Axes

[Asolo3j]

This could really be posted across the Outdoors, Tools and Camping sections so I decided to put it here.

Anyone have experience or recommend a quality axe.
Wetterlings
Gransfors Bruks
Nordlund
Or other of this caliber

I've heard good things about Husqvarna. I already own a USA made Plumb and a classic Estwing.

I am really looking to get a nice single bit limbing axe that can also do duty as a felling axe. The Wetterling and Gransfors have a really appealing size that is a little shorter (26")and lighter (1.5-1.75 lb head) than our typical American 31" handle and 3.5 lb head. I've got my 80's vintage Plumb to fit that. The Scandavian Forest axe is what I'm thinking.

Not looking for the Home Depot cheapo, Gerber or Fiskars.

 

[majorpayne]

You can't go wrong with a Gransfors. Wetterlings are nice also though the attention to detail is not quite as high as the Gransfors...though the Wetterlings cost a little less, so it works out.

Norlund's aren't still in production as far as I know. I have several of the small Norlund "Hudson Bay" style hatchets and they are very decent. Snow & Neally is another brand that has pretty good reviews if you want a traditional style axe. Their steel tends to be a little softer than some of the higher priced brands such as Gransfors.

Last time I checked the Husqvarna are re-branded Wetterlings. Nothing wrong with them and I actually think you can find them cheaper than a regular Wetterlings.

Another GREAT option is to look at Council Tool. I have gotten the chance to check out and use some of their axes and I have been very impressed. It's also cool that they are a US company still making axes (here in NC no less). Their stuff is very reasonably priced. The quality is very very good, steel seems to be top notch, and you can sometimes find them locally unlike the Scandinavian counterparts. The only bad thing I can say is that the heads aren't finished as completely and can use some file work to get just right.

You can also send the Council axes up to Bark River Knife and Tool and they will do a super grind on them if you desire.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[Asolo3j]

Council Tool, I'll have to check them out.
Yeah, i've seen a smaller older Nordlund, didnt know if they made a limbing size.
Snow & Nealy seem nice, but really mixed reviews about quality and fit/finish. They might make a good axe, but I think a GB is much nicer and would steer towards that over a S&N.

 

[Ben]

I never afforded a good axe, but you should check out Leonard Lee's book on Sharpening. It has a chapter on axes. From the book, it's evident the guy knows something about them. For what it's worth, his company sells Gransfors and Iltis Oxhead.

When I used to cut wood for sale as a teenager, I'd just use a Stihl and a home-built hydraulic woodsplitter or a cheap splitting maul.

On the trail, I keep a 14" folding pruning saw in the Land Rover. It will cut through a wet log up to about 8" in diameter without too much sweat. Any bigger than that I'll move it with the winch or drive around. That book I mentioned shows how to sharpen the teeth on a hand saw and set them and for what purposes to use a different angle bevel or varying amounts of set. But definitely check it out for the axe.

 

[kennith]

Mine are from Gransfors Bruks.

The only way to get a better axe is to make (or have made) a custom model designed specifically for you. They have a model fit for any task, and each one has been well thought out. These guys aren't cranking out tribute pieces, they are making axes that work properly.

They may look all kinds of sexy, but that's just icing on the cake. If they weren't the best I've ever used, I'd have bought something else by now.

One of the best things about them is their ease of maintenance. A little time spent here and there with simple techniques is all it takes to keep things in order. This is the result of something being made properly.

It's just a damned axe, and that's why it's great.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[kennith]

I should also note one of the reasons I like these axes.

None of mine shipped with a secondary bevel. What may appear to be a bevel in some photographs is actually a gentle roll into a traditional convex edge.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[champana]

These are made locally. Pretty much bad ass
http://www.rmjtactical.com/

 

[Asolo3j]

These are made locally. Pretty much bad ass
http://www.rmjtactical.com/

No thanks.


Council looks to be decent, wonder what their quality is like. This one is the most appealing to me from them.
1.75lb Hudson Bay with 28" handle

Ox-Head Iltis are made in Germany. - a little research and these are good axes but complaints about the bit being too thick, not very good for US hardwoods. Might be good for softer woods tho.

 

[Some Dude]

Somehow - before I even clicked on this thread - I knew Kennith would be in here with a dissertation on custom, one-off, handmade axes from Switzerland.

My grandfather was a logger. When he died I cleaned out his shed and wound up with a dozen axes. Most of them are Collins, some are generic or unmarked. They're all different lengths, sizes, weights... Honesly, I have no idea how to size an axe for a specific job. I mostly just use a maul for splitting firewood.

 

[SGaynor]

The Gransfors Bruks are the bomb, but for a fraction of the price, the Fiskars has served me well (general, and occasional use).

Edit: Misread the OP's post (didn't want the Fiskars). Go with GB.

 

[kennith]

For light use around the house, people might be happy with a Fiskars axe.

I don't like them. To me, they are a bad joke. They've got that damned slab-sided profile and a nasty secondary bevel. On top of that, the metal used is a poor choice.

What I really can't stand, though, is the banded attachment. There are reasons many good tools and weapons haven't been built that way over the centuries. It's not a good idea.

I can't dig the plastic, either. I understand why they did it, though. It had to be plastic. If you want to band a tool in that manner, it's either plastic or cord, and cord wouldn't sell nowadays.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[rover4x4]

I had a small collapsible fiskars saw that I kept in my pocket in my mountain biking days, there has been more trail cleared with that little saw than I care to remember.


I vote for a Council Tool anything, made here in North Carolina. Everytime I see a Collins display I want to turn it over.

 

[Asolo3j]

You want to see some ridiculous high prices for a basic axe...Check out these Best Made Company

Made by some dude in NYC (reminds me of the Pace salsa comercials.... "New York City??!!"). Here is the video from YouTube for BMC and a great comment was left.

"This is an all-time high-water mark for Hipster Bullshit. This is a $45 Council Tool axe with the head polished and some paint on the handle for $250..."

Their Hudson Bay looks nice, I guess you can call what they do "art". No thanks.

 

[Asolo3j]

double post, sorry

 

[majorpayne]

The Best Made axes are a joke at best. Much better options for the price.

The council quality is very good and if you check dealers you might find a local hardware store that carries them (mine does).

I also notice that you said you wanted a limbing axe that could do partial duty as a felling axe and be in the range of 26". I have an Iltis Ochsenkopf (Ox Head) that is a great axe. Steel is good, quality is great, and best of all you can find them as the Stihl brand at Stihl dealers.

This is the one I have:

which is actually the same as this axe:

Of course I removed the orange paint from the haft and head and gave it a nice convex grind. It's a great option and IIRC ran about $80

 

[SGaynor]

For light use around the house, people might be happy with a Fiskars axe.

I don't like them. To me, they are a bad joke. They've got that damned slab-sided profile and a nasty secondary bevel. On top of that, the metal used is a poor choice.

What I really can't stand, though, is the banded attachment. There are reasons many good tools and weapons haven't been built that way over the centuries. It's not a good idea.

I can't dig the plastic, either. I understand why they did it, though. It had to be plastic. If you want to band a tool in that manner, it's either plastic or cord, and cord wouldn't sell nowadays.

Cheers,

Kennith

Agreed. For most people though, it will serve well....this is the same discussion as Snap-on vs Craftsman (even the degraded newer stuff).

 

[kennith]

You want to see some ridiculous high prices for a basic axe...Check out these Best Made Company

That guy will sell just about anything, won't he? That site is full of silly stuff.

So far as axes go, his Hudson Bay is not only made by Council, it's an identical forging. It looks like someone got hold of a Council Hudson bay and had some fun with a belt sander.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[GregH]

The Best Made axes are a joke at best. Much better options for the price.

The council quality is very good and if you check dealers you might find a local hardware store that carries them (mine does).

I also notice that you said you wanted a limbing axe that could do partial duty as a felling axe and be in the range of 26". I have an Iltis Ochsenkopf (Ox Head) that is a great axe. Steel is good, quality is great, and best of all you can find them as the Stihl brand at Stihl dealers.

This is the one I have:

which is actually the same as this axe:

Of course I removed the orange paint from the haft and head and gave it a nice convex grind. It's a great option and IIRC ran about $80

I second the Iltis Ochsenkopf. I have one as well.

 

[Nomar]

I have a Gransfors that I received as a gift.
It is very nice.

I literally just received it as a gift this morning.
Now I need to go hatchet something...

 

[kennith]

I have a Gransfors that I received as a gift.
It is very nice.

I literally just received it as a gift this morning.
Now I need to go hatchet something...

If you haven't had something like this before, you are going to be amazed at just how useful a hatchet can be.

Just make sure you follow safety procedures and keep your stance proper, because these things do what they are supposed to do, and I've seen people have some close calls.

I'd also suggest that this is the time when you should remember to put the sheathe back on your hatchet when not using it. It's now sharp enough to hurt you.

Cheers,

Kennith