Care for leather boots

[Slappy]

I'm a fan of mink oil. I use them on my 10" fire boots as well as my Asolo backpacking boots. A can lasts a long time as well as one coat. Keeps 'em looking new too. My fire boots have been out on too many rainy days to remember and they always kept my feet dry.

 

[bigred]

I've been using mink oil forever. I regularly use it on a pair of HH Brown boots that are 20 years old and the leather is still in great shape.

 

[GregH]

Not a fan of mink oil-I prefer my boots to stay stiff and not loosen up stitching.

I used many blue cans of Sno-Seal beeswax since the 70's. You have to warm the leather during the application but it definitely waterproofs and lubricates leather boots.

However a friend with some Limmer boots swears by Limmer boot grease. Not sure if it works well on different tanned leather than what Limmer uses though.

 

[Roverlady]

Ivan and I have both used mink oil for years on our boots. If you apply it carefully with a new cloth you can avoid the stitching. It has worked well on everything from hiking boots to dress shoes to cowboy boots.

I've used the spray sealant on some non-waterproof boots that worked to keep water out but discolored the leather. In that instance it was fine because they were "barn boots" that I wasn't trying to preserve. I wouldnt dare use that stuff on my expensive riding boots or equipment.

For general leather conditioning you can't beat pure neatsfoot oil.

 

[knewsom]

Roverlady brings up an interesting point regarding Mink Oil. Yes, if applied carefully, you can avoid the seams... but that will result in seams that are not waterproof. Solutions like Bear Guard will allow you to waterproof the seams and the rest of the leather as well.

 

[Ballah06]

IIRC it may have been Snow Seal I used on a new pair of Danner's and it pretty much got that white crap all over them, flaky looking (boots are brown btw). And I havent been able to get it off them no matter what i tried.

 

[Rusty Shackelford]

I don't like Snow Seal because it completely kills the breathability of leather. I ruined a pair of Sorels with Snow Seal, they stopped breathing, moisture built-up inside and my feet were always clammy, cold and often frozen solid (no exageration, there was often a thin layer of ice on the bottom of the liners!). Make sure to use a product that allows the leather to breathe as nature intended.

 

[GregH]

IIRC it may have been Snow Seal I used on a new pair of Danner's and it pretty much got that white crap all over them, flaky looking (boots are brown btw). And I havent been able to get it off them no matter what i tried.

Yes-that will happen if you don't warm the boots. IIRC Sno-Seal says no more than 120F so the wax melts. I scrape off excess and use a blow dryer when applying.

I've never had a problem with the inside of my boots collecting too much moisture from sweating even though I use the same old Raichle's in 100F+ temps as well as across glaciers with crampons and also scrambling/hiking in sharp talus. I always use a liner sock under good hiking socks to wick away moisture as much as possible.

As far as mink oil-I use my boots for backpacking in the Sierra's and I've seen boots treated with mink oil soften up so that the boots lose lateral support and also soften up so that sharp rocks start tearing the leather. In addition you start having leaks at the seams from where the stitching is when crossing multiple streams. When carrying a 75 lb. pack up and down rocky trails you need stiff lateral support. Add in crossing streams and snow-I wouldn't use it.

I think those talking about the Dubbins/Bear Guard may be on to something as it sounds similar to the Limmer's boot grease that my friend uses-which I think has animal tallow and wax. I've never used it though.

 

[GregH]

I don't like Snow Seal because it completely kills the breathability of leather. I ruined a pair of Sorels with Snow Seal, they stopped breathing, moisture built-up inside and my feet were always clammy, cold and often frozen solid (no exageration, there was often a thin layer of ice on the bottom of the liners!). Make sure to use a product that allows the leather to breathe as nature intended.

I wouldn't use sno-seal on my Sorel Caribous or my North Face snow boots. The lowers are completely rubber and only the uppers are leather. I use a spray-on waterproof on the leather every season and seam sealer on the stitching.

 

[Two Cold Soakers]

Mink Oil.

Beware. Some "mink oils" will be loaded with silicone.
You don't want to put silicone on your new leather boots.

 

[bovw]

I've had good luck with sno-seal. I also use a hair dryer and wipe off the excess before it sets. I don't treat very frequently, but I usually get 2-3 months before wetness seeps in and I remember to treat them again.

Also, sno-seal was what was recommended buy the boot shop I use.

 

[Ballah06]

Yes-that will happen if you don't warm the boots. IIRC Sno-Seal says no more than 120F so the wax melts. I scrape off excess and use a blow dryer when applying.

I've never had a problem with the inside of my boots collecting too much moisture from sweating even though I use the same old Raichle's in 100F+ temps as well as across glaciers with crampons and also scrambling/hiking in sharp talus. I always use a liner sock under good hiking socks to wick away moisture as much as possible.

As far as mink oil-I use my boots for backpacking in the Sierra's and I've seen boots treated with mink oil soften up so that the boots lose lateral support and also soften up so that sharp rocks start tearing the leather. In addition you start having leaks at the seams from where the stitching is when crossing multiple streams. When carrying a 75 lb. pack up and down rocky trails you need stiff lateral support. Add in crossing streams and snow-I wouldn't use it.

I think those talking about the Dubbins/Bear Guard may be on to something as it sounds similar to the Limmer's boot grease that my friend uses-which I think has animal tallow and wax. I've never used it though.

Shit, that makes sense. Was in the middle of Astan when doing that, so may try and take a blow dryer to them now. Practically new, but have the white stuff on them now. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Ed Cheung]

I use WD-40.

 

[GregH]

I use WD-40.

Don't put your feet near the fire.

 

[kennith]

I use Kiwi shoe polish. Oiling them helps if you want to take it a step further.

Good socks work well to help keep the moisture from sticking in there, but you are going to need some old-fashioned tricks to keep your feet completely dry. Most of the water, however, comes in through openings and ill-fitting joints.

The leather itself can take a mighty wet beating if it's regularly oiled or polished in a traditional manner. You really need the protection around the spots that are going to let the water in. Once it gets in, it's not coming out, no matter how fancy your boots are.

I've got a set of regular old Georgia boots that I've stomped through countless swampy areas in, with no issues. Simple combat boots have served me well in very wet and snowy conditions, as well as in service. You don't need anything fancy.

My Gore-Tex lined Eccos work very well, but the same issues apply. Water is going to get in one way or another.

Wax, polish, oil, sealant, gaiters, and good socks. That's how it works. There isn't a way around it, unless you either wear overshoes or wellies.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[Ed Cheung]

Don't put your feet near the fire.

I even cook with WD-40.

 

[Mike_Rupp]

Damn Greg, you hike with a 75 lb pack? The last time I went out, my pack was 47 lbs and I had an old massive 4lb thermarest, food for 4 days, gps, ham radio, water, huge water filter, etc. After hiking with that much weight, I decided I'll be upgrading a lot of items and leaving a few things at home.

 

[Axel]

I've never found anything that waterproofs leather better than Bear Guard.

I second that. Warm up the boots, and apply liberally. Make sure to cover the seams well, too. I have been using bear fat since the old days when I was doing winter search and rescue back in Norway.

Wax, polish, oil, sealant, gaiters, and good socks. That's how it works. There isn't a way around it, unless you either wear overshoes or wellies.

Exactly. They key is to keep everything dry, properly layered and breathing. Never use cotton socks in the winter. In the artic, we would use a thin nylon type sock, and then wool socks over it. With that, a properly maintained boot and gaiters, your feet will never get cold in the snow. Get wet in Artic conditions, and you will die quickly.

 

[GregH]

I even cook with WD-40.

Yum.

 

[GregH]

Damn Greg, you hike with a 75 lb pack? The last time I went out, my pack was 47 lbs and I had an old massive 4lb thermarest, food for 4 days, gps, ham radio, water, huge water filter, etc. After hiking with that much weight, I decided I'll be upgrading a lot of items and leaving a few things at home.

Yes I have but it's not my usual pack weight. I'm talking about a 220 mile trip on the John Muir Trail with only one food drop. So my pack got lighter as the trip progressed until we hit the next food drop. The vast majority of trips I've taken are shorter and thus lighter because of food.

I admit I have sometimes gone "overweight" on purpose too. I once packed 3 days (without telling those with me) with a small watermelon and a couple bottles of soda just so I could break them out on top of Forester Pass. The weight drop after that was sheer pleasure.