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bandit86
Guest
took the wheel off to check something, found only 4 bolts holding the front hub-cap thing on, the 5th one broken inside... what's the odds I'll get it out? how could it break?
I removed several and they usually come out fairly easy as they usually break because they are loose. A left hand drill is my favorite choice or drill and an extractor. Replace them with a 10.9 and you will probably never break them again and remember they have been what has driven those wheels for the last 100000 miles so they should be replaced anyway.
I have had several & only one put up a damn fight. drill cutting oil & easyout!
don't break the easyout! Right Thom!
don't break the easyout! Right Thom!
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bandit86
Guest
the other 4 are 10.9, should I even bother? also, the gasket is ruined so i just siliconed her up and slapped her together
Here is the bolt:
parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com
Does anyone recall the thread pitch? The bolt is listed as M10 x 45 ... no pitch listed. Also are the stock ones 10.9 strength/rated? I figure rolled ARP screws are the way to go.
Fun fact: these are screws, not bolts: bolts thread into a nut whereas screws actually thread into a pocket.
BX110095M - Land Rover Bolt
Genuine BX110095M - Land Rover Bolt available from Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts. We supply authentic parts for classic Jaguars and Land Rovers.
Does anyone recall the thread pitch? The bolt is listed as M10 x 45 ... no pitch listed. Also are the stock ones 10.9 strength/rated? I figure rolled ARP screws are the way to go.
Fun fact: these are screws, not bolts: bolts thread into a nut whereas screws actually thread into a pocket.
Always heat those before you take them out. You just need to get them hot enough to melt the threadlock. Doesn’t need to be super hot, map gas is enough.
Too late now I know. But in the future you know.
Too late now I know. But in the future you know.
Standard coarse thread.
I recently used 10x50 Allen screws instead of hex. 17mm hex head lends itself to over-torquing.