Came back to LR with my new '03 Disco: Intro, Questions, etc...

[///M3///M5]

Seems like you guys have a great forum going on here. I'm excited to contribute and continue to learn from you guys. I had a 97 Vitesse RR 6 or so years ago and that was a pretty bad experience over all. Air suspension failing, sun roof failing, basically nothing electronic working when we sold it. For some strange reason I still loved the car. After a hiatus into the BMW world for the past five years I just picked up an '03 Disco. I do not know the service history of the car at all, but it was a deal I could not pass up. It has 74k on it and apparently came off lease and was driven to GA from CA.

I picked it up last weekend and am loving it so far, but my 5 days with it have not come without questions or problems.

1. I got the car home and rolled down the window only to smell oil burning like no other. I did not notice this on the test drive at all, which was surprising. Either way, I parked it and in 5 mins there was a 4 in diameter puddle of oil under her. I was disappointed and anxious to say the least. I got it up to the shop and 10PM and it all seemed to be coming from a hand tight 22 mm bolt right next to the oil filter. I am not sure at all what it is there for, but it definitely has some pressurized oil behind it. Pulled it out, I noticed the sealing o-ring was a solid as a rock and had a chunk missing. I replaced it and no more oil from there! I cannot tell if there are other leaks because that thing was leaking so much (about a drip per second) that all the oil has not dried/gone from its damage. Either way, when I was under the car I noticed a few things that I wanted you guys opinions on:

• The oil pan has RTV around it. Still has a gasket, but definitely has been RTVed also. Now, whenever I build a motor I always RTV the pan even when using a gasket, but I have NEVER seen an OE do it. It makes me think the pan has been removed. My car DOES NOT fall into the oil pump recall VIN range. Any ideas?
• I also noticed the exhaust manifold has been gray RTVed onto the mid/down pipes.

2. I have noticed a pretty nice clunk when turning right, decelerating sometimes to a stop, and starting off from a stop or lifting off the throttle. I figured U-Joints? Anything else I should check? Motor mounts look fine. Are the diffs in these things recalled? I thought I read that they were...

3. When the car is in a drive gear (1, 2, 3, D, or R) and at a stop there is a humming/rattle from under the car. Putting it in N or P stops it and so does simply driving. I have not clue what this is. Any ideas?

4. The top end of the engine seems untouched except for the air box to MAF connecting tabs are broken. Any clue how much another air box top is? I mean it is pre-MAF, but still...

5. Finally, I am obviously concerned with how this car was maintained and I do not want the fall into the same trap I did with the RR. So what should I do as preventive maintenance? I will obviously do plugs and wires and the U-joints if you guys suggest them. What else?

 

[michaels]

well if you don't have any service history and since it's new to you, i'd do the whole 60k mile service to her right away. i forgot who it was, but this was on another board for what to do when you reach 60k or buy a used car with unknown maintenance:

his is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service the way I do it.
1 Oil filter , K&N 3001
1 Air filter
1 Transmission filter kit
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transsmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnecor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam


60,000 Mile Service
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc

i'd say pick and choose what you really feel needs to be done, but overall, i'd just do it all just to be safe, then you'll have a solid refernce point for maintenance from here on out.

 

[///M3///M5]

That is exactly what I was look for from a maintenance standpoint. Thanks a lot!

I don't want to distract too much from my questions up top, but do you guys recommend a particular service manual? Looking around it seems most manuals are only advertised up to '02.

 

[adriatic04]

here is your service schedule for 4.6l 2003 & 2004, http://landroverresource.com/docs/D2_03-04.pdf

this is the manual that we all use, referred to as RAVE, download the file next to the "large file warning" http://landroverresource.com/

 

[dannyballs]

here is your service schedule for 4.6l 2003 & 2004, http://landroverresource.com/docs/D2_03-04.pdf

this is the manual that we all use, referred to as RAVE, download the file next to the "large file warning" http://landroverresource.com/

Is this version of the RAVE manual good for the 2004 model? If not 100%, are there any other versions available? Thx

 

[SGaynor]

Yes, the manual covers up through '04.

Edit: Forgot to add - change the u-joints on the front drive shaft, if they have not already been done (all three will have zerk fittings, OE only 2 out of 3 have zerks). Their proximity to the catalytic converter causes the grease to dry out, causing catastrophic failure (takes out a chunk of the tranny). Use the search function for u-joint, and see the tech section for more info.

 

[SGaynor]

The clunk is normal when lifting off/stepping on the throttle.

If it is occurring when turning right - CV joint?

 

[brianhoberg]

The 60k was one of the most expensive in my opinion because of all the fluids and parts you are replacing. The plugs, wires, and serp belt were enough for me. I chose to use synthetic fluids rather than conventional which drove the cost up a bit more as well. Also while I had the plenum off to reach the coil packs in the back for the plug wires (some say you don't have to, others say it's impossible unless you do), I replaced the valve cover gaskets and plenum gasket as a just-to-make-sure measure. Wasn't neccessary, but saved me from ripping it all out again in the future.

 

[brianhoberg]

2. I have noticed a pretty nice clunk when turning right, decelerating sometimes to a stop, and starting off from a stop or lifting off the throttle. I figured U-Joints? Anything else I should check? Motor mounts look fine. Are the diffs in these things recalled? I thought I read that they were...

Makes me wonder if the CV joint is going out or if your steering linkage needs to be adjusted. Is it lifted?

3. When the car is in a drive gear (1, 2, 3, D, or R) and at a stop there is a humming/rattle from under the car. Putting it in N or P stops it and so does simply driving. I have not clue what this is. Any ideas?

Is it your catalytic converters? Is it coming from the exhaust system?

4. The top end of the engine seems untouched except for the air box to MAF connecting tabs are broken. Any clue how much another air box top is? I mean it is pre-MAF, but still...

Mine are broken too. I drove to Minnesota and back without the tabs connected properly and had no issue. It's fairly tight, but it it worries you, you can always put a ring of duct-tape on it till you can get another one. Will Tillery or Drillbit can get you an 03-04. I think I paid $35 for mine from Drillbit (Marty).

5. Finally, I am obviously concerned with how this car was maintained and I do not want the fall into the same trap I did with the RR. So what should I do as preventive maintenance? I will obviously do plugs and wires and the U-joints if you guys suggest them. What else?

Remember that preventative maintenance and proper care will reduce your chances of being stranded at a later date on the side of a road/trail due to wear/tear. Rovers leak, but they shouldn't leak like a seeve. Main thing is, check your gaskets, change your fluids, and have fun in it.

Cheers,
Brian.

 

[adriatic04]

Is this version of the RAVE manual good for the 2004 model? If not 100%, are there any other versions available? Thx

its the most recent version, has reference to 2003+ MY vehicles, which is 03 and 04

 

[dannyballs]

its the most recent version, has reference to 2003+ MY vehicles, which is 03 and 04

What about the Electrical components? The file only lists up through the '03 MY. Any huge differences between the '03 and '04 from an electrical persepctive?

 

[brianhoberg]

What about the Electrical components? The file only lists up through the '03 MY. Any huge differences between the '03 and '04 from an electrical persepctive?

I can't think of any off the top of my head. the major differences are seen in the up to MY 2002 versus 2003-2004 MY.

 

[Blue]

check the tie rods too (might be the clunk you're hearing).

 

[///M3///M5]

Wow! Thanks for all the replies guys. As for the CV joint, where can I get a new one? I am used to wholesale BMW parts so I have always gotten OE or OEM direct replacements. Where do most of you guys shop for stuff?

 

[///M3///M5]

check the tie rods too (might be the clunk you're hearing).

That was going to be the first thing I checked after the u-joint replacement. Common 'clunk' spot on BMWs.

Can anyone confirm if the diffs on these things were recalled?

 

[brianhoberg]

Wow! Thanks for all the replies guys. As for the CV joint, where can I get a new one? I am used to wholesale BMW parts so I have always gotten OE or OEM direct replacements. Where do most of you guys shop for stuff?

If you can get it used: Will Tillery or Drillbit
If you need it new: Check the resources section on dweb's front page. Atlantic British is common. Expedition Exchange has some nice stuff for the rover. DAP prices aren't too bad. Just really depends on what you need. Just because it's expensive, doesn't mean it's the best.

 

[gabriel]

Mine are broken too. I drove to Minnesota and back without the tabs connected properly and had no issue. It's fairly tight, but it it worries you, you can always put a ring of duct-tape on it till you can get another one. Will Tillery or Drillbit can get you an 03-04. I think I paid $35 for mine from Drillbit (Marty).

A 4"/5" hose clamp will secure the tabs and fit under the clips also.