air in heater core

[jreid28]

When I start off I hear air&water going through the heater core. Burped the system and it returns after a while. Never overheats, runs great just annoying. Took the cap off the reservoir and put a gas analyzer to it, after running it for a while there was no measurable gas, however when the cap first came off it read 40,
No loss of coolant.
No coolant in oil.
The local Rover shop said the head gasket was ok, because no gas reading when running for 5 minutes.
Thanks for your help and advise.

 

[The Limey]

I have the same issue...
Did the heads,rad,waterpump and heater core,t-stat...pressure bled the system...Still have it...
Drives me crazy...I hope someone has a answer...

M,

 

[Chris-St Louis]

Your gonna think I am crazy, BUT I would refill the coolant with the front end jacked up when a customers car had this complaint. Always fixed it.

Jacked up like 6 inches to a foot.

 

[jreid28]

thanks I'll give it a try

 

[scottjal]

I will have to try that, I have the same problem. Fluid level isn't changing, but the PO did just put in a new radiator and hoses.

 

[The Limey]

Did that...still gurgles on start up...
truck was @45 degrees just to be sure...Didnt help...

M,

 

[jreid28]

Thanks for all the help,
here is what I did and it seems to have worked.
Reversed the heater hoses
Had the front end 4 feet higher than the rear
Cap off reservoir, plastic plug out of radiator
Ran motor w/ heater on to operating temp.
While running fill reservoir, blew air in reservoir until it came out from top of radiator with no air bubbles, at same time screwed plastic plug back in.
Leveled the car and corrected the amount of fluid in reservoir.
So far so good
Thanks again guys

 

[Chris-St Louis]

Did that...still gurgles on start up...
truck was @45 degrees just to be sure...Didnt help...

M,

Not sure. It worked for me in the field.

Did you run it at operating temp jacked up to cycle the air out?

 

[jreid28]

Not sure. It worked for me in the field.

Did you run it at operating temp jacked up to cycle the air out?

Yes, with the heater on and blowing and both the reservoir cap and plastic plug out.
I think it's important to replace the plastic plug as you are forcing coolant from the reservoir out the top of the radiator, that being the highest point.
One more thing make sure that is the highest point, I had to cut some off the hose where it connected to the T-stat in order to make the radiator top be the highest point.
Hope that helps

 

[The Limey]

Cured!
swapped the heater hoses....gurgle has gone!
m,

 

[Amm134]

Cured!
swapped the heater hoses....gurgle has gone!
m,

Old thread but on topic for me.

When you say swapped, you mean reversed not replaced, correct ?

Any opinions as to why this would work ?

I'm in the process of trying to burp my D2. After having the water pump changed and coolant replaced, I'm having an awful lot of gurgling. Purged out some air thru the expansion tank yesterday but still have gurgling (sounds worse actually).

 

[The Limey]

All to do with the flow in the heater core...yes just reverse the heater hoses over

 

[jreid28]

Bottom line is when burping make sure that the reservoir and the radiator plug are at the highest point when burping (jacking or uphill etc), motor running @ operating temp (you may want to give it some revs to help force out air bubbles from the heater core) and reversing the heater hoses going into heater core.

 

[Amm134]

When you reverse the heater hoses, are you disconecting from the firewall or the end of the hoses by the engine.. does it matter..?

Can someone expand on the whole procedure...?

 

[Discotec]

Things don't change with Land Rover.....We had to put the old 109" Series trucks up at 45 deg. to bleed the brake master cylinder......

This heater thing is a good tip

 

[Discotec]

Things don't change with Land Rover.....We had to put the old 109" Series trucks up at 45 deg. to bleed the brake master cylinder......

This heater thing is a good tip

 

[Olered]

I'm interested in the whole process. I have the gurgling. I'd like to try switching the heater hoses as well. My truck has a yr old water pump, hoses, and t-stat. All gaskets are good. Newer expansion tank/res. I'm thinking something is about to "give" with the heater core. As a coincidence, I'm going to remove the whole middle part of the dash to tidy up my after-market stereo wiring and to see if I can fix the left hot/cold knob that won't turn past the 11 oclock position. How far am I from being able to swap out the heater core with this removed? If I need to remove the console that wouldn't be that bad as I would like to replace the console due to being just plain rurnt!
Thanks

97D1

 

[Olered]

Anyone? Any ideas on how much is left to pull to access the heater core? Can anyone explain the procedure for reversing the hoses?

I was finally able to get under the truck yesterday to see if the pipes were clogged. Question: how far should a wire or coat hanger go up into the pipes? I managed about 3-4 inches. I tried several different sizes of wire but no juice. I tried squeezing the pipes but nothing. I pulled my carpet up on the passenger side floor and the black mat was soaked. It didn't smell of coolant and I could feel no difference in touch, it just felt like water.
Thanks

 

[Amm134]

......... I pulled my carpet up on the passenger side floor and the black mat was soaked. It didn't smell of coolant and I could feel no difference in touch, it just felt like water.
Thanks

Before you go crazy with the AC plugs or looking for a heater core problem... dry out the carpet and floor mat... go thru a car wash and immediately check the floor area for water. You may have a leak around the windshield or firewall. I had this problem and it only occurs with very heavy rain or going thru a car wash.

 

[Olered]

So that is what your problem was?