CKPS Will it fail if the battery arcs with ignition on?

[SailorMac]

'02 D2 Was having problems with stalling and nots tarting and throwing codes, changed the TPS and CKPS (original Land Rover Bosch part). Was working fine for about 20 starts. Then I got smart and pulled out my new multimeter and tried to test the battery; had it connected wrong and arced the battery (epic fail) while the ignition was on. Since then we had trouble starting it once and then it started on the second try but threw Pending codes P0560 and P1536. I cleared the codes and took it in for emissions testing this morning and passed. Afterwards went to the grocery store and it wouldn't start until I gave it throttle (like before we changed the CKPS). Once it starts it runs with no problems. Got it home and read Pending Codes P0560 and P1536 again. Also restarted in the garage with no problem. Do you think I fried my new CKPS? I think I am going to change the CKPS again and then stay clear of my battery. Any thoughts?
Thanks

 

[kc disco guy]

Its possible I would try changing the crank shaft position sensor and let us know what happens.

 

[mbrummal]

If giving it full throttle helps it start, it might not be the CkPS. Full throttle at startup is usually used to clear up a flooded engine. Does the exhaust smell like gas when it doesn't start?

P1536 is a fault with the AC compressor relay (open circuit) and should have nothing to do with starting.

 

[SailorMac]

No smell of gas. It appears to not be getting enough gas during start sometimes. Once it starts it runs perfectly.

 

[kc disco guy]

You could have fried the crank shaft position sensor

 

[SailorMac]

Fuel Pump?

Ok, so changed the CKPS again (getting better at this, less than 1 hour instead of 3 and didn't need to drop the exhaust). Worked fine for several trips yesterday but then failed to start in the garage this afternoon. I am thinking maybe fuel pump??? Ogling to start down that diagnostic path next.

 

[clarkwjackson]

Ckps, rollover switch determine if the fuel pump circuit energizes. A quick way to see if your pump is energizing when the key is turned to the run (not cranking) position. Rig a test light. It should come on. If it does, you might have what I'm fighting right now, a fuel pump that doesn't hold residual pressure in the line when not running. I'm just trying to find a replacement pump now, although sometimes the rubber hoses on the fuel pump assembly can crack and leak down pressure. Hope you get a handle on it, it can really get irritating.

 

[carlosz]

when it fails to start, check fuse 14 which is power to coils ( or test the red wire into coils )... disco 2 fuse boxes are beginning to develop internal shorts to circuits such as power locks, wipers coils.
in the last year I may have seen 6 come thru the shop with this issue.

 

[SailorMac]

Thanks guys. This gives me a few things to check. The fuse box short issue is very interesting because first the rear wiper went, then all the lock mechs (except the tailgate). Now sometimes this trouble with starting.

 

[listerdiesel]

The fuel pump only energises for 2 seconds or so to prime the system, then it is turned off until the engine starts.

Peter

 

[SailorMac]

Fuse Blocks?

Ok so started checking with a test bulb at the engine fuse block. Fuel pump fuse was Ok, but at fuses 1 (fuel injectors) and 2 (engine management) couldn't get the bulb to light. Fuses appear to be good, but no continuity; checked under the fuse too where fuse plugs into the block) at key positions off, postion II and postion III (cranking) too and found no power.

Started checking the interior fuse box and have no continuity to rear wiper motor (engine coil fuse was ok). Starter motor fuse was strange though, no continuity even when cranking the starter, but the starter is cranking. Alternator circuit was showing continuity when cranking the starter.

Does this sound like bad fuse blocks? Or something else?

 

[SailorMac]

So I check for spark it looked Ok. But still apparently not getting enough fuel, so I pumped throttle manually a bunch of times and gave it throttle while cranking and it started. Once running fuse 1 and fuse 2 are Ok and light with test light. Going to try to check fuel pressure next.

 

[p m]

So I check for spark it looked Ok. But still apparently not getting enough fuel, so I pumped throttle manually a bunch of times and gave it throttle while cranking and it started. Once running fuse 1 and fuse 2 are Ok and light with test light. Going to try to check fuel pressure next.

Pumping throttle manually does not do a thing on a fuel-injected vehicle.

 

[SailorMac]

Fuse 1 & 2 have power now...

So now after starting it and then shutting it off I checked fuse 1 & 2 in ignition postion II and both have power. I am so confused...

 

[carlosz]

just for giggles get a used fuse box as a known good test unit... that way you have a baseline on which to compare values...

 

[SailorMac]

Looks like it's a security system issue, not a bad CKPS. Since the driver's door latch is the only one working on central locking, we have to be careful with opening the passenger door before starting the engine. Happened at the grocery store yesterday. Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock with the key fob reset it. Then got home and was able to replicate the door opening/closing/locking sequence and was able to replicate it the garage a few times. Waiting the 5 minutes with all the doors closed reset it too. Now I think that my fiddling under the hood had no effect previously, it must have just been the 5 minute "time out."

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Think I'll sell my almost new CKPS since it wasn't the problem.

 

[SailorMac]

BTW, now after studying the Workshop Manual closer, I don't think the sensor could have been fried in this manner. It has no voltage in, only a voltage output.