ARB vs Ashcroft
- Thread starter DiscoPhoto
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I'm sorry I just don't buy TT as an option. I know drag the brake, yada yada yada. My current setup is a stock open front, Ashcrofts and Detroit in the rear all riding on 36" Swampers at about 9 psi. Granted my rig is a good bit less in weight than what is the norm, but if you are thinking about a locker get HD axles then a REAL locker. Be it selectable or not. IMHO a TT is for the grocery getter/card carrying LRO guys. You all know the type. Hell a good buddy of mine was one of them for years....
I wish I could speak to the point of the original question,but I simply can't. I'm really happy with ALL the products I have from L8. Any problems/delays were met with above and beyond what I would call customer service.
I wish I could speak to the point of the original question,but I simply can't. I'm really happy with ALL the products I have from L8. Any problems/delays were met with above and beyond what I would call customer service.
So i ordered the Ashcroft locker to toss in my rear and I'll move my ARB up front. I'm talking to Justin about front axles, too.
Do we have any new choices in front axles?
I currently have RoverTracks axles and CV's.
Replacement parts are no longer available if I break one, nice to have some options at least.
I currently have RoverTracks axles and CV's.
Replacement parts are no longer available if I break one, nice to have some options at least.
beaglebones said:
I wouldn't install a conventional selectable locker in my Rover if you offered to pay to do so, and I'm no damned grocery-getter.
Not everyone requires the same parts.
Cheers,
Kennith
I wouldn't install a conventional selectable locker in my Rover if you offered to pay to do so
Well on that day we would both be fools. Seriously what's your beef a selectable locker??
Do we have any new choices in front axles?
As far as I know it's a set of $1,100 Ashcrofts.
Well on that day we would both be fools. Seriously what's your beef a selectable locker??
Do we have any new choices in front axles?
As far as I know it's a set of $1,100 Ashcrofts.
In the front, the TT is just ok. It's better than a LR diff, but not by much. It does give a little more traction assuming that you left foot brake. Otherwise, it just seems like an open diff. If I make turn from a dead stop, I can get one of the front tires to spin and the TT is doing nothing. Offroad, it helps a little, I guess. In Moab, it's pretty easy to see the effects. Left foot braking made the difference in being able to clear some ledges.
My biggest gripe is the supposed on road advantage with the TT. It's self centering nature is a pain in the ass on an on ramp. If you are on a long turn with partial throttle, if you change the amount of throttle, the steering wheel jumps around.
If I were starting over, I'd skip the TT in the front and get something else.
My biggest gripe is the supposed on road advantage with the TT. It's self centering nature is a pain in the ass on an on ramp. If you are on a long turn with partial throttle, if you change the amount of throttle, the steering wheel jumps around.
If I were starting over, I'd skip the TT in the front and get something else.
Remember that the traction control on the D2's compliments the TT. I two foot when I wheel regardless just out of habit, but with traction control that is not really necessary as it is basically breaking to engage the locker for you. It is a pretty effective combination in that regard.
I do agree that the inability to turn it off is a limiting factor. There are situations when I would prefer it disabled. Although I have never experienced any on-road problems or problematic locking such as on long corners etc. Mind you I don't drive mine in the winter, and I would imagine one would see more activity from the unit there.
I do agree that the inability to turn it off is a limiting factor. There are situations when I would prefer it disabled. Although I have never experienced any on-road problems or problematic locking such as on long corners etc. Mind you I don't drive mine in the winter, and I would imagine one would see more activity from the unit there.
Some of these folks spent fucking hours fixing the others' air lines, electrical gremlins, and so on and so forth, to get the "reliable" lockers running.D Chapman said:
In fact, I cannot remember a single trail ride when out of 3 or more ARB-equipped trucks one would not work when needed. I know there will be some chest-beating around here, but I don't give a shit. If I needed a real locker (in Mike Rupp's alleged sense), it would be a Detroit or KAM.
But, by this time (or, rather, tire size), most everything in the Rover axles is undersized and overtaxed.
I find it highly ironic that many people who think ARB lockers are The Shit were the same people bashing air suspension on Classics and P38A.
just spool the rear and detroit the front. just drive slow on pavement and turn the hazards on when trying to make turns. and save up for tires every year.
but to get back on the original question, running an ARB front and rear ashcroft air locker...i have found the ashcroft is very reliable. Im yet to get gear oil in the line, it always works, etc. the ARB always works, but yes they seem to always get gear oil in the line. granted i keep a 50 pack of viton o rings and spare solenoids, fittings, etc. i will say swapping the bulkead fittings (use ashcroft instead of ARB) has helped, it also allows you to run the same tubing which is available from mcmaster carr. i like how the copper line in the ashcroft doesn't cross over the spider gear vs the ARB set up.
what peter said, 'most everything in the Rover axles is undersized and overtaxed.' is true, so start with axles. The ashcroft have been very very good for me.
but to get back on the original question, running an ARB front and rear ashcroft air locker...i have found the ashcroft is very reliable. Im yet to get gear oil in the line, it always works, etc. the ARB always works, but yes they seem to always get gear oil in the line. granted i keep a 50 pack of viton o rings and spare solenoids, fittings, etc. i will say swapping the bulkead fittings (use ashcroft instead of ARB) has helped, it also allows you to run the same tubing which is available from mcmaster carr. i like how the copper line in the ashcroft doesn't cross over the spider gear vs the ARB set up.
what peter said, 'most everything in the Rover axles is undersized and overtaxed.' is true, so start with axles. The ashcroft have been very very good for me.
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Emailed Justin... if he has the rear shafts in stock I'll probably be picking a set up from him. Thanks again guys.
Can you ellaborate on what if any mods were needed to swap the diff bulkhead fitting from and ARB to an Ashcroft?seventyfive said:
I just got my Ashcroft and would like to get rid of that 5mm ARB line.
* I want to do what you did and use the Ash fitting in my ARB diff so I can use 6mm tubing throughout.
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^ pm dave or ian...for the exact parts. its the bulkhead fitting and new push to connects. i got the push connects from mcmaster 5225K564. they are parallel thread (which is why they need the o rings, and you can get the viton o rings from mcmaster 9464K514 as well.
i had justin order a handful of ashcroft fittings (justin should have a couple in stock)
i had justin order a handful of ashcroft fittings (justin should have a couple in stock)
Thanks. I guess my question is, will the Ash bulkhead fitting thread straight into a diff housing already tapped for an ARB bulkhead fitting? In other words, do the Ash and ARB bulkhead fittings use the same 1/4"-19 BSPF thread into the diff housing?seventyfive said:
The exact part numbers are great, btw. Thank you.