CV Joint

[Spyder]

Hello everyone! I am pretty sure my CV joints are gone. When I make a left turn and accelerate, it starts making a clicking noise. Normally I would go ahead and get it fixed, but I'm short on cash at the moment. Would it be okay to drive it like this for a month without any permanent damage? It just started making the noises a week ago. Also would this be something expensive to fix on a 97 Disco? Thanks for the help.

 

[Snwbord24]

I had a clicking awhile ago when turning (left or right, don't remember), turns out my lug nuts were loose on one of the front wheels.

 

[yo! adrian]

Spyder....I have a brand spankin' new CV joint in the box, never been opened sitting in my garage. I too thought I needed mine replaced, then the clicking went away (?) Go figure. If you're interested, let me know.
-Adrian

 

[Spyder]

Thanks for the replies. I'll check the lug nuts in the morning. Adrian, I'll let you know if that doesn't work. Thanks.

 

[yo! adrian]

Cool. Just drop me a line.

 

[Steve83]

The clicking (if it turns out to be the CV) indicates you already have permanent damage, but it may not be SEVERE yet. If you can't fix it right now, at least refill the knuckle with grease. A one-shot pack from the dealer should be under $20.

 

[Spyder]

Steve, what do you mean by SEVERE? Will something fall off while driving? I sure hope not. I checked the lugs, pretty tight. I'll try the grease, I assume I have to do it myself. Thanks.

 

[Steve83]

I said it might NOT be severe damage to the CVs yet. If you keep driving on worn, dry CVs, they can wear out totally, leaving you with a hub full of metal shavings. Nothing would fall off, but you'd roll to a stop unless you lock the center diff & drive home in 3WD.

You can certainly pay the dealer to put the grease in. It should only cost ~1hr of labor for both.

 

[Spyder]

How hard is it to put in the grease myself, does it require removing anything or is it a slap it on job I can do on my driveway? Also, can I get the grease from a local parts store? Thanks.

 

[Spyder]

Hello everyone, need some help! Where should I put the grease on, is it on those big ball-like things on the inside of the wheels/brakes? Or does someone have a picture of where to grease the knuckles? Thanks for the help!!

 

[Steve Rupp]

There's a 1/2" bolt on the top of the nuckle on the inside where the swivel ball is. I would recommend using the LR swivel ball grease. It is specifically designed for use in CV joints. Very easy. You could probably pick this up at the dealer, but would probably be cheaper here:

https://www.roverparts.com/

http://roversnorth.com/

http://www.discountbritishparts.com/

 

[Spyder]

Thanks Steve, you are the best! I will get the LR grease tomorrow and hopefully it helps a little. The funny thing is that there are no leaks. Anyway, I have nothing to lose except replace the CV if the grease doesn't work. Thanks again.

 

[Steve Rupp]

You won't have leaks with the grease. People get leaks when they replace grease with gear lube.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Adding oil to overcome a clicking sound, hmmm, my guess is damage has been done. It is obvious that not all the damage is done or you would have to lock the center diff to move the truck.
If it were me, I would break it down and inspect and expect to order parts. Good thing is if you do have damage, you can reassemble without CV, lock-in and drive until your new CV arrives. Usually what I fear, downtime since mine is a daily driver.
Oh and BTW, there is no such thing as 3-w-d, so if a CV blows, all power is diverted to the area with least resistance, unlocked that is. Lock-it, and you have 2-w-d is all with a blown CV.
I was several miles offroad when I gernaded my CV. That was a loud drive back to camp to remove what was left, just little bits...
Don't wait or you may be sorry later.
Just my advice.

 

[1st Rover]

CV Joints

If it has water in it, needs an ASAP teardown. Better check that first.

If it is worn, dunno if it'll work on a LR but in "the old days" we used to remove clicking CV joints and switch the right & left side and run 'em another hundred thou rotating the other way.

- Jeff Miller

 

[DiscoJag]

CV Joints - Swivel Pin Housing

Guys,
I changed the gear oil in my swivel pin housings recently. I followed the instructions in the shop manual - Haynes. I believe it is the same housing you are
talking about in this thread. Are you saying this is supposed to be filled with
grease and not gear oil ? I drained the old stuff out of the bottom of the housing
there is a small drain plug and filled it through the upper plug and used what my
shop manual says (80w-90 gear oil, I think). Is that not correct ?
Thanks,
Jim Legge
'96 D1 SD (4.0)

 

[Steve Rupp]

Gear lube is actually a better lubricant than grease. Supposedly, it also keeps the CV cooler. The problem with running oil is that the seals have a tendency to leak. Land Rover actually began running oil in the discos until people in the states complained of the oil leaks on their nice concrete driveways. To solve this problem they went to the grease. My 94 had three plugs on the swivel ball housing. One to fill, one to check level, and one to drain. My 99 only has one on the top to fill with oil. I have oil in mine right now, but when I want to drain, I will have to remove the lower bolt on the stub axle. Kind of a pain, but I figure I'll just service the hubs at the same time.

 

[Sergei]

Eh? There are 2 on 94. One to drain, one to fill. You filling up to the filling hole.. At least thats what manual says

In either case if CV making nasty noise - then its pretty much goner.

However noise can be result of bearings cheaper to fix.

 

[Steve Rupp]

Sergei, you're right. I don't know what I was thinking.

 

[Sergei]

Sergei, are you sure? I could be wrong. I don't have the truck anymore, but I could have sworn that there was one in the middle.

Yep. I remember middle one you talking about (got weird shaped bolt head, angled a bit toward mudshield), but its not for level check.. Its for something else, cant remember what right now.