Ball/socket exhaust ?

[fishEH]

I have Hedman Headers on my D1 and they utilize a ball/socket connection at the Y-pipe.
Like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/69640/10002/-1?parentProductId=1422158#moreDetails

The ball & socket moves a little and they're leaking now.
Is there a gasket I can stick in there to seal it up better?
I used Copper RTV, but with the little movement its no longer sealed.
Can I use a clamp in addition to the flanges/bolts? Like this one? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31924/10002/-1

I'm not really interested in reworking the entire exhaust so please don't tell me to do that.
Also, what are the best gasket to use at the engine with Headers? Just the stock ones? Does it help to double them up at all if I suspect leaking there?

 

[singingcamel]

Have you tried to torque the down pipe up a tad , it seems once they get out of round theres not a whole lot you can do other then tighten em up

 

[fishEH]

Not yet. It's been -15 here for the last two days. I'll try that but was hoping there was some sort of gasket I could toss in there that would seal better than metal/metal.

 

[helievacpilot]

I'm wondering if there's such a thing as a generic sheet of exhaust gasket material? You could then cut something to size to form a seal between the two. ORRR, buy a set of gaskets close to your size and just cut them up until they fit.
As far as the header to cylinder head gaskets, I've had more luck with the metal ones over the fibre, but that's just me.
Not sure on the clamp.

 

[singingcamel]

Did you have to do alot of bending to the down pipe to get it away from the frame rail ?
Some how ,your going have to take up the slack between the exhaust manifold and down pipe.
I'd throw a few extra fiber gaskets between the flange and the down pipe.

 

[fishEH]

I didn't touch the headers. They are one piece from the engine down to where they turn and connect to the Y-pipe.
I'll have to look for the generic gasket material, good idea!

 

[seventyfive]

I'll have to look for the generic gasket material, good idea!

I've only seen exhaust generic material for making manifold gaskets, it's metallic which makes it tricky to cut properly.

you have 3 options.

1) Live with the leak.

2) try using a doughnut gasket with longer hardware to draw the gasket material down. I've never seen an aftermarket doughnut that is super soft, they are usually stiff. not to say you can't find a generic doughnut that is softer to conform to ball and socket applications…..imagine steel wool held together with graphite and formed under pressure.
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1068_1221

3) Weld the ball and socket connection then cut the pipe after the down pipe connection and join it with a sleeve http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1070_1132&products_id=61

personally i cut the flanges off the y pipe connection welded a flex pipe and used a sleeve. http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1064_1114
it's nice having the flex joints and sleeves so EVERY time i bend shit the exhaust has compliance.
I've knocked the rear section loose numerous times, but all i have to do is ratchet strap the rear exhaust forward and tighten the sleeve back down VERSUS fix yet another exhaust leak.

if i were you i'd weld the connection and sleeve the pipes before the cats.

 

[discograham]

Maybe you need to integrate a couple flex joints to absorb the movement between the motor and frame.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-652510/overview/

 

[seventyfive]

Maybe you need to integrate a couple flex joints to absorb the movement between the motor and frame.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-652510/overview/

Only problem with those is the connection. The u clamps deform the pipes so whenever you need to remove the headers it will be a nightmare. They pinch the pipes. Sleeves Are the way to go in applications where you have to remove exhaust components.

But yes, flex pipes are definitely beneficial to absorb the misalignment caused by off roading.

 

[discograham]

I have never spent the extra money on them myself (flex pipes), sounds like you have and learned the pros and cons "the hard way". Unfortunately Headers have that problem of leaking. I choose to stick with the stock manifolds for this very reason.

Only problem with those is the connection. The u clamps deform the pipes so whenever you need to remove the headers it will be a nightmare. They pinch the pipes. Sleeves Are the way to go in applications where you have to remove exhaust components.

But yes, flex pipes are definitely beneficial to absorb the misalignment caused by off roading.

 

[fishEH]

I've only seen exhaust generic material for making manifold gaskets, it's metallic which makes it tricky to cut properly.

you have 3 options.

1) Live with the leak.

2) try using a doughnut gasket with longer hardware to draw the gasket material down. I've never seen an aftermarket doughnut that is super soft, they are usually stiff. not to say you can't find a generic doughnut that is softer to conform to ball and socket applications…..imagine steel wool held together with graphite and formed under pressure.
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1068_1221

3) Weld the ball and socket connection then cut the pipe after the down pipe connection and join it with a sleeve http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1070_1132&products_id=61

personally i cut the flanges off the y pipe connection welded a flex pipe and used a sleeve. http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1064_1114
it's nice having the flex joints and sleeves so EVERY time i bend shit the exhaust has compliance.
I've knocked the rear section loose numerous times, but all i have to do is ratchet strap the rear exhaust forward and tighten the sleeve back down VERSUS fix yet another exhaust leak.

if i were you i'd weld the connection and sleeve the pipes before the cats.

Thanks Mike.
I'll probably pursue option 2 right now since its brutally cold out. If that doesn't work Option 1 will be default until spring. Then I will implement some variation of Option 3.

 

[bigcheif]

you could cut the ball&socket off and go with the 3 bolt header flanges. pros and cons with it though. at least you can get better gaskets for them now!

 

[fishEH]

you could cut the ball&socket off and go with the 3 bolt header flanges. pros and cons with it though. at least you can get better gaskets for them now!

I'm not doing any cutting now. It's cold as shit out and I only drive it to wheel. I'll try the easy fix now and deal with cutting/welding when it's warm out if needed.

 

[bigcheif]

I'm in the same climate! fuck this -20 shit!

 

[KyleT]

V-band works well too.

 

[mbrummal]

V-band works well too.

X2. That's what I did to fix that leak.

 

[Flyfish]

You may want to try adding exhaust olives. Worked for me.

 

[bigcheif]

? new one for me. how do they work?

 

[Flyfish]

Fits inside the joint and helps seal misalignment on both sides of flange. Atlantic British carries them.

 

[JohnB]

Maybe longer bolts with a heavy duty spring, then you crank the spring all the way down and double lock a nut.


That's what Audi does on some of the older turbo cars from the 80's. Have copied that a few times on a VW with a header and a slippery tri-flow exhaust on an old euro 635csi.