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Steve83
Guest
The steering stop bolt?Sergei said:
The LR grease is the updated lube because it's better for the CVs.
If you have no leaks, it COULD be because you have NO LUBE inside to leak out!
The LR grease is the updated lube because it's better for the CVs.
If you have no leaks, it COULD be because you have NO LUBE inside to leak out!
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Sergei
Guest
Steering stop angled towards radius arm And its pretty big bolt - as you can see in picture above
And its pretty big bolt - as you can see in picture above
By your description of the sound, "clicking", I would suspect CV. Bearings, easily checked by 12:00 and 6:00 position on tire and check for any play, of course tire is off the ground.
U-joints make all kinds of noise as well, but that "clicking" sound, I hate it.
Have someone walk beside the truck while you drive and see if they can't help isolate the area that is clicking.
I have had Ujtns transfer sound through the hubs, sneaky trucks, where someone had to lay on the ground as I drove slowy past to help pinpoint the origin of the sound.
Very interesting idea about swapping sides, are you sure it was not a Ujnt like domestics use for final drive? Knowing a CV is simply a cage containing some large round bearings balls, can't see reverse rotation having any effect, but that is just my lack of engineering knowledge.
I say yank'em, inspect'em and expect to replace'em.
Got a bone-yard close by, could be cheaper alternative than brand-new.
U-joints make all kinds of noise as well, but that "clicking" sound, I hate it.
Have someone walk beside the truck while you drive and see if they can't help isolate the area that is clicking.
I have had Ujtns transfer sound through the hubs, sneaky trucks, where someone had to lay on the ground as I drove slowy past to help pinpoint the origin of the sound.
Very interesting idea about swapping sides, are you sure it was not a Ujnt like domestics use for final drive? Knowing a CV is simply a cage containing some large round bearings balls, can't see reverse rotation having any effect, but that is just my lack of engineering knowledge.
I say yank'em, inspect'em and expect to replace'em.
Got a bone-yard close by, could be cheaper alternative than brand-new.
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1st Rover
Guest
Swapping sides allows the ball to be pinched between the sockets that only got wear when backing up before. Kind of a "band-aid", works in a pinch but unless I'm really in a pinch, I'd rather replace after all the work of pulling it apart.
- Jeff Miller
- Jeff Miller
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beowulf
Guest
I'm going to be tackling this myself in the near future. So...
Does anyone know if the Haynes mannual ( covers up to '95 ) gives proper u-joint replacement process for a 96 Disco? I have been told that the only real difference is in the engine itself ( I have the 4.0, prior was the 3.9 ), but if someone has first-hand knowledge that would be great before I spend the $ on the book (I've been able to get by with borrowing a copy of the Service Mannual in the past but that's not an option for the near future ).
Does anyone know if the Haynes mannual ( covers up to '95 ) gives proper u-joint replacement process for a 96 Disco? I have been told that the only real difference is in the engine itself ( I have the 4.0, prior was the 3.9 ), but if someone has first-hand knowledge that would be great before I spend the $ on the book (I've been able to get by with borrowing a copy of the Service Mannual in the past but that's not an option for the near future ).
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Sergei
Guest
beowulf said:
You may be meant CV joint? There is good article with pictures on d-90.com about it, if remember correctly.
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beowulf
Guest
D'oh! Yeah, I meant CV...that's what I get for DWebing during a conference call at work.
So, uh...does anyone know if the CV joint replacement in the Haynes manual ( up to '95 ) is valid for a '96 ??
So, uh...does anyone know if the CV joint replacement in the Haynes manual ( up to '95 ) is valid for a '96 ??