Clicking noise while coasting

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
Update - Clicking noise while coasting

97 DI - 120,000 miles - ome lift - 245/75/16 tires

There is a clicking nose that is relative to speed coming from the rear of my truck. It only happens when I am above 25 mph and coasting. Once I get above 25 mph, If I continue to accelerate, or keep a constant speed there is no noise. When I let off the gas and begin to coast, the noise starts. The noise only stops once I am below 25 mph. Braking does not affect the noise at all. No vibrations. What do you think?

Thanks
 
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barefoot

Guest
first....check that the flange bolts are damn tight on the rear drive shaft. take a look at the u-joints really good with a flashlight! if nothing obvious, lock the cdl, remove the rear shaft and drive.

could be something in the diff but look at other stuff first.

enjoy!
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
I somewhat tightened the flange bolts and test drove it - the noise is quieter. At the moment, it appears this was the problem. I am about to get under there and really tighten everything and inspect it all. Thanks
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
The bolts are as tight as it gets. I greased the u joints as well. The noise is still there - quiet but still there. It looks like I need new u joints.
 
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barefoot

Guest
if you have some miles on the truck and havent replaced the joints before....i would do so. however, dont be surprised if the noise is still there! short of pulling the diff and looking at the internals....there really isnt a good way of crossing it off the list as it does not function the same with the shaft removed.

do remove the shaft first though....that way you can r/o brakes, wheel bearings and axle issues. i cant really think of anything in the diff that would cause those symptoms. spider gears will clunk when on the throttle and worsen when turning. most everything else in the diff will whine, whirr or grind.

im banking on the joints.

enjoy!
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
yeah, ordered u joints from Rovers North today - only 16 bucks. Even if it doesn't fix the noise, I still need to replace them.
 

Bennett

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2007
63
0
Tallahassee, FL
Let me know if replacing the U joints helps. I've heard the same noise, I think, for the last few months. does yours go away if you let completely off the gas? mine will go away if a let completely off the gas, but if I'm coasting, or decelerating with the foot still on the gas, the clicking/clanking is very audible from what sounds to be the right rear. The noise goes away when I resume accelerating or take my foot completely off the gas.
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
Bennett said:
Let me know if replacing the U joints helps. I've heard the same noise, I think, for the last few months. does yours go away if you let completely off the gas? mine will go away if a let completely off the gas, but if I'm coasting, or decelerating with the foot still on the gas, the clicking/clanking is very audible from what sounds to be the right rear. The noise goes away when I resume accelerating or take my foot completely off the gas.

It only happens when I am not on the gas. Once I press the pedal, it cuts out. I first thought it was the rear left wheel. I removed, cleaned, and inspected it. Found nothing - the noise continued. It then began to sound like the rear right wheel. I followed the same proceedure with it. No luck. Now it just sounds like its in the rear - not any specific side. Hopefully this will fix the noise.
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
Replaced the u joints today and the noise is still there. I haven't balanced/rotated the wheels and tires in a while. Hopefully that will fix it. Any ideas?
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
I balanced and rotated the tires, that didn't fix it. I am now looking at wheel bearings. Can I check these myself? What should I look for? Thanks
 
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barefoot

Guest
jack the tire up, grab it at opposite sides and shake. look for side to side play.
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
barefoot said:
jack the tire up, grab it at opposite sides and shake. look for side to side play.

I checked this today, there was no play. I am now done with finals and back home where I can really look into this. I am going to check the brakes again tomorrow. Is there anything else I should check or look for? Its been a week after I had the tires balanced and rotated and the noise does seem to have gotten quieter and less frequent. However, now when it happens, it is more of a loud hard thump. It seems to only happen at low speeds while coasting as well (20 mph). Any thoughts?
 

vaden87

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2004
417
0
Alabama
Solved the problem this weekend. Went on a ride at Woolys in TN and destroyed the rear diff. The noise was coming from the spider gear. The pin is in 3 pieces, the spider gears are chewed up, the pinion is chewed, the ring looks ok. I'm so glad I got rid of that sound. It was so annoying.

chunk.jpg

rear diff.jpg

spider gear 1.jpg

spider gear 2.jpg

spider gear housing.jpg

spider pin.jpg


Anyway, I feel a possible upgrade in the next few days. I currently have 245/75 with 3.54 gears - complete driveline is stock. I would like to install ARB lockers in the front and rear. I am thinking about going ahead and installing an ARB in the rear since it needs replacing and keep everything else the same for the time being. I have been searching dweb to get a little info on lockers. It looks like it is recommended to install HD axels as well. Since I am only running 245/75 and stock gearing, is this really necessary? Is there any reason why I should not go ahead and put a locker in the rear?
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,745
1,026
Northern Illinois
I think your parking brake might be too tight. Sounds crazy I know. I've seen a few trucks do it and most of the time it was defenders. It's covered in some old TSB. The park brake dragging can set up some really strange drivetrain binding. I think you hear the diffs clacking cause with no load your bouncing accross whatever gear lash you have.
 

davidb516

Member
Apr 12, 2011
15
0
Rockville Centre, NY
This makes sense because the park brake light comes on now and again while I’m driving. I thought it was unrelated but perhaps not. Also I noticed this morning that it only started happening when the car warmed up.

Thanks for the advice. I’m going to mention it to my mechanic and will post what he says/does. Thanks again!
 

davidb516

Member
Apr 12, 2011
15
0
Rockville Centre, NY
So my mechanic replaced the drive shaft. Seems the noise was coming from a broken part in one of the joints which could only be purchased with the whole assembly. Brake light was unrelated - had to grease something and it was fine. $888 parts and labor. A least it’s running well now. Thanks again for input.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,767
567
Seattle
Yikes. Local ad on craigslist is showing a complete D2 front drive shaft for $25. Add another $100 max for the parts to rebuild it. Depends on your priorities - I am about to pay a mechanic to do a job I could handle myself, only I don't have the time or space to deal with it.