Brake job labor hour?

[pfb3]

Brake job labor hours?

An independent service shop recommended for LR service (not the dealer) is quoting me 8.25 hours at $80/hr ($660) just for the labor to replace four rotors, pads, repack wheel bearings, and adjust e-brake.

Now I've changed all four rotors/pads including a full fluid flush myself, without a lift, not being an ace mechanic, in less than 2 for all four corners. Is the LR really that much more work, or am I being taken for a ride??

(edit: It's a D1, so not the easier D2...)

 

[neil30076]

On most vehicles the brake disc ( rotor) can be removed without a lot of disassembly, you just pull the wheel, remove the caliper, remove a couple of screws and its off.
No way on LR. you must remove the front hub assembly with the disc mounted to it, and then remove the disc, etc. The back is similar, and if you have abs you must deal with the rotor/sensor set up, and when you put it all back together you check out the drive shaft end play and have to set that as well. I'd say their estimate was about right, unfortunately.
Neil

 

[Blue]

A LR-experienced mechanic with the proper setup should be able to do a good, thorough job on each wheel in about an hour per wheel, start to finish. Sounds like this mechanic just threw in 2 hrs per + 15 minutes to adjust the ebrake. Unless he's not familiar with your truck (and then you don't want him), he won't spend one full shop day on your brake job (repacking bearings is just a matter of course in the brake job).

Now, I may take 2 hours to pull apart a hub assembly and put it back together, but I don't have a slate hanging above my door that says mechanic.

 

[Disco Mike]

So what year and model, 99's and newer are easier then the 98's and older.
Mike J.

 

[stansell]

PFB3- if it is a DII, the job is a piece of cake, don't pay someone else to do it. Plus you get to roll around in brake dust for a couple of hours, doesn't get any better than that.

 

[sanukc]

6 Hours at the most

I just had a complete brake job done on my 95 Disco.

The shop I went to, Biggs Eastside Automotive in Bellevue, WA, took probably 6 hours to change the rotors, the pads, do a complete check and change the fuel filter.

It would depend on the model year of your vehicle. But this has been my experience this last week.

 

[neil30076]

Take a look at the picture at https://www.expeditionexchange.com/dba/DSC02233.jpg
and you will see that the back hub assy must come off before the disc... same for front. I'm sure a LR mechanic can do it in an hour or so per wheel. If you are doing it yourself, get a kit from someone like http://www.roverparts.com/ which incudes all the seals, etc.

 

[pfb3]

It pisses me off to no end that...

-> These shops charge astronomical labor rates ($80 - $100 /hr)

-> Then really double that rate, by charging "book" hours for jobs that they can usually do in half the time.

Seems like catch-22. Pay me a high rate because of my expertise, but charge based on the amount of time a first-month mechanic would take.

Far and away, my absolute worst experiences with LR are whenever I need to deal with dealer or non-dealer service!

So an effective labor rate of $160/hr? For a mechanic? I know lawyers who charge less, not to mention DBA's, Doctors, CPA's, whatever.

 

[Sergei]

What are you talking about..

Just go to local brake shop or 4x4 shop and for about 150$/axle they will do all that to you.

Alternatively you can do it yourself, if you not willing to pay. Its not that hard job.

Adjusting e-brake however - i am not familiar with. Mine need adjustment, but i am saving it for right now..

 

[scubaman99]

if your moderately handy... this is a DIY job...

i cant think of any thing that was terriably difficult about it... if you consider yourself half way mechanical, i'd save the $660 for "toys" for your truck and just do it your self

 

[andrewv]

Mitchell book time is 6.6 hours, FWIW.

 

[pfb3]

I know I could do it myself... As I said in the first post, I've done it on many other vehicles.

But right now, no garage & air tools in storage = in the dirt & kind of a back buster.

My import mechanic friends (as in Asian import, not Euro or GB import) run shops where they charge a fair rate, do excellent quality work, and charge by the actual hour. And won't touch the Rover with a ten foot pole.

My theory is that it is trickle-down mentality, where LR charges just completely silly prices for their parts, their franchise stores then charge silly prices for their labor, so the indi'es think they can charge silly prices for their services as well...

This is not an isolated experience. Every independent LR service shop or dealer I've been too has been the same story.

 

[andrewv]

What in the hell are your import mechanic friends afraid of? Pads, Rotors, Calipers......It's not a rocket ship

 

[RangeRoverHP]

What in the hell are your import mechanic friends afraid of? Pads, Rotors, Calipers......It's not a rocket ship

LOL. You got that right! More like a tractor!


pfb3: You don't need air tools to do the job. Air tools make it easier, but are not necessary. Do it yourself. It's not hard, just time consuming.
What do you do for a living?

 

[scubaman99]

agreed, no air tools needed... this is a job for a good jack, jack stands, some good quality hand tools and a few hours of time.



its a nice diversion if you like getting a little greasy every now and then.

come on, give your rover some love

 

[dent]

agreed, no air tools needed... this is a job for a good jack, jack stands, some good quality hand tools and a few hours of time.

you left out the most import thing... beer.. always have some beer handy

 

[Bahnstorm]

Make sure you have yourself a 52mm hub socket before you get started, almost as important as the beer.

A stuffed 2 1/8" , which is more commonly found, will work in a pinch.

Also if you haven't changed rotors, they can be a real pain to hammer off the hub, especially if they are a bit rusty. My front rotors took a pretty severe beating with a sledge before they seperated.

 

[Steve83]

It does take over an hour for each front hub, if it's done right. There are a lot of seals & gaskets that should be changed while you're in there, and you should even look at your swivel ball seals before you start - you'll be halfway there doing the rotors, so it's the best chance to fix ALL the leaks you have, wash out the CV joints, and refill the hubs with grease.

The rears can be done in less than an hour each, but they're still not like cars. Get all the gaskets & seals before you start, and definitely get the big socket. A 10mm ratcheting box-end wrench will be handy, too.