Could someone please explain the string method for measuring/adusting toe?

[JSQ]

I think I've got this down but I want to confirm that the way I'm measuring is giving me an accurate gauge.
Could someone please describe a step by step for making the adjustment?
Also, do you prefer a little toe out/in or straight on?

thanks.

 

[nosivad_bor]

i have an old rovers north article on using this methode. I'll scan it when i get home in about an hour.

You want a little toe out on the lifted truck to compensate for the wondering/castor issue.

rob

 

[JSQ]

thanks.

that'd be great.

 

[bri]

I have used the string method, but did not find it that accurate, for a number of reasons, one is tire tread and how the string is placed.

Now I have 3 pieces of threaded rod with hex couplers I used teflon tape to hold the couplers snug. You can hold it up to the rear and then the front of the wheel and easily check toe on the wheel, tire or where ever, I use the wheel.

Sorry for not giveing you a direct answer to your question.

 

[JSQ]

well, if i may be so obtuse, how do you measure the toe with your magic wand exactly?

curious.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

tie a string around a finger to remind you to go get the toe in set buy a alignment guy

 

[BradN]

check out this site. http://www.sf.hiof.no/~frodehaa/disco.html
Click on teh sterring link located on the left side of the page.

Otto is your man.

 

[Jaime]

A few weeks ago, I installed my new heavy duty solid steel track rod from DAP, and needed to adjust the wheel alignment. I already had the wheels off (changing to street tires) and the truck on jack stands, and needed to set the wheel alignment.

The only adjustment that is easily made for D1s (I don't know shit about D2s) wheel alignment is to adjust the track rod (the one behind the axle) by turning it to change the toein-toeout angle. On D1s, the angle should be 0 degrees.

So I took 2 3ft. pieces of angle iron I had laying around and clamped one to the bottom of each hub so that 1/2 the length of the angle was to the front, and half to the rear.

This made it really convenient to be on one side of the truck turning the track rod, and measuring the distance between the ends of the angle irons, until the front and back side-to-side measurements were equal. This gives a setting of 0 degrees.

 

[bri]

Mine D1 drives much better with some toe out. The service manual says 0-2mm.

I made my aligner from shorter threaded rod, three pieces that can be coupled and placed in my tool box in case I bend/break a trackrod on the trail.

 

[nosivad_bor]

Jack,

I looked high and low I must have thrown out the RN thing.

Rob

 

[Jaime]

Mine D1 drives much better with some toe out. The service manual says 0-2mm.

I made my aligner from shorter threaded rod, three pieces that can be coupled and placed in my tool box in case I bend/break a trackrod on the trail.

Good idea about the threaded rod for on the trail.

The reason I went with the angle irons is that when I tried the threaded rod method, against the wheels, the steering knuckes kept getting in the way so it was hard to get at exactly opposite sides of the wheel.

But since you do have a leeway of a little toe out, it probably doesn't matter.