blower motor voltage at both leads?

[yoface13]

trying to get my blower motor up and running again.

doesn't run at any speed.
fuses good.
connectors cleaned.
motor tested; it's good.
motor refuses to work at its place of duty.

tested for power at the assumed power lead at the blower motor connector. 11.87v or something. not bad. for s's & g's, let's check the other lead. speed 1 - 1.87v. speed 2 - 1.something smaller v. speed 3 - slightly lower voltage. speed 4 - no voltage. what the crap? where'd all this voltage come from?

i'm hoping someone can immediately see this and say "XYZ has occurred, you need to do ABC," because my knowledge of circuitry led me to believe that this type of "crossing streams" is what rips universes apart.

oh, and i saw that i will probably get told to cut, splice, solder and heat shrink, that power connector, and i promise that i will, but you have to tell me that this is wrong as well. something's wrong... it doesn't work.

thanks!

 

[listerdiesel]

Looks like the earth point may be bad, or there is an issue with the fuse in the resistor pack.

The main earth is C0910 which is down behind the kick panel on the driver's side on UK vehicles, probably on the driver's side for NAS vehicles.

The fuse in the resistor pack is not something I've seen before, I guess it is to protect against a seized motor. The resistor pack can be accessed quite easily without any stripping down, it bolts onto the fan motor housing.

Hope this helps.

Peter

 

[yoface13]

Thanks! The diagram will come in handy! The rave manual won't come up on this computer. Time to go back to PC's.

 

[yoface13]

So, it looks like nothing is working so far.

I took apart the resistor pack and it looked good. I put in a new used one anyways.
I took apart the blower motor. cleaned it. lubed it. tested it again. it's strong like bull.
i took the HVAC control module out. examined it. cleaned it. no apparent burnt electronics.
Cut out the one connector PTSchram was saying to take out. ran the wires directly into each other. The connector had not melted, but you could tell it had been warm. It had slightly browned in the middle of the connector.
Looked at C0910. Jiggled it. solid. no apparent corrosion.
Jiggled all wires. unplugged all connectors associated with blower system, sprayed QD electronic spray on all connections.
Took relay out. wasn't dirty but cleaned it anyways.

What am I missing? oh and a quick correction on the weird voltage thing. i'm getting 1.86 volts on the other lead to the blower motor - the one that's not the 12volt lead. it's reading 1.86volts on all the speeds except for max speed. at max speed it drops down to 0 volts. (motor still doesn't run, even though this would indicate a system that would allow it to run.) if i turn off the system. that lead will read 1.81 volts.

any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.

 

[listerdiesel]

Still feel that its a ground issue, have a look at this:

A7 and B7 are loom joints that may be buried in the loom itself.

Peter

 

[agthird]

pull the fuse block out from under the dash and see if you have any burnt connections on the block itself. Im currently having the exact same problems as you. After I pulled the block I didn't see any visible signs of damaged so I reassembled all the fuses and reinstalled the block. The fan motor started to work again leading me to believe that the problem is with the block itself. The fan motor now works about 50 percent of the time. If you dig deep enough here you can find some pics of a member who did a by pass of the fuse block itself for the motor. Some have hot wired the motor itself directly to the battery. Also you can go with a used block for about 75 dollars good luck....

 

[KyleT]

Or corrosion under the fuse block under the drivers kick panel. Symptoms seem plausible.

 

[mbrummal]

Or corrosion under the fuse block under the drivers kick panel. Symptoms seem plausible.

x2. That's what mine did.

 

[yoface13]

got the fuse block out. the through solder pin (don't know the fancy name for it) between fuse 6 and 7 looked somewhat gnarly. under a loupe, it looked like the area had seen some heat, with some brown outlines on the path near connected to the pin. went with my standard craptacular rework job. will reinstall tomorrow.

i will say that getting the bottom-most harness off of the back was the most difficult. i thought it had smelted or something in place based on what you guys were saying. after i finally got it out, it doesn't appear that there's any corrosion or any signs of a bad connection. is that the area that you guys were talking about the corrosion?

after i get it in. i will look for those loom joints.

 

[yoface13]

Got it in. Hallelujah. I've got air. Will post a pic later of that pin.