Hi,Iam new to this forum so be gentle. We got a Japanese import back into the UK, minus its engine and auto gearbox, into which we are putting a 300tdi and 5speed manual box. In one of the chats a member quoted “the 2nd relay in on passenger side footwell, has a orange and black wire, using a scotch block ground the orange nd black wire” . This is where the problem starts there’s no orange and black,there is a heavy orange and white but it’s proper position is unsure as I have had all of the relays off to repair the footwell and side. Wait it gets better,as aJapanese import they have an inhibitor and a neutral switch on top of the transfer box. I realise as you guys are in the states I doubt if you will get these cars but you might be able to help us get round the problem of not being able to start car. Thanks for your time and all help welcome, cheers drkwack.
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- Thread starter Drkwack
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K137/C2006 in this photo is the starter relay.
Here is the pinout for it:
Pin 85 gets power when the ignition switch is in the start position. Pin 86 is has to go to ground for it to engage.
On the automatic trucks, it combines with a few other sensors/modules and goes through the park/neutral safety switch, and then the theft alarm box (if it's there) and then to a chassis ground.
On manual trucks, it goes straight to the theft alarm box (if it's there) and then to the same chassis ground.
Grounding the Black/Orange stripe wire on pin 86 will bypass the automatic's park/neutral safety switch and theft alarm box to let the ignition switch control the starter relay without interference.
If the truck had an engine immobilizer spider, you may need to bypass it to get the power switched by the starter relay (pin 87) to the starter solenoid.
Here are the wiring diagrams for the starter if you want to follow along:
Here is the pinout for it:
Pin 85 gets power when the ignition switch is in the start position. Pin 86 is has to go to ground for it to engage.
On the automatic trucks, it combines with a few other sensors/modules and goes through the park/neutral safety switch, and then the theft alarm box (if it's there) and then to a chassis ground.
On manual trucks, it goes straight to the theft alarm box (if it's there) and then to the same chassis ground.
Grounding the Black/Orange stripe wire on pin 86 will bypass the automatic's park/neutral safety switch and theft alarm box to let the ignition switch control the starter relay without interference.
If the truck had an engine immobilizer spider, you may need to bypass it to get the power switched by the starter relay (pin 87) to the starter solenoid.
Here are the wiring diagrams for the starter if you want to follow along:
Thanks a lot ,those wiring diagrams are alien to me though,normally just use Haynes manuals ,but thanks again will look in r/h footwell to see if relay is there.
Here is the jump. Black orange stripe. Middle relay on bottom. Scotchlock to ground right above it. 
I will again have to look at Annabelle and still need to do that to Snowwhite. I keep realizing things i didnt get done on it. Its a lot of little things not just swapping in a transmission.
midway through a 300/380 swap on my disco. the nuetral safety switch/ reverse lights were my last hang up
how did you handle the reverse light dilemma?
i'm in for this as well. i have an r380 swapped into my 95 v8 D1. Been running it a couple years now but never did get reverse wired in.
Saw a video where the existing automatic switch was spliced into by finding the hot wire or power to neutral safety switch then finding the reverse position on the switch and then soldering a wire to the reverse switch on the R380. However I would test with jumper cables before splicing and soldering.