Another stereo question

[DiscoTech]

I'm upgrading the entire stereo in my 00 D2, to include wiring and all. I searched but could not find any wiring diagram for hard wiring the head unit into the truck. I'm planning on hardwiring the head unit because I read that that was the best way to go at it. I will admit that I have very limited radio installation experience, but I have a few people helping me out who are familiar with installing. If anyone has the link to a hardwire post or any info I would be appreciative. I have the Rave and I'm sure I can figure it out from that, but a write-up from someone that has already done it or some guidance from someone who has already done it would be better. Thanks in advance.

Mike

 

[varova87]

I assume you're hard-wiring the factory unit, correct? thought about going aftermarket since you're running all new lines?

 

[DiscoTech]

No, I'm changing the headunit out as well, I thought I put that in my post, must not have. I'm going to use either a alpine or pioneer premier just have not decided which one yet.

Mike

 

[braves6117]

Its best to run power and ground to your new head unit directly from battery, remember to include an in line fuse.

The only wiring you should pull from the stock harness are the ignition and headlight dimmer. Lets see if I can pull the diagram up.

 

[braves6117]

Here you go, just match up the plugs to what they look like on the drawings since the picture didn't copy.

I verified this in my 04DII



Let me know if you have any Q's. I just finished my overall stereo install.

Also, for the head unit, go with one capable of selecting crossovers or going "active" such as the alpine 9887 or the pioneer premier 800prs, both are very highly regarded and capable of going active.

 

[DiscoTech]

Here you go, just match up the plugs to what they look like on the drawings since the picture didn't copy.

I verified this in my 04DII



Let me know if you have any Q's. I just finished my overall stereo install.

Also, for the head unit, go with one capable of selecting crossovers or going "active" such as the alpine 9887 or the pioneer premier 800prs, both are very highly regarded and capable of going active.

Thanks for the wiring diagram, I'm sure it will make more since once I get the factory headunit out of the truck. Am I just supposed to cut the approriate wites and splice them into the slots on the diagram or what?

As for headunits, I have no idea what you mean when you say 'going active'. Sorry, but stereo equipment has never been a strong suit, but I figure I should do it right, the first time.

Mike

 

[braves6117]

Ok, bear with my post. It’s long but should clear the air a bit regarding installing a car stereo system.


Foremost, there are several different ways you can choose to go about your system install. The first and most common design is going “passive,” and the other is going “active.” Active by definition is purely in reference to the means by which you apply cross-over filters to your different size drivers... Using a crossover after the amplifier is passive. Before the amplifier is active. But before I can describe those, I should ROUGHLY explain what a crossover is.

In a normal 2 way setup consisting of a 6.5 inch woofer and tweeter, you have a crossover which tells the speakers what frequencies to reproduce. You wouldn’t want your tweeter to play low frequencies or your woofer to play high frequencies. Thus, the crossover adjusts the signal to allow the appropriate frequencies to be played by the appropriate speaker.

Having outlined a “crossover,” we’ll move on to a “passive” crossover. A passive crossover is an external unit that adjusts the frequencies the speakers will play and can not be adjusted in any way. Whatever crossover points the external crossover is designed for is the only one that it will use. Think of the widely available “component speakers.” These are sets that come with 2 6.5in woofers and 2 tweeters, along with 2 external, usually square crossovers. Those are passive crossovers.

An “active” crossover refers to a crossover point that you can change. For instance, if your were using a passive crossover as in the above example with component speakers, and that crossover selected the woofer to play the frequencies between 80 and 2.5 kHz, and the tweeter to play 2.5 kHz to 20 kHz, you would not be able to change it. With an active crossover, you could adjust each speaker to play whatever frequencies you wanted, and as a result, DO NOT NEED TO buy a component set, but rather more effectively, choose any woofer and tweeter pair you wanted!

So, how do you go active? Well, you can do it many ways, but the easiest is to simply buy a head unit that has crossover abilities. Thus, you select the frequencies you want your tweeters, woofers, and subwoofer to play, and the head unit will adjust the signal to your specifications. You then take that signal from the RCA ouputs on your head unit, and run those into your amplifiers RCA inputs. Then wire your speaker directly to the amp.


Does this make better sense to you? I don’t expect you to get it right off hand, but it gets easier. :bigok:

This site will help a lot.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

 

[DiscoTech]

Ok, bear with my post. It?s long but should clear the air a bit regarding installing a car stereo system.


Foremost, there are several different ways you can choose to go about your system install. The first and most common design is going ?passive,? and the other is going ?active.? Active by definition is purely in reference to the means by which you apply cross-over filters to your different size drivers... Using a crossover after the amplifier is passive. Before the amplifier is active. But before I can describe those, I should ROUGHLY explain what a crossover is.

In a normal 2 way setup consisting of a 6.5 inch woofer and tweeter, you have a crossover which tells the speakers what frequencies to reproduce. You wouldn?t want your tweeter to play low frequencies or your woofer to play high frequencies. Thus, the crossover adjusts the signal to allow the appropriate frequencies to be played by the appropriate speaker.

Having outlined a ?crossover,? we?ll move on to a ?passive? crossover. A passive crossover is an external unit that adjusts the frequencies the speakers will play and can not be adjusted in any way. Whatever crossover points the external crossover is designed for is the only one that it will use. Think of the widely available ?component speakers.? These are sets that come with 2 6.5in woofers and 2 tweeters, along with 2 external, usually square crossovers. Those are passive crossovers.

An ?active? crossover refers to a crossover point that you can change. For instance, if your were using a passive crossover as in the above example with component speakers, and that crossover selected the woofer to play the frequencies between 80 and 2.5 kHz, and the tweeter to play 2.5 kHz to 20 kHz, you would not be able to change it. With an active crossover, you could adjust each speaker to play whatever frequencies you wanted, and as a result, DO NOT NEED TO buy a component set, but rather more effectively, choose any woofer and tweeter pair you wanted!

So, how do you go active? Well, you can do it many ways, but the easiest is to simply buy a head unit that has crossover abilities. Thus, you select the frequencies you want your tweeters, woofers, and subwoofer to play, and the head unit will adjust the signal to your specifications. You then take that signal from the RCA ouputs on your head unit, and run those into your amplifiers RCA inputs. Then wire your speaker directly to the amp.


Does this make better sense to you? I don?t expect you to get it right off hand, but it gets easier. :bigok:

This site will help a lot.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

HAHAHA, I think my brain just blew up!:drool: I guess I'm going passive. I bought two sets of MB Quart DSH-216s. They are the 'standard' component set with two tweeters, two woofers, and two crossovers.

You are obviously way ahead of me when it comes to audio. I think step one for me is just to figure out how to hardwire my head unit. I'm sure I'll be hitting you up when I finally make my choice for a head unit. Thanks a lot so far though.

Mike

 

[braves6117]

lol, no problem Mike. My first two systems were passive, and were great.

I just got bit by the bug

 

[DiscoTech]

Oh, I'm sure I will as well. Question about your wiring diagram while I have your attention and bare with my complete lack of all things wiring. I'm assuming it is showing the stock harness, but what wires are for the ingnition and headlight dimmer? And where exactly would they go?

Mike

 

[braves6117]

The ignition wire is labeled as "ACC" and the headlight dimmer is the "ILL" (illumination).

When you get or choose your head unit, simply connect the ACC disco wire to the ignition wire on the head unit wiring harness, and the ILL wire to your illumination wire on the head unit harness

 

[DiscoTech]

Gotcha. That's what I was assuming, but you know what they say about assuming. Thanks.

Mike

 

[mbrummal]

Get the rave manual.
http://www.landroverresource.com/

the electrical circuit diagrams section has a very good diagram on the audio systems. It also shows the wire colors (in case any labels come off)

and, yes, you cut the connectors off and connect the wires to the corresponding wires of the new head unit