What company?Devildog01 said:
Did you set the coverage at $8000 or is that market value?
I asked my insurance guy about added coverage on my truck due to all the parts and work done and he had no clue.
car fire: best response?
- Thread starter Tugela
- Start date
Did you set the coverage at $8000 or is that market value?
I asked my insurance guy about added coverage on my truck due to all the parts and work done and he had no clue.
OFF ROAD INSURANCE... 15 yrs ago when I purchased my 87 rr I had progressive, they sold me "off-road recovery coverage" since I stated I did plan on off roading the truck. forward a year later and I broke an axle and blew a diff off road and crossing a creek... I called progessive, their response even thou I had a 250 liability deductibe " you are liable for the first $500.00 billed from the towing co, that is if they can get to where you are and then you need to file a separate claim for the repairs, that carries a deductible as well"
I bit the bullet, and some guys pulled me out to the road...
next renewal I dumped them and went with my current carrier and liability... after all I ended up paying for all the repairs and not making a claim to progressive... since then I have mantained that off road coverage is just a frigging gimmick...just my two cents..
I bit the bullet, and some guys pulled me out to the road...
next renewal I dumped them and went with my current carrier and liability... after all I ended up paying for all the repairs and not making a claim to progressive... since then I have mantained that off road coverage is just a frigging gimmick...just my two cents..
Morphed thread....
In regards to fire... I has a carb on my boat burst a leak and started a fire. a 5lb can was more than enough to take care if it because I got on it fast. That was my only personal experience...
Another time, I was on an off ramp on an expressway waiting for the light to change. There was a guy two cars up and suddenly the bottom of his car BURST into flames. Like "POOF" and is looked like a stove burner. The guy got out and within 30 seconds the entire bottom and engine compartment was engulfed. I don't think anything other than a pumper truck would have put that out.
In regards to insurance, comprehensive and collision coverage will cover you for a "fair market value." There are companies that will offer riders for custom parts etc either as add-ons to their own policies, or as secondary insurance to other policies. It typically makes your coverage more expensive. A lot of insurance companies will have clauses that will not cover your truck off-road. You may need a rider to insure your truck for the trails.
If you designate your truck as a "toy" and not used for street use, you may be able to get pretty good coverage for less money.
It would serve you best to FULLY understand your policy if you want to avoid issues. If you can't; hire a lawyer. There is a reason why they are expensive.... They are worth it.
In regards to fire... I has a carb on my boat burst a leak and started a fire. a 5lb can was more than enough to take care if it because I got on it fast. That was my only personal experience...
Another time, I was on an off ramp on an expressway waiting for the light to change. There was a guy two cars up and suddenly the bottom of his car BURST into flames. Like "POOF" and is looked like a stove burner. The guy got out and within 30 seconds the entire bottom and engine compartment was engulfed. I don't think anything other than a pumper truck would have put that out.
In regards to insurance, comprehensive and collision coverage will cover you for a "fair market value." There are companies that will offer riders for custom parts etc either as add-ons to their own policies, or as secondary insurance to other policies. It typically makes your coverage more expensive. A lot of insurance companies will have clauses that will not cover your truck off-road. You may need a rider to insure your truck for the trails.
If you designate your truck as a "toy" and not used for street use, you may be able to get pretty good coverage for less money.
It would serve you best to FULLY understand your policy if you want to avoid issues. If you can't; hire a lawyer. There is a reason why they are expensive.... They are worth it.
Morphed thread....
In regards to fire... I has a carb on my boat burst a leak and started a fire. a 5lb can was more than enough to take care if it because I got on it fast. That was my only personal experience...
Another time, I was on an off ramp on an expressway waiting for the light to change. There was a guy two cars up and suddenly the bottom of his car BURST into flames. Like "POOF" and is looked like a stove burner. The guy got out and within 30 seconds the entire bottom and engine compartment was engulfed. I don't think anything other than a pumper truck would have put that out.
In regards to insurance, comprehensive and collision coverage will cover you for a "fair market value." There are companies that will offer riders for custom parts etc either as add-ons to their own policies, or as secondary insurance to other policies. It typically makes your coverage more expensive. A lot of insurance companies will have clauses that will not cover your truck off-road. You may need a rider to insure your truck for the trails.
If you designate your truck as a "toy" and not used for street use, you may be able to get pretty good coverage for less money.
It would serve you best to FULLY understand your policy if you want to avoid issues. If you can't; hire a lawyer. There is a reason why they are expensive.... They are worth it.
In regards to fire... I has a carb on my boat burst a leak and started a fire. a 5lb can was more than enough to take care if it because I got on it fast. That was my only personal experience...
Another time, I was on an off ramp on an expressway waiting for the light to change. There was a guy two cars up and suddenly the bottom of his car BURST into flames. Like "POOF" and is looked like a stove burner. The guy got out and within 30 seconds the entire bottom and engine compartment was engulfed. I don't think anything other than a pumper truck would have put that out.
In regards to insurance, comprehensive and collision coverage will cover you for a "fair market value." There are companies that will offer riders for custom parts etc either as add-ons to their own policies, or as secondary insurance to other policies. It typically makes your coverage more expensive. A lot of insurance companies will have clauses that will not cover your truck off-road. You may need a rider to insure your truck for the trails.
If you designate your truck as a "toy" and not used for street use, you may be able to get pretty good coverage for less money.
It would serve you best to FULLY understand your policy if you want to avoid issues. If you can't; hire a lawyer. There is a reason why they are expensive.... They are worth it.
fishEH said:
I have full coverage with Geico now. I used to have a great rate until my daughter rear-ended 4 cars and my wife did a 360 on the ice and took out 4 cars, including a squad, and totaled her own car. I think we racked up nearly $20k in payouts in 2011....
I had a quote with 21st century all set up, saving about $1000 in premiums, and they denied me at the last minute.... INSURANCE COMPANIES SHARE INFORMATION WITH EACH OTHER!!!! NO PRIVACY!
With that being said.... If I were to total my truck at Cliffs or some other pay-to-play area, I would be screwed. If I were at a "State Park" type of place such at the pipe line, I should be OK (unless they decide that I could have taken a paved road to get from point a to point b).
It's difficult to plan for a vehicle fire.
In nearly any car, you have fuel of at least one kind, several oils, various plastics and insulation, synthetic and/or natural rubber, a lead/acid battery, at lease one kind of grease, accumulated contaminants, various types of foam used in everything from cushions to molded panels, upholstery of many varieties, and any number of items you may have placed in the vehicle.
Some vehicles are fitted with parts made of incredibly dangerous metals that will burn a hole right into the pavement if they light up.
Whether or not a fire can be extinguished without destroying the vehicle in the process depends entirely on the point of ignition and any surrounding conditions that may affect how it spreads.
Carry the biggest extinguisher you can. I use a commercial-grade extinguisher. If you've got a Co2 Tank, you have another option for pesky faults in difficult to access areas such as the dashboard or into the engine compartment before it's opened, and even a way to cool things down, but don't blame me if you fuck up with it and worsen the fire or hurt yourself.
You need to know how all of this works, such as when it's safe to open the hood or disconnect the battery. Sometimes, you know less than you think. I've seen plenty of firemen do some incredibly stupid things, and fires are their job.
If you aren't confident, just watch it burn.
The most important things you need to know are the precise condition of everything in your vehicle to avoid the issue as best as possible, and when to walk away.
Importantly, if you do manage to extinguish a fire, do not get back in the vehicle. It's just like a failed explosive device. Leave it alone for a while, and have it removed to a safe location where it can be disabled, observed, tested, and repaired.
Not all of this applies, of course, if you are in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes, you've just got to keep the faith.
Cheers,
Kennith
In nearly any car, you have fuel of at least one kind, several oils, various plastics and insulation, synthetic and/or natural rubber, a lead/acid battery, at lease one kind of grease, accumulated contaminants, various types of foam used in everything from cushions to molded panels, upholstery of many varieties, and any number of items you may have placed in the vehicle.
Some vehicles are fitted with parts made of incredibly dangerous metals that will burn a hole right into the pavement if they light up.
Whether or not a fire can be extinguished without destroying the vehicle in the process depends entirely on the point of ignition and any surrounding conditions that may affect how it spreads.
Carry the biggest extinguisher you can. I use a commercial-grade extinguisher. If you've got a Co2 Tank, you have another option for pesky faults in difficult to access areas such as the dashboard or into the engine compartment before it's opened, and even a way to cool things down, but don't blame me if you fuck up with it and worsen the fire or hurt yourself.
You need to know how all of this works, such as when it's safe to open the hood or disconnect the battery. Sometimes, you know less than you think. I've seen plenty of firemen do some incredibly stupid things, and fires are their job.
If you aren't confident, just watch it burn.
The most important things you need to know are the precise condition of everything in your vehicle to avoid the issue as best as possible, and when to walk away.
Importantly, if you do manage to extinguish a fire, do not get back in the vehicle. It's just like a failed explosive device. Leave it alone for a while, and have it removed to a safe location where it can be disabled, observed, tested, and repaired.
Not all of this applies, of course, if you are in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes, you've just got to keep the faith.
Cheers,
Kennith
Tugela said:
The first part of this question has endless answers, but would include taking time to properly wire and or fuse any electrical devices you add to your ride to prevent electrical fires, maintain your brakes to avoid brake fires, check and replace worn hoses that carry any type of petroleum based fliuds like tranny cooler lines, oil cooler lines and so on to avoid chemical fires. As far as fighting the fire your first line of defense should be a B-C dry chemical fire extinguisher unless you prefer C02 so you don't get dry chem all over the place. I personally carry a 20lb B-C mounted in my truck with a flexible hose and can put a huge dent in a pretty good fire with it, but it's more than likely most people will have or should at least have 2 of the 5lb throw away units. I prefer the units with the hose so you can aim the dry chem without having to shove the entire extinguisher into the area with fire if at all possible.
If you do in fact have an extinguisher in your vehicle make sure it's mounted somewhere your not going to have to dig it out or look for it when you need it because the clocks ticking and the fire aint waiting. I also carry a small fire axe called The Truckman that has an axe on one side and a point on the other that I use for piercing metal (this is very important feature that I'll explain later) and a pair of large diameter cable cutters.
As soon as you realize there may be fire under your hood or if helping someone else you turn the key off and pop the hood latch in the cab if it is safe to do so before the fire melts the cable that releases the hood and shut of the fuel pump and electrical system that may be the cause of the fire. If there is no heavy smoke or visible flame coming from under the hood you can try to pop the hood from the front and raise the hood and start hitting the base of the fire with the dry chem until you either knock the fire down or run out of dry chem. If the fire has had some time to burn the release cable and or there is heavy smoke or flames are present then you need to assess if you can safely get to the center of the hood to punch a hole in it, this is where the pointed side of the axe comes in and why I prefer an extinguisher with a hose. Most people are going to freak out when you go and punch a hole through there hood but this may save your ride. Make sure you get through the sound deadener with your hole and shove the nozzle of the extinguisher in it all shoot the dry chem in to smother the flame. Don't blow the whole extinguisher in one shot while your doing it this way, you may need to shoot it under the front and upwards into the engine compartment to knock the rest down.
If you did get the fire knocked down and feel safe doing so, disconect the battery cables from the battery or cut if the they look completly burnt up. Theres no sense in ruining the cables if it's not needed. Disconnecting the cables is very important if you find that the wires were smoking when you first popped the hood or the smell of electrical fire was the indicating factor that threw up the first alarms of impending doom. The fire will most likely start back up if you haven't disconnected the short.
Whatever the scenario is, you need to decide what is at stake when you come up on a car fire and what the main goal is. If there is not a life at stake and it's gone through the engine bay, the tires are on fire or the interior is burning you need to step back, keep a safe distance and stay on the unburnt side of the vehicle safely out of the roadway. If you don't feel comfortable using or have never used an extinguisher in anger, contact your local fire dept and see if they offer training and don't feel afraid or ashamed to ask for experienced help. They will more than likely be happy to help with any questions you may have.
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