Changing front Caliper on 95 D1..
- Thread starter zende
- Start date
You will need to bleed the brakes. If you understand the process and have a helper, no more than 10 mins. per caliper.
Have a pint of fluid ready per new caliper.
Get a small stool about as tall as the caliper is off the ground (while on jacks) - I use a milk crate.
Get a clean glass jar (pickles, jelly, 8-12 oz.)
Get some clear plastic tubing (2-3 ft) that will fit snugly over the chrome nipple on the caliper. (1/8" - 3/16") Bring the nipple with you to find the tubing. (for reference, the tubing needs to hang from friction on the nipple while full of fluid) just get a decent "finger tight" fit.
Get a box wrench that fits the nipple. 10 mm on my 97.
Install the caliper (don't "fill it up" or anything) and tighten everything down to spec. Leave the wheel off.
Loosen the nipple and then tighten it down less than 1/4 turn past finger tight.
Fill the reservoir with the proper brake fluid and replace reservoir cap.
Gently pump the brakes a few times. Refill the reservoir as required to keep it above the "MIN" line. Repeat until the fluid level remains constant (2-4x)
Get a helper and explain (this is the most important part)
You need to push the brake pedal and hold it down, releasing only when told "release"
Put the helper in the driver seat with the window down. Adjust the seat for the helper's height, they'll be mashing the brake pedal to the firewall.
Turn off all cell phones. Lock the kids in their room. You need to give this your undivided attention.
Put the jar on the stool or milk crate, half full of fresh brake fluid. Attach the hose to the nipple, put the other end in the jar, under the fluid. Get the 10mm wrench on the nipple.
you say - "Apply Brakes hold it down" (hopefully they comply) -
While they are standing on the brake, you loosen the nipple less than 1/2 turn. Bubbles will rise from the hose end. The pedal will travel all the way. When the bubbles stop, tighten the nipple.
You say "release". Take a breath.
You say "Stand on it". the pedal may not travel. Hold pressure - it'll compress when the nipple is loosened.
Loosen, watch bubbles, tighten, "Release",
"Stand on it", loosen, watch bubbles, tighten, "Release"...
Check the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it above the MIN line.
Repeat until the bubbles stop. The clear tubing lets you see when air leaves the caliper. You'll know for sure when the old fluid starts to fill the jar. I'll look cloudy at best, black at worst. If you're really a nitpick, keep on bleeding till the old fluid is out of the system. Have at least two quarts for 4 wheels.
Tighten the nipple to spec (pretty wrench tight). Put the blue or yellow little soft plastic top hat thingy from the pipe hole on top of the nipple. We can call it a pastie.
You will need to drain down the jar at least once, but a bigger jar may allow the hose out of the fluid. Keep the hose under the fluid, because if you're not tightened down during a pedal release, air will be sucked back into the hose. (This will happen, don't sweat it, you and your helper are new at this, and the worst that can happen is you'll need another can of fluid).
If you have more than one wheel to bleed, start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, and finish with the wheel closest, on NAS vehicles, Right Rear, LR, RF, LF.
You're done. Reassemble and test drive.
If your brakes feel soft or spongy, you have air in the system. Repeat the above steps and it'll come out. If you are methodical, there should be no air left. Follow the above steps in a methodical manner, pay attention and understand what you are trying to accomplish.
The secret is to keep the reservoir filled and get all the air out. Run through at least 10% more fluid than you think you need.
This is not difficult, and it will elevate you to an intermediate level of driveway mechanic-ry.
Have a pint of fluid ready per new caliper.
Get a small stool about as tall as the caliper is off the ground (while on jacks) - I use a milk crate.
Get a clean glass jar (pickles, jelly, 8-12 oz.)
Get some clear plastic tubing (2-3 ft) that will fit snugly over the chrome nipple on the caliper. (1/8" - 3/16") Bring the nipple with you to find the tubing. (for reference, the tubing needs to hang from friction on the nipple while full of fluid) just get a decent "finger tight" fit.
Get a box wrench that fits the nipple. 10 mm on my 97.
Install the caliper (don't "fill it up" or anything) and tighten everything down to spec. Leave the wheel off.
Loosen the nipple and then tighten it down less than 1/4 turn past finger tight.
Fill the reservoir with the proper brake fluid and replace reservoir cap.
Gently pump the brakes a few times. Refill the reservoir as required to keep it above the "MIN" line. Repeat until the fluid level remains constant (2-4x)
Get a helper and explain (this is the most important part)
You need to push the brake pedal and hold it down, releasing only when told "release"
Put the helper in the driver seat with the window down. Adjust the seat for the helper's height, they'll be mashing the brake pedal to the firewall.
Turn off all cell phones. Lock the kids in their room. You need to give this your undivided attention.
Put the jar on the stool or milk crate, half full of fresh brake fluid. Attach the hose to the nipple, put the other end in the jar, under the fluid. Get the 10mm wrench on the nipple.
you say - "Apply Brakes hold it down" (hopefully they comply) -
While they are standing on the brake, you loosen the nipple less than 1/2 turn. Bubbles will rise from the hose end. The pedal will travel all the way. When the bubbles stop, tighten the nipple.
You say "release". Take a breath.
You say "Stand on it". the pedal may not travel. Hold pressure - it'll compress when the nipple is loosened.
Loosen, watch bubbles, tighten, "Release",
"Stand on it", loosen, watch bubbles, tighten, "Release"...
Check the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it above the MIN line.
Repeat until the bubbles stop. The clear tubing lets you see when air leaves the caliper. You'll know for sure when the old fluid starts to fill the jar. I'll look cloudy at best, black at worst. If you're really a nitpick, keep on bleeding till the old fluid is out of the system. Have at least two quarts for 4 wheels.
Tighten the nipple to spec (pretty wrench tight). Put the blue or yellow little soft plastic top hat thingy from the pipe hole on top of the nipple. We can call it a pastie.
You will need to drain down the jar at least once, but a bigger jar may allow the hose out of the fluid. Keep the hose under the fluid, because if you're not tightened down during a pedal release, air will be sucked back into the hose. (This will happen, don't sweat it, you and your helper are new at this, and the worst that can happen is you'll need another can of fluid).
If you have more than one wheel to bleed, start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, and finish with the wheel closest, on NAS vehicles, Right Rear, LR, RF, LF.
You're done. Reassemble and test drive.
If your brakes feel soft or spongy, you have air in the system. Repeat the above steps and it'll come out. If you are methodical, there should be no air left. Follow the above steps in a methodical manner, pay attention and understand what you are trying to accomplish.
The secret is to keep the reservoir filled and get all the air out. Run through at least 10% more fluid than you think you need.
This is not difficult, and it will elevate you to an intermediate level of driveway mechanic-ry.
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