Bluetooth in a Stock D1 Radio?

[stu454]

I've searched. I also know about GB4x4 Radio and their iffy reputation. I want to be able to select a function on the stock radio and be able to play all of the shitty music that's on my phone.

So, is there a way to stealth a bluetooth input into the back of a stock D1 radio? Maybe run it off of the CD input? I have no idea, that's why I'm asking you ne'er-do-wells. And, no, I don't want an aftermarket deck. I'm one of those purist assholes.

Thanks.

 

[robertf]

havent got around to bluetooth yet, but this is almost the same minus the degradation of sound quality

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5M1npKILzII

www.flyinghorsesolutions.com

 

[p m]

Stu - I've been unfortunate enough to dabble into a variety of BT transmitters and receivers.
If you replace your head unit with one with BT, you'll be happy. It is always powered up, so it connects to your phone as soon as you turn the key. The lil dongles nearly all want you to perform some song and dance to get them paired with your device.

Robert's adapter is a superior solution. Besides, you can run TorquePro while listening to your tunes.

 

[discostew]

havent got around to bluetooth yet, but this is almost the same minus the degradation of sound quality

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5M1npKILzII

www.flyinghorsesolutions.com

I got one of the boxes Robertf put together and it works great. Gotta plug in the 2" jack but that's a little deal to me. Plugs right into the cable for a cd changer. No heavy mods and you gain all the space under the pass. Front seat that used to be filled with cd changer.

 

[p m]

Robert, want to take your box to another level?

Add one or more audio inputs to it, with signal in one softly muting the other (similar to aircraft comm sets).
Music goes into #1, CB or ham radio output into #2 (having a priority over #1), voice of significant other (or from GPS unit) - into #3, with priority over #1 and 2.

 

[robertf]

Robert, want to take your box to another level?

Add one or more audio inputs to it, with signal in one softly muting the other (similar to aircraft comm sets).
Music goes into #1, CB or ham radio output into #2 (having a priority over #1), voice of significant other (or from GPS unit) - into #3, with priority over #1 and 2.

Ive got a couple of prototype multiplex units, but the soft fade aint going to happen. I went with reed relays so that audio grounds, power grounds, and signal grounds are all segregated. This is my comm audio solution.

 

[p m]

Not even something as simple as this?

 

[robertf]

I dont know, that is kind of pricey. Truth is I built it the way I wanted it, thats why Im dragging my feet on bluetooth because I think it sounds horrible in every oem vehicle setup Ive tried

 

[p m]

Nah, I just picked pricey transformers for ground isolation - found that's the only way to deal with ham radio output. Not all inputs need them - just those with the other ground connection to the vehicle (which includes phone with a battery charger running).
I don't doubt your engineering - just want more of it!

BTW... You really don't need reed relays anymore.
$3 at Newark: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2032575.pdf

buck sixty at Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/205/CPC1125N-748435.pdf

 

[stu454]

I dont know, that is kind of pricey. Truth is I built it the way I wanted it, thats why Im dragging my feet on bluetooth because I think it sounds horrible in every oem vehicle setup Ive tried

Come on, pretty please? I'll be dealing with mediocre stock D1 speakers . I'm not an audiophile. I just want to avoid having to plug my phone in.

 

[WaltNYC]

IF your CD player is still operable you can intercept/tap the audio lines to the head unit and place RCA inputs. I also added USB power in the cubby and now one cable to my phone allows for audio through the stock system AND charges the phone.

 

[stu454]

IF your CD player is still operable you can intercept/tap the audio lines to the head unit and place RCA inputs. I also added USB power in the cubby and now one cable to my phone allows for audio through the stock system AND charges the phone.

As far as I know it's dead. I've never used it and it started making a strange noise at random so I pulled the plug.

 

[Ed Cheung]

As far as I know it's dead. I've never used it and it started making a strange noise at random so I pulled the plug.

The problem is with the wire harness or the charger?

 

[stu454]

Hell if I know. I've never used it. There's an aftermarket deck in placw now.

 

[robertf]

Nah, I just picked pricey transformers for ground isolation - found that's the only way to deal with ham radio output. Not all inputs need them - just those with the other ground connection to the vehicle (which includes phone with a battery charger running).
I don't doubt your engineering - just want more of it!

BTW... You really don't need reed relays anymore.
$3 at Newark: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2032575.pdf

buck sixty at Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/205/CPC1125N-748435.pdf

Good call on the optocouplers, and they could be PWM'd to fade in and out easily.

 

[robertf]

Come on, pretty please? I'll be dealing with mediocre stock D1 speakers . I'm not an audiophile. I just want to avoid having to plug my phone in.

I'll see what I can do in the next few weeks.

 

[stu454]

Thanks!

 

[p m]

Good call on the optocouplers, and they could be PWM'd to fade in and out easily.

... assuming you PWM the LEDs in the megahertz frequency range; most optocouplers have about 100us - 1ms turn-on time.

 

[robertf]

yeah. i meant duty cycle modulation, but Ive seen it done

 

[bearskinrug]

IF your CD player is still operable you can intercept/tap the audio lines to the head unit and place RCA inputs. I also added USB power in the cubby and now one cable to my phone allows for audio through the stock system AND charges the phone.

Can you describe how you did this? Like in terms a Mongolian idiot can follow? Pictures would be great...