column lock...classic issue?

[rufus]

UPDATE: column lock/ ignition switch problems?

I just want to verify before I go tearing into things blindly. My key is stuck in the ignition and the starter will not disengage once I have started it. From my knowledge, this would be the ingnition, column lock, put in park kind of thing. I am I right? Does this make any sence? The real funny part, I just put it up for sale and have three or four folks coming to look...DOH!

Thanks ya'll for any help

Norman

 

[rufus]

UPDATE: If I dissconnect the battery, the key comes out. However, reconnect the power and the key and the starter get stuck again.

 

[RichardS]

What year? Disco I or II? Ideas below based on my Disco I:

There is a solenoid mechanism inside the lock that moves based on the transmission being in Park or not. I bet either the wiring or the mechanism is messed up causing the problems you describe.

If you are adventurous you can drill out the pins on the assembly and take it apart, I did that and removed the transmission interlock and the steering colum lock on mine in order to avoid just this type of problem.

In your case you might get away with just disconnecting the wires for the transmission interlock, seems like that would remove power from the solenoid and allow you to turn the key freely. But without seeing it I'm not sure that will fix your problem.

You could also just get a new lock assembly but they are pretty pricey and then you have the issue of your doors, gas cap, and ignition not matching. Unless you can order a now lock using your existing key code, not sure if that is possible.

 

[rufus]

I guess it might also help to check the starter relay...where the heck is that located?

 

[rufus]

RichardS...which wires are to the transmission interlock? I had all this on the computer (shop manual) but the file is corrupt. I should probably try that first. My other concern is the starter still spinning once it's fired up and running. Could it be the whole think is taking a dump on me? Expesive or not, if it needs replacing, I have to. I am not worried about having an extra key just for the ignition.

Can someone post up the diagrams on this thing?

 

[rufus]

ok, i unplugged a two pin connector just below the lock cyliner and it gave me my key back while the batter was connected. Now, I just can't get the starter to quit spinning... I really would like to fix this without ordering a part out of houston.

 

[parthog]

If the solenoid and the starter are misbehaving, concurrent failure, I'd try un-plugging the ignition switch while the starter is spinning and see if the starter drops out and the key releases. If not, you have issues elsewhere, a short or open ground. Check the engine ground strap (or add one) always a good place to start also.

Repeat: "It's always the ground, it's always the ground, ..." Works for many compound electrical failures.

- Jeff Miller

 

[rufus]

Ok, how do i get the harness out of the ingnition lock/cyliner? Its a round body and I don't see any tangs holding it in...possibly those two tiny silver screws that a miniature man could not get too?

 

[rufus]

By the way, I have been trying to knock out the "brake away" bolts that hold the ignition switch to the column, but they are'nt budging. Do I need to get that out before I can D/C the harness?

The the ignition switch is on the fritz, I am going to make this thing push button start... I've got ingnition power and the key comes out (and the column lock works). I just need to get the short out from going to the starter.

 

[billb]

1) to remove the lock cylinder - just tap the headless bolts with a small cold chisel - they will unscrew easily if tapped counterclockwise.

2) Yes - those twp small philips screws hold the electric switch into the cylinder.

Bill

 

[rufus]

bill, thanks for the tip. I have the switch out. Now I just have to figure out if it is in fact the ignition (electric) switch leaving the starter hot. All wires are hot in the RUN position and the printed white wire (red stripe) momentarily goes hot when you bump it to START. It does not stay hot once brought back to RUN. However, the starter is still in there wizzing away while it runs. Could it still be the ignition switch or should I start trouble shooting other areas?

 

[rufus]

TOP... I need help with this pronto if anyone has the time to look this up or is knows enough to help. Could it be the starter?

 

[parthog]

It could be the starter, somewhat common failure mode.

Unplug the ignition switch and see if the starter drops out. If not, the switch is not the problem.

- Jeff Miller

 

[rufus]

The whole truck dies when I unplug the switch. I have been chasing my tail here. I just tested the voltage to the small wire going to starter (solidoid switch wire) and it's cold when it needs to be and momentarily hot when the key is turned to start. If it were constant on the switch would have the issues not the starter. I don't know why I did not do this in the first place. My damn chevy truck did the same thing and guess what...the first thing I did was replace the starter. Blamo, it worked. Now I need send the switch back and get a starter...shit...but I found one in only an hour away.

 

[mnwolftrack]

Now, I just can't get the starter to quit spinning...

My '95 D1's ignition assembly was "sticky" despite being fairly new. When you turned the key to start the engine, the key would not rotate back on it's own to let the starter shut off. If I started the truck, I got into the habit of twisting the key back slightly (at least until I shot some WD-40 in the cylinder and worked it smooth again). Perhaps it will be as simple as that for you.