this summer so i never have time. bringing it in tommorow to get new joints with greaseable fittings, getting it rebalanced

should be good.

but now i got three amigos, maf, and 02s to do.

god damnit