I understand it's a well-beaten horse. And i have looked online before asking. I had a recent headgasket replacement done on my '02 Disco. I've tried everything I can think of to bleed the air and still have the "waterfall" noise in the dash. After the HG replacement drove it with no issues until the following day when the temp jumed quickly after about 15 minutes of driving. The oil is clean (no milky coloring), nothing from exhaust, and I did the block chemical test with nothing evident. Any tips or tricks on troublesome issues getting the air out would be helpful.
Cooling System Headache
- Thread starter RoverX1325
- Start date
How many times have you "burped" the system? It would usually take two or three tries for my '01 to get all of the air put.
With the cap off the coolant reservoir you should see a stream of coolant shooting down into the coolant reservoir . Thats the hole the air will leave your cooling system thru and if the cap is on the reservoir you will not get the air out. You can lift the reservoir out of its mounting bracket and move it higher, but just running it with the cap off for a while does it usually. Once the stream of coolant is there you should have all the air out.
Have you checked your radiator? After replacing my head gaskets it occurred to me to find the cause of the (previous owner's - of course) overheating. The radiator was old and crusty, so I replaced that (in addition to hoses and t-stat) and now temps are consistently comfortable. If you fix the head gaskets but not the problem that creates hot conditions then you may be repeating the head gasket job again. This is not to suggest the radiator is causing your air bleed issue, but it may be something you can proactively address before it causes more expensive problems.
Lift the reservoir up about 6 inches. Open the bleed screw then pour coolant into the reservoir until it comes out the bleed screw. Close the bleed screw, return reservoir to it's normal mounting position. Run the truck with the heater on high for 20-30 minutes. Let it cool down for a couple hours or overnight then check the coolant level.
This is pretty close to what the manual says, I've had good luck following this procedure. If you are still having troubles you might want to look into the radiator.
This is pretty close to what the manual says, I've had good luck following this procedure. If you are still having troubles you might want to look into the radiator.
I replaced all of the hoses at the same time as the HG job. The thermostat is only about a year old, not that it means anything. The radiator was replaced about 5 years ago. Again not saying it isn't bad. I tried the elevated approach and the rave suggestion and have the same outcome. I had read somewhere that air can be trapped at the heater core or in some cases air can be expelled by disconnecting the hose to the thermostat.
As far as the "burping" of the system. I've read a few different ways to accomplish it. Is there a preference on how to do it?
As far as the "burping" of the system. I've read a few different ways to accomplish it. Is there a preference on how to do it?
Take it back to the shop and have them vacuum bleed it.
If it doesn't hold vacuum then it should be pressure tested.
Don't waste your time before having it vacuum bled.
If it doesn't hold vacuum then it should be pressure tested.
Don't waste your time before having it vacuum bled.
vacuum bleeding is good, probably the best method. or go to a tool store like harbor freight, and get a spill free funnel. the coolant level will be way above the bleed valve and should work well. of course i did all this and i still have the rushing water sound in my dash. i can live with it for a while. i did read some stuff about the sunroof drains and where the water funnels down through the body. there is a pinch seam under the truck and if you hammer a screwdriver in it and open it up more, some guys got tons of water falling out. good luck
seventyfive said:
A vacuum bleeder is a great tool to have, worth every nickle in time saved with regard to bleeding and diagnosis in Discovery engines, as well as any modern, difficult to bleed engine.
Just last weekend I replaced the timing belt & water pump on my XC 70. Filling & bleeding the cooling system took at most five minutes using my vacuum bleeder.
I'm going to have to locate one around here asap then. I have to get the Disco back on the road it's really saddening to see it sit in the driveway. Any brands to look at that are better in quality than others?
I was looking to rent one from one of the local parts stores,however, it doesn't seem as if any carry them.
While I'm waiting for a vacuum bleeder I have been doing more research. In regards to the swapping the heater hoses that seems to have worked for many, do they get swapped to blow the possible air pocket out and then back or swapped and left? I've had my Disco for 7 years now and torn know it better than my actual project car and this hose swapping thing is new to me.
I've never had an issue bleeding the coolant on either of my D2. I kept getting the water sloshing sound on my D1, but it was always low when I checked it. Turns out I had a slow leak. Once I fixed that, no more sound.
I'm wondering if people that have so much trouble bleeding really have a partially plugged heater matrix or radiator.
I'm wondering if people that have so much trouble bleeding really have a partially plugged heater matrix or radiator.
will you guys just let him figure one thing out at a time???????
vacuum bleed.
IF system does not hold vacuum, THEN pressure test.
vacuum bleed.
IF system does not hold vacuum, THEN pressure test.
No sunroof so it isn't those drains. Checked the ac drains and everything else that makes water come out from the cab. Nothing. I've finally located a vacuum bleeder and hope to get to it on my next day off this week.
Update on the issue. Used the bleeder and I stI'll have the noise in the dash. No apparent signs of headgasket issue. Still.