Best source for 4.6 long block or complete engine?
- Thread starter Drifter55
- Start date
Huh, I have 225 on my current one and it's still going. But boy, you got me on the alternator!! Magneti-Marelli! ARGH. I think it's Italian for Lucas. That's one of the reasons I added a second alternator (Denso)!
Why 4 link as opposed to the stock configuration?
Why 4 link as opposed to the stock configuration?
Ive reached the limits of the stock suspension. The radius arms just dont allow for much travel. I have a rear panhard, and custom lower shock mounts as well, but the radius arms bind. Every time I climb a ledge, the front goes right up, but the rear never wants to follow. I know guys that have done the 4 link and according to them it's night and day difference.
My truck is already setup as"Rocklander". It can do 70mph all day on 35s, then go climb some gnarly stuff. I just want to take it to the next level. More power and a 6spd for those long highway runs in the mountains, and the 4 link to be able to fully take advantage of that solid axle. Its not for everyone, but Ive really enjoyed being able to drive it long distance, go explore and wheel hard stuff and still drive it home. No trailers here!
That’s crazy! Id still want them to do the liners or find out who does them for them.
Machine shops by me fall into 3 categories:
1) reasonably priced good work, but slow and back logged
2) a little over priced, won't do real custom work, but they finish in a reasonable time
3) high priced race engines only
I use my shop in category 1 when I can wait. I found my category 1 shop because my category 2 shop knicked the top of a cylinder doing cam bearings. They refused to fix it because they don't do liners on aluminum blocks.
They did give me a $100 discount on the bearing job...that went real far on buying darton top hats and having them installed lol.
1) reasonably priced good work, but slow and back logged
2) a little over priced, won't do real custom work, but they finish in a reasonable time
3) high priced race engines only
I use my shop in category 1 when I can wait. I found my category 1 shop because my category 2 shop knicked the top of a cylinder doing cam bearings. They refused to fix it because they don't do liners on aluminum blocks.
They did give me a $100 discount on the bearing job...that went real far on buying darton top hats and having them installed lol.
I like TWS and what they are doing but they made it real clear they have no interest in a stock rebuild. AB is the only other US player I am aware of that offers a rebuilt engine with a warranty.
I got mine back together today, so far so good. Let's hope this round last more than a couple thousand miles.
I need to add up my receipts but I'd guess I have 7.5-8.5k total between the two rebuilds and money thrown at it troubleshooting the noise. So about the same as a AB long block but no warranty.
I got mine back together today, so far so good. Let's hope this round last more than a couple thousand miles.
I need to add up my receipts but I'd guess I have 7.5-8.5k total between the two rebuilds and money thrown at it troubleshooting the noise. So about the same as a AB long block but no warranty.
So that x2 engines or put another way about $4K per rebuild - correct? And of course free labor - LOL.
So that is just doing the heads - no new valves, springs, cam shaft, timing chain etc etc....?
There were a few while you are in there things that I replaced that added up. I did new injectors, new knock sensors, new crank position sensor, new O2's. I also did new pistons on the first rebuild, the second time I only replaced the rings on the cylinder that was replaced. For the heads, I had them decked .015 to get them flat. Installed new valve seals and lapped the valves to clean the seats up. The machine shop originally quoted me $1,600 to clean the block, deck it, install new cam bearings, top hat sleeves and final bore and hone. Like I said, I bought a block already done from Larry that cost a few hundred more. Had a different shop turn the crank .010 and polish. I also had them install the new pistons on the old rods.
Thanks for expanding on that - So you pulled the engine out I take it.
I posted a question about my cylinder 7 problem child that I have - if you could weigh in on it I would appreciate it.
Cheers -
I posted a question about my cylinder 7 problem child that I have - if you could weigh in on it I would appreciate it.
Cheers -
Yes, most of the work pulling the engine is up top. Truth is even if all I planned to do was head gaskets, I would still pull the engine. Odds are you probably have some oil leaks to address anyway and it really doesn't take that much time. I can have the engine out in about 2 hours but I've done it multiple times now.
The size of the engine is moderately convenient. It's not a 13b but still... it's fairly easy to manipulate.