Bleed issues, water pump?

AMCM Disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
475
0
Cali
'00 Dii

Thermostat cracked (shut down immediately) and swapped, bled initially according to RAVE, then with nose very highlands heat full on as per Discoweb manual 4297.4C (searched) but she's not producing heat from the heater and will overheat after the initial 30 min online.

Checked all plugs for steam, nothing.

Checked coolant for signs of exhaust, nothing.

Checked oil for coolant, nothing.

Waterpump turns with regular resistance at the pulley, no leaks, belt is in good condition.

Radiator is not clogged and no pinched lines.

It seems that the pump isn't sending fluid up to the heater it the line is vapor locked of some sort, ideas on resolving this?
 

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
Did you install your thermostat right? If you reverse the two top hoses it will overheat.
 

AMCM Disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
475
0
Cali
Yes. It's in there right. It seems to work normally, when first started she warmsup normally, then after 20 or so minutes of normal running, it will get hot.
 

adriatic04

Well-known member
Mar 22, 2007
2,506
2
cleveland, oh
air bubble. I had one fucking hell of a time getting mine to go from empty to full, I let it sit for a couple hours with nose up, tank raised with cap off, finally got it.
 

Ed Cheung

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2006
1,584
2
Hong Kong
I find it easier to bleed the system when the engine is at operating temperature when the t-stat is fully opened. With the coolant tank cap off, radiator cap turn in just enough to keeps the water in, and loose enough to let the air bubble out.

Then increase the rpm a bit and it will suck water in from the overflow tank, then top it off again and repeat properly 3-4 times. Then tighten everything, drive it around the block at low gear at high rpm, this should push all the bubble/ air into the overflow tank, and top it off again. Usually this part will fill in the remaining 1 1/2L of the coolant.
 

jasonmk12

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2005
328
0
40
Portland, OR
I always follow the RAVE instructions and it works every time. Lift expansion tank, open bleed screw, close bleed screw, put expansion back where it goes. Get the rave and read it.

Jason

edit: here ya go
 

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AMCM Disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
475
0
Cali
Yeah. Have done that about a hundred times in chasing this thing. Problem is when the thermostat went it boiled the system, so I'm chasing bubbles from all throughout the thing. Will let you guys knowing that didn't workout. Thanks!
 

LRflip

Well-known member
Oct 8, 2006
5,741
25
none of your fucking business
Ed Cheung said:
I find it easier to bleed the system when the engine is at operating temperature when the t-stat is fully opened. With the coolant tank cap off, radiator cap turn in just enough to keeps the water in, and loose enough to let the air bubble out.

Then increase the rpm a bit and it will suck water in from the overflow tank, then top it off again and repeat properly 3-4 times. Then tighten everything, drive it around the block at low gear at high rpm, this should push all the bubble/ air into the overflow tank, and top it off again. Usually this part will fill in the remaining 1 1/2L of the coolant.

X2...This is how I did it...
 

AMCM Disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
475
0
Cali
Ok, been busy, but with all the bleeding advice and practical experience of bleeding here's the latest:

It's still pumping bubbles into the coolant. Idles great, can go all day and have no issues... but at RPM (2500+) I'm guessing that it's bubbling into the coolant; I'll first loose heat, then she'll start to heat up above normal.

Exhaust leak from #8 - back of the head? Will is show oil/water mix (I have no current contamination - but not saying that it's not leaking and just not mixing with the oil)? I got one #8 misfire, but pulled the plug and inspected the cylinder and didn't see steaming/evidence of leak...