cruise control delete

disco_drum

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2006
1,997
16
41
Woodstock, GA
01 D2 trail truck. Is it possible to delete the cruise control stuff or would it cause vacuum issues? If it is possible, what all needs to be done?
 

kris812

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2014
268
94
Tucson AZ
Yes, very easy. It's actually a separate system from the intake/motor. There's a vacuum pump near the intake, a line to throttle plunger, and a line inside to the brake switch cut-off. Also a tiny ECM not worth removing to save the weight behind the glovebox.

At least on my D1 pretty sure D2 is the same.

If the plunger is leaking, put a condom over it, it'll work for few days to a year. 120$ little bugger I finally ordered
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
767
95
Suffolkshire, UK
There is an electric Cruise Control module that can be disconnected. It’s located in the left side lower kick panel. on the driver’s side.
 

mlnnc

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
268
32
Charlotte
Why do you want to delete it? If you don't use it, it can't cause any problems. It's benign.

But to answer your question directly, removing it won't cause any vac-related engine management problems.
 

disco_drum

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2006
1,997
16
41
Woodstock, GA
I want to delete it to open up more room in the engine bay. That bracket on the passenger side takes up more space than necessary. I run "far from stock" shock towers and i have relocated my coolant tank so any extra space under the hood is worth it.
 

mlnnc

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
268
32
Charlotte
?
Does the c.c. work off the engine vacuum in a D2?
No. I think rovercanus is thinking of a DI. On the DII the there is a vac pump that is part of the cruise control assembly. The short hose from the integral pump goes a few inches to the actuator only.

The cruise control in my truck was failed a year ago or so. It still worked after it began to fail, but it was increasingly weak until it stopped working completely. I knew the problem was either the pump or the actuator (they're actually separate parts, but mounted together).

My mantra is diagnose, diagnose, diagnose, but I couldn't find info about how to test the pump. So I flipped a coin and ordered a new, replacement actuator ($125), thinking also that the diaphragm in the actuator may have deteriorated with age. Didn't solve the problem. New, replacement pumps are $$$, so I decided to roll the dice again with a used pump off a DII at a local boneyard ($35 at LKQ). Problem solved.

I say all this because you may wanted to try selling your CC assembly to someone having the same problem as I had instead of just trashing it.
 

kris812

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2014
268
94
Tucson AZ
If anyone wants to Diagnose or fix their cruise controls, I suggest you look at this link.

 
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LRDONE

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2020
340
119
Michigan
If anyone wants to Diagnose or fix their cruise controls, I suggest you look at this link.

Or put a D2 module in the D1. That's what I did. Plenty of write up on it. Gut the old module housing, slide in the d2 unit, splice the wires to the correct position. Looks stock, cost about 30 bucks and never deal with a junky d1 module again.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Or put a D2 module in the D1. That's what I did. Plenty of write up on it. Gut the old module housing, slide in the d2 unit, splice the wires to the correct position. Looks stock, cost about 30 bucks and never deal with a junky d1 module again.
I did the same on my old D1. Time to revisit with the Classics.
 
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