coolant leak behind water pump

[ticktock]

Today, I swapped my water pump hoping to get rid of a BAD coolant leak coming from the engine on the vehicles left hand side in front of the engine. Once I was done, it started leaking after a few minutes at idle. I'm pretty sure it's the timing chain cover gasket. While I was removing the bolts for the water pump I noticed a steady stream of coolant leaking out of right most lower bolt. That did not look right. So I think my leak is there somewhere. See the attachment. Unfortunately for me I see the timing chain cover gasket has 2 water jackets passing through it so I'm screwed. Can anyone think of a quick fix that might get me through this New England winter?
I'm thinking JB-Weld or K-Seal. Is there anything else you'd recommend I try first?

 

[lrcb40]

How old/many miles? Could it be the valley gasket leaking with the leak path being down the front of the engine?

The valley gasket has a tendency to rot out and go leaky. My RRC leaked at the front, the D1 at the back of the engine. You can tell from inspecting the gasket under the intake manifold and by the front clamp. It's a fairly cheap/easy job to do.

 

[ticktock]

2002 w/120k miles. Valley gasket, not sure where that is, where is the front clamp? My pic shows a pretty distinct start to the coolant leak. If this is a valley gasket problem, would the leak get behind the water pump and out in the area I noted in the pic? Would coolant be pooling up in that half circle in the timing gasket until it found a way out? Who sells a valley gasket?
I do know where to get jb-weld or k-seal.

 

[Agent]

Judging by the pic, it looks like the timing chain cover is leaking from the left hand "port" (or what ever its called) that runs from the coolant pump into the into the block. I wish I could offer advise other than the stock answer of replace the gasket, but thats the best bet.

 

[92rrrandall]

Four of the screws used to hold the water pump onto the engine are really long. Those four long screws go thru the engine block and come into contact with the coolant passages in the block. You have to use RTV type sealant on the threads of these four bolts to prevent coolant from seeping out of the block after everything is tightened down. Whatever coolant is in the four clearance holes right now will still leak out after you are done applying sealant to the threads. If a larger amount of coolant continues to leak out, then you must replace the front cover gasket to stop the leak.

Randall

 

[benlittle]

It would only take a few hours in a garage to button that up correctly.

 

[ticktock]

It would only take a few hours in a garage to button that up correctly.

Yea - I'm going to visit pops and his heated garage in a few days. I'll bring a new gasket with me and do it there. Have you done one before? Looks like the crank pulley needs to come off and a few other things. I read somewhere that a few oil pan bolts had to come out too. I'd hate to have a few hours turn into a full day or two by not having the right parts available.

One more question, will I absolutely have to redo the water pump gasket? It seems to me the pump can stay on with at least half a dozen bolts left in it.

 

[lrcb40]

2002 w/120k miles. Valley gasket, not sure where that is, where is the front clamp? My pic shows a pretty distinct start to the coolant leak. If this is a valley gasket problem, would the leak get behind the water pump and out in the area I noted in the pic? Would coolant be pooling up in that half circle in the timing gasket until it found a way out? Who sells a valley gasket?
I do know where to get jb-weld or k-seal.

Valley gasket looks like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-V8-COMP...temQQimsxZ20090110?IMSfp=TL090110116002r29146

Since the leak path is from the top of the engine it can make it look like it is from the pump. It depends on how dirty the engine is etc. If you're going to do the other gaskets, the chances are the valley needs doing too. It's pretty simple to do, just watch out you don't turn down/fold the back 'ears around the intake at the back when you drop the manifold back on.....

 

[ticktock]

Removing Timing Chain Cover on a Disco II 4.0 is not easy. I got the crank shaft bolt off, that's a piece of cake, the crankshaft pulley no problem, the oil pan? wtf! I just read this: http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f40/how-removed-timing-cover-4-0-a-25124/
Now I realize I must drop the oil pan (aka sump) to get the cover off, obviously I was trying to avoid that. When I undid the "bolts" on the front of the oil pan only to discover they were nuts on studs I knew this wasn't going to go as planned. I'll get up tomorrow AM and contemplate doing that job after a nice hot cup of coffee. If it isn't balls cold outside, maybe just maybe I'll do it "right", but right now I'm leaning toward buttoning up the job and pooring in that sweet smelling k-seal I just got in from chemical valley NJ and crossing my fingers.