Anti theft disable

[robbbiee]

1995 D1 - 3.9, 167,000

Having issues with the anti-theft system. All started when the key fob remote failed to work one morning. Truck was locked from the night before and presumably in perimetric and volumetric protection. I unlocked using key, but only driver's door unlocked - the central locking did not function. Started fine and off we go, no problems. Drove it like that for a week or so and continued to use the key to lock / unlock. At that time the key only unlocked the driver's door and the central locking did not operate.

Then the fun started - horn and hazards going off at random etc etc, but no ignition cut out at this point and still started fine. Removed horn fuse temporarily - still started fine, still no central lock function. Then central locking started to work but only randomly, and sometimes when driving along. I checked all the door actuators and one of the rear door links was a bit stiff in operation so lubricated that and presto, now the central locking works again - hurrah!

Not so fast! So now also, the ignition cut out is being triggered and again randomly, so not really safe to drive it anymore.

I replaced the key fob batteries but that didn't help. The central locking works now from the drivers door key, but a slight delay on both lock / unlock whereas before it was instant.

So, not really sure what to do next and wondering if the whole system can be by-passed / disabled so at least I can trust it to start and keep me rolling for a few more years!

Any advice greatly appreciated,

Rob.

 

[robertf]

I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to verify, but I'm pretty sure 94 and 95 only disables the starter and doesn't disable fuel. So you may have multiple electric problems I'd start by replacing the drivers door actuator.

And FYI, you can only use the drivers door lock on a d1. The passenger side does not disable or enable the alarm. They are all this way.

 

[Frobisher]

While I never had a key fob to use or the horn going off on my 95, I had intermittent starting issues due to the security system. When my central locks gave out, I pulled the driver's lock "brain" from the door and re-wired the ignition to a push start since I was having other starting issues as well. Now, I turn the ignition on, push the button, and bingo it's on. (dash button to starter, fused wire from battery to starter)

I have since sorted out the other issues so I can key-start it now, but the family likes the push button so it stays that way. Somewhere on this site is a link to shorting the security system using a scotch lock connector. As I recall, that was what allowed me to bypass the security system and use the key normally again. Don't bother looking for the "spider" in the system as the 95 didn't have it.

 

[Levi]

With regard to the fob, check the battery holder and see if the connection to the board is broke. Especially if your keys get dropped or tossed a lot. I had to solder mine.

 

[4Runner]

I also had a similar problem on my wife's Rover. She actually drove it home with the horn and lights going off. Wish I would have seen that. Lol. As it turns out, there is a tiny micro switch on the drivers door lock itself. I am talking about the outside door handle and not the internal door lock assembly that holds your door closed. If you remove your door handle you will see the switch. There is a plastic ring that activates that switch. Mine cracked and would not always activate the micro switch. I just grabbed a used one from the junk yard. Any D1 drivers door handle should work. Just make sure that that plastic ring is better than the one you have. Lubricate and grease everything while your in there. I don't know if they sell that ring new. Good luck. I was happy to know that dispite what the alarm was doing , I could still drive it.