Cracked Manifold :(

[stevenr]

Anyone replaced their manifold themselves? Looks pretty straight forward... with the exception of lack of work space and the fact that after talking to a LR mechanic that the bolts don't like to come off. He said he even snapped one of the eight.

Kicker is LRNA recalled vehicles in '97 for this manifold and because of this reason. However, I drive a '99 (06/98 build date).

I was just looking to see what others have experienced in this job and if there's anything I should look out for/be aware of.

Thanks,
-Steven Ratajczyk

 

[bri]

Exactly what happened to my 95 after 100k miles.

I did not have a problem with breaking any bolts. However the nuts on the down pipewere not reusable. Clearance is the only hassle. See if you can get the bolts online for cheap before you do it since LR will gouge you for them. Or just call LR and see, if they want to charge you >$3 per bolt get them elsewhere. Likely if you shopped around, you co9uld find an equivelent, but it might be easiest to just get before hadn.

You will need gasket for manifold to block and manifold to downtube.

Brian

 

[stevenr]

Thanks Brian.

I was looking at the Rovers North Cat. and saw that I'll need 4 gaskets plus the gasket at the Y-pipe. I'll probably end up just buying the 8 bolts for the manifold to block and the 2 studs for manifold to Y-pipe. Just to be safe.

 

[bri]

I got the manifold from Will Tillery. Might wish to check prices with him. Used are cheap too.

4? I dont remember that. I thought it was 2 for the manifold and 1 for the down pipe.

 

[stevenr]

4? I dont remember that. I thought it was 2 for the manifold and 1 for the down pipe.

That's what I see available in Rovers North Catalog, but like you say, while looking at mine I see 2. Makes no difference.

-Steven

 

[bri]

British Pacific sold me only what I needed.

 

[Jaime]

My wife's trck has the same crack.

Could a crack like that be brazed without removing the exhaust manifold?

I just started getting into welding, and boutght a small oxyacetylene torch, so I don't really know what I'm doing yet.

 

[stevenr]

Brian - How to get hold of Will Tillery?

Jaime - In my opinion, I don't see results from a braze lasting. I could be wrong, but hey, could be worth a try.

 

[Joe Cole]

I just replaced mine and Rovers North sent me four gaskets. My friend and former LR Tech said to get the two from the dealer as it is a better set up. That is what I did, and it went on fine, just as previously stated get new bolts and a couple of extra studs for the down pipe. Good Luck1

 

[bri]

See this thread. below for Will.

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1492

Welding the crack could be done I believe. I have heard of it being done, but do not know how well it would perform or hold up.

 

[Louis Juarez]

I have a "94 Disco that I have done work on both the exaust manifold gaskets and the Y pipe....I am not sure if your "99 Disco has the exact same exaust system parts.
The dissasembly and reassembly was pretty straight forward .
On the manifolds the hardest part for me was to straighten out the locking tabs on the manifold bolts. There are two manifold gaskets per side...$17 ea. at LR of Honolulu , and the manifold to Y pipe has a 1 gasket per side....$12 ea.
My manifold to Y pipe is connected by 3 bolts on each side.
About 2 months ago the flange on the Y pipe cracked (passenger side)..and I took it to a muffler shop that did a good job of welding it...$40 and it is holding up well ever since.
A new Y pipe with Cats is about $700 from Atlantic British..before shipping.
When removing bolts and nuts , use a penetrant , let it soak and loosen a little, reapply penetrant, retighten again , respray, tap bolt/nut a bit, and loosen again...nice and easy each time...patience and good luck..

 

[Cadaver]

I just washed my hands from doing this very same project. I got a used manifold from a guy on ebaymotors for $40 shipped. It will probably crack shortly. I couldnt aford plopping for a new one. I got the two manifold gaskets, a collector gasket, and 3 manifold studs/bolts from Nathan at Discount Rovers for about $44. And it was at my door the next day. (Nathan is the go to guy in my book for LR parts). This afternoon I went out and did the swap. Very straightforward, easy task. Removed the front O2 sensor, remove the collector stud bolts, removed the intake tube, removed the front spark plug wire, removed the bolts and wiggled it up and out through the engine bay. Replacement went in reversing the procedure. Be sure to put a dab of anti-seize on the exhaust bolts and dont over tighten. Be careful not to cross thread and screw up the aluminum heads. I started with the center top bolt and just snugged it to where the manifold met the head. Then, working in a circular partern snugged the remaining bolts. Went back and torqued, again in circular pattern. truck sound soooo much better. The old manifold had nearly split into two pieces. This project took less than an hour to complete. I would expect the passenger side to be much easier. This job was darn right a joy compared to installing headers on a late 60s Pontiac. You basically need a skin graft on your nuckles from one of those jobs. Not to mention you spit cuss words like crazy.

 

[Jaime]

Man, that's great that it went so smooth for you. I hate working on exhaust systems. Everything is always rustry, I always break a nut or stud, and have to drill studs out, and wind up with a rust dust in my eyes!

 

[Cadaver]

Usually I break a bolt, but surprisingly it went smooth. You may want to hit the ypipe bolts with some lubricant. I used a 1/2 in drive and had decent leverage. I let the engine warm for about 1-2 minutes to get the aluminum heads warm. The aluminum heads will cool quicker than the cast exhaust manifolds. I think this may have helped get the exhaust bolts out of the heads a bit more easily than had it been cold. Not for sure. I used a 20 Nm torque on the bolts using antiseize. If you dont run into any stubborn bolts, it should be a quick and painless job. Good Luck

 

[stevenr]

Thanks everyone. I'm feeling a litle more confident now. One last thing: what tork setting is reccomended for the manifold to head bolts?

Thanks again for all the input and help.

-Steven

 

[stevenr]

I used a 20 Nm torque on the bolts using antiseize.

John-

I'm an idiot. Nix that last question of mine.

 

[Louis Juarez]

The workshop manual calls for ...20 nm = 15 ft. lbs.

 

[Steve83]

I've never had a manifold bolt break, but the downpipe studs strip if you look at them crosswise. And there are 3 of them...

Have you called the dealer to find out if yours is covered by the recall? It's worth a phone call to find out. They're expanding that recall, so you might get it done free.

 

[stevenr]

Steve-

Yea, I did check with LRNA and it was a no go. But you're right, they did extend the recall and I still don't fall within the "timeline".

I just purchased the manifold & gaskets from Will Tillery for a great price. It turned out to be about a $125 saving from buying from the dealership. Just need to get the studs & tabs from either Brit Pac or Rovers North.

-Steven