Bleeding Clutch Method?

[Toran]

Hello Good People,

Went out to the truck and the clutch paddle went to the floor. Not sure if its because of air in the system.
I am thinking about doing a reverse bleed. When I start this process should I leave the clutch paddle to the floor or should it be lifted?

T.I.A.

 

[Disco95]

Hello Good People,

Went out to the truck and the clutch paddle went to the floor. Not sure if its because of air in the system.
I am thinking about doing a reverse bleed. When I start this process should I leave the clutch paddle to the floor or should it be lifted?

T.I.A.

Not to put a damper on it, but I couldn’t get the reverse bleed to work on my D1. This was after a slave and master swap. Struggled for an hour before I finally rigged up a 2x4 to hold the pedal down (no helper available) and had it held the usual way in no time. Maybe the initial bleed helped at the slave…maybe.

What do you have for equipment? I might just not have had the horsepower. I used a big pump oiler.

On another note, I’m not sure if I’d do that job again. The slave cylinder access on the v8 was designed by an evil person. My hands hurt just thinking about it.

Good luck, and report back if you get the reverse bleed to work! If it turns out you need a slave cylinder, I’d get a shop quote first

Cheers,
joe b
pdx or
95 d1 v8 5sp

 

[Toran]

Hey Joe,

Thanks for the response.
For equipment I have a large automotive syringe, along with a Motive Power Bleeder.

I agree the design of this was by someone evil, down right wicked!

Gotta tackle this cause I need my wheels up and running. Will report the results.

 

[LRDONE]

I've never bled a D1 clutch but I would have to think it's pretty similar to everything else, correct me if I'm wrong. If you have the ability to put 10psi in the reservoir, you can crack the bleeder on the slave, check your email, close the bleeder and get on with your day. Don't let the reservoir level get too low.

 

[terryjm1]

I was using a vacuum bleeder and I had a little trouble getting it to fully bled. i had it about 3/4 bled and ran out of time. It was drivable so I drove it from my shop to home. Overnight, it improved. After a couple days it was 100%.

 

[Toran]

THANK YOU everyone for the replies!
During this bleed process should I leave the clutch paddle to the floor like it is now?

 

[LRDONE]

THANK YOU everyone for the replies!
During this bleed process should I leave the clutch paddle to the floor like it is now?

I would pull the pedal up slowly and leave it there. That will draw fluid into the master.

 

[Toran]

Thank you!

I would pull the pedal up slowly and leave it there. That will draw fluid into the master.

 

[Disco95]

PS I found the reverse bleed method popular mostly on non-US forums. The TDIs have some extra complication at the slave cylinder (I think for dampening clutch judder with the lumpy diesel) that might be an extra air trap down there.

Cheers,
joe b
pdx or
95 D1 v8 5sp

 

[Gordo]

I found that bleeding the master first helps. I usually bleed it before I install it. Or at least bleed it at the hose first. It’s always a PITA still bleeding the clutch. Never tried the reverse method just the old pump and hold method

 

[German Gruner]

My method needs only a hose. In order to explain I did a graphic help:

Cylinder is in horizontal position. When open bleed nipple whitout hose or with a hose to lower position, air will come in to upper side of cylinder.
The correct way is with a hose pointing to upper position . When fluid is clean you can direct hose to reservoir, and pressing pedal air bubbles will come out there.
Regards

 

[twosevens]

I have always just used a syringe and hose, putting the hose on the bleed valve of the secondary cylinder, pushing fluid up into the primary. Then I cycle the pedal about a 100 times to purge the air. No joke - 100 cycles of the pedal. Also, I'd search for your leak.

 

[special ed]

I will give you my .02c worth. Bleeding a clutch is not like bleeding brakes. Instead of pumping up the brakes with the bleeder closed on a clutch you need to open the bleeder, press down and close the bleeder. After the fluid has no air, cap it off and pump pump pump. The slave needs to extend out all the way and it take quite a few pumps to get it to move far enough and build pressure. Also a clutch slave and master will self bleed to some extent allowing air to travel up into the master and burp it if left alone. This is why you actually get a better pedal after it sits sometimes. Make sure the line is on the bottom position of the slave as it will not bleed if it is on the top hole. I see this out of inexperience installing or because it is much easier to get to the bleeder if its on the bottom. Lastly the slave cylinder will leak and the only way to tell is to remove it and look. Rarely it the master having a problem but i always replace them as a pair. Its a common mistake to bleed a clutch like a brake system and you end up fighting it to get it to work.

 

[Toran]

Hey Everyone,

Just here to give an update.
I had a pin size hole in the line taking the fluid from the master to the slave.
I ended up using the Motive Power Bleeder.

What a pain in the ass replacing that line. The fitting that goes into the master cylinder has several cross threads so it simply would not screw in.
Eventually the clutch paddle was firm. After starting the truck it got very soft which tells me there must be more air in the line that I will need to get to immediately. I was at least able to now move the truck into the garage. Before this I was doing everything on an incline driveway with large gravel. I took my time but eventually arrived and I was cursing like a mutha###ker!

Since I have no helper and using the Motive Bleeder would it be helpful to put something in place that will help the clutch paddle down while I am under the truck opening the bleeder valve?

Thanks

 

[terryjm1]

Hey Everyone,

Just here to give an update.
I had a pin size hole in the line taking the fluid from the master to the slave.
I ended up using the Motive Power Bleeder.

What a pain in the ass replacing that line. The fitting that goes into the master cylinder has several cross threads so it simply would not screw in.
Eventually the clutch paddle was firm. After starting the truck it got very soft which tells me there must be more air in the line that I will need to get to immediately. I was at least able to now move the truck into the garage. Before this I was doing everything on an incline driveway with large gravel. I took my time but eventually arrived and I was cursing like a mutha###ker!

Since I have no helper and using the Motive Bleeder would it be helpful to put something in place that will help the clutch paddle down while I am under the truck opening the bleeder valve?

Thanks

If you are not in hurry, give it a few days and pump the peddle from time to time. Mine was like yours but there was enough peddle to carefully shift and drive. (I had a Fiat that had a mid engine and the path the fluid had to travel made bleeding them quite challenging. This is where I first used this approach.) . After a few days I had full pedal. It needed time for the tiny air bubbles to work their way up and out. I would go out in the morning and pump the pedal a handful of times and then go look in the reservoir to see air bubbles slowly surface. While I have a shop and a lift, after the initial bleed I was working on my back in gravel. As you know, that sucks. So, the lazy patient way was adopted.

 

[Toran]

Hey terryjm1,

Thanks for the tip. I will go out and pump that pedal and look for bubbles.

 

[Toran]

THANK YOU EVERYONE for the quick and most pleasant feedback!
I took the tip from terryjm1 and went out to the track and starting pumping on the clutch pedal and was able to see micro bubbles appearing in the reservoir. I returned to pumping the clutch pedal and could feel it firming up till eventually it was normal again. Started the truck and the pedal still felt normal.

Thanks to the Good People on this forum for once again helping me to help this old Rover on the road.

 

[special ed]

If you are not in hurry, give it a few days and pump the peddle from time to time. Mine was like yours but there was enough peddle to carefully shift and drive. (I had a Fiat that had a mid engine and the path the fluid had to travel made bleeding them quite challenging. This is where I first used this approach.) . After a few days I had full pedal. It needed time for the tiny air bubbles to work their way up and out. I would go out in the morning and pump the pedal a handful of times and then go look in the reservoir to see air bubbles slowly surface. While I have a shop and a lift, after the initial bleed I was working on my back in gravel. As you know, that sucks. So, the lazy patient way was adopted.

Good advice. Clutch hydraulics tend to self bleed with use. I finished my R380 swap and after sitting and using it the pedal had significantly better travel.