Body damage

captwyo

Well-known member
Apr 17, 2007
447
0
Wyoming
Kinda backed into a pole in the middle of the damn street today. Well, not exactly middle, but who the fuck puts a 8" metal pole in the street?! I guess that's beside the point. Can someone (or multiple someones) advise on this? Not sure its worth it at this point. How much work is involved in taking that panel off?
2Q==
 

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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Visit a low rider gathering. They are easily enough to find if you check in audio shops. You want the good kind, with scantily clad girls.

Once there, ask around until you find the body guy that most of them respect. He will invariably be really fucking good. These guys value traditional practices, and will have that sorted right out.

You'll have to earn some points, but it's worth the trouble.

My body-work is all handled by people with cars that bounce. Ain't no Bondo on my rides.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,764
564
Seattle
I did something similar to my D1, only backing into a tree on a trail. Right about the same spot on the other side. I took my truck to a few auto body shops, they all quoted large numbers for the job which would have required a claim on my auto insurance and paying the $500 deductible.

Then I bought an entire replacement panel from Marty. I have an uncommon paint color so had to wait a while for the right donor truck. Given the color of yours and chrome bumper I'd say you also have the LSE. I found a body shop run by a guy who knows Rovers and he quoted me $430 to do a panel swap. All told the entire fix will cost more than my deductible, but not much more.

There is also a thread on Discoweb somewhere by a guy who did this panel swap himself. I read it and thought it was beyond my shade tree mechanic skills. This is an area I need to leave to the pros.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,922
460
Darien Gap
A metric shit ton

To be more exact, it involves removing most of the interior trim from that area, some electrics, drilling out several rivets, remove dozens of bolts and screws, may need to remove glass too, but the real fun is the butyl sealant, or black goo from hell. I sharpen a putty knife, coat it in WD40, and pound the shit out of it with a rubber mallet. They put it on thick, it sticks to everyfuckingthing, and it does not give up easily.

I hate those fucking panels and how difficult they are to work on so I removed all the sealant with a combination of liquid wrench, heavy duty engine degreaser, and many days of scraping black shit off everything, then replaced it with camper seal foam tape.
 
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fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
I did something similar to my D1, only backing into a tree on a trail. Right about the same spot on the other side. I took my truck to a few auto body shops, they all quoted large numbers for the job which would have required a claim on my auto insurance and paying the $500 deductible.

Then I bought an entire replacement panel from Marty. I have an uncommon paint color so had to wait a while for the right donor truck. Given the color of yours and chrome bumper I'd say you also have the LSE. I found a body shop run by a guy who knows Rovers and he quoted me $430 to do a panel swap. All told the entire fix will cost more than my deductible, but not much more.

There is also a thread on Discoweb somewhere by a guy who did this panel swap himself. I read it and thought it was beyond my shade tree mechanic skills. This is an area I need to leave to the pros.
I think that was RobertF when he put his on its side.

To be more exact, it involves removing most of the interior trim from that area, some electrics, drilling out several rivets, remove dozens of bolts and screws, may need to remove glass too, but the real fun is the butyl sealant, or black goo from hell. I sharpen a putty knife, coat it in WD40, and pound the shit out of it with a rubber mallet. They put it on thick, it sticks to everyfuckingthing, and it does not give up easily.

I hate those fucking panels and how difficult they are to work on so I removed all the sealant with a combination of liquid wrench, heavy duty engine degreaser, and many days of scraping black shit off everything, then replaced it with camper seal foam tape.
You try a heat gun? I used one on that black crap on the front floor pans and it came off like buttuh.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,922
460
Darien Gap
Hard to remember, but I think I was disappointed by the heat gun. Same with trying to freeze it. Maybe it's just the sheer amount of it used. I'd try it again if I had any left.
 

ukoffroad

Well-known member
Jan 13, 2010
2,125
169
Lynchburg, Va
It is not that bad, just time consuming. I pulled one at Wills place last year in about an hour. Just a lot of bolts and that damned panel adhesive.
 

captwyo

Well-known member
Apr 17, 2007
447
0
Wyoming
Well, after dragging my feet for a week I went and had an estimate done. $3300. Watch what you back into! Better yet, don't back into anything.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,795
364
-
I use a gasket scraper and a hammer to remove the panel adhesive from the inner structure. It works well enough that I've never considered the adhesive to be a big deal

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