Correct track rod and drag link torque values

Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
I'm getting conflicting torque values from rave for the track rod and drag link:

Page 06-15: Track rod and drag link 80 Nm (59 lbf.ft)

Page 60-31 point 6: Fit track rod and drag link nuts and
tighten to 80 Nm (59 lbf.ft).

Page 60-38 point 7: Fit track rod to steering knuckle and secure with
nut, tighten to 125 Nm (92 lbf.ft).

Do I go with the lower value, the higher value or the average of the 2 ;)
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
Bosbefok said:
I'm getting conflicting torque values from rave for the track rod and drag link:



Page 60-38 point 7: Fit track rod to steering knuckle and secure with
nut, tighten to 125 Nm (92 lbf.ft).

Do I go with the lower value, the higher value or the average of the 2 ;)

Im not sure where you are getting this. My Rave says:

5. Fit trackrod to steering knuckle and tighten nut
to 80 Nm (59 lbf.in).
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,642
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
I'm not sure I'd trust nylocks for TREs, especially since most of them are Grade 2. A castellated nut could be much more f'n tight (which is my personal reference as well).
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
The last TRE I bought was greasble and came with a nylock. I wasn't too thrilled to see that but I guess its all the rage now.
Ive got four new TRE's arriving tomorrow so I guess I'll see what comes on those.
 
Last edited:

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
I prefer nylocs and with a little red loc-tite.. I hate how I can never get the castle nut to turn just a cunt hair more to fit the cotter pin. Then I always have to back off, to me that's not effin tight. I over tighten everything though.. Who cares what grade any of it is? If the nut pr the stud breaks your screwed.
 

Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
Most of the suspension nuts are nylock on my '03... that's the way it came.
I had to stand on my 26" breaker bar to crack the radius arm nuts loose, so there's no way they will undo themselves. One should replace nylocks after removing them, I think the distrust comes from reusing old nuts.
 

listerdiesel

Well-known member
Drag link to drop arm - 59lb ft
Track Rod to Steering Knuckle - 92 lb ft.

Taken off the Steering section of the Torque Wrench Settings Section in RAVE:

Disco2SteeringTorque.jpg


Peter
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
p m said:
I'm not sure I'd trust nylocks for TREs, especially since most of them are Grade 2. A castellated nut could be much more f'n tight (which is my personal reference as well).

Land Rover uses nyloc on all steering and a lot of suspension nuts now.
 

Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
listerdiesel said:
Drag link to drop arm - 59lb ft
Track Rod to Steering Knuckle - 92 lb ft.

Peter
I'm talking about the track rod to steering knuckle and the drag link to steering knuckle ends.

Check under the front suspension torque values, what does that give for the track rod and drag link?
 

DiscoBlanco

Well-known member
Oct 15, 2011
122
0
United States
FWIW All the BMW's I have owned have always had nylon nuts or metal locking nuts. I prefer the metal ones myself but they seem to be out of style...

Nylon nuts are good... They have never backed out on me... Ever. They can be a bitch to get off if the end of the bolt has any kind of rust or grime on it. Heat usually works when you an melt all the nylon away.